Edzup Ezzer

Well it flies! Just changed the plugs and took it out for a quick blast and it was the plugs that cured the misfire. It revved all the way round to 7000rpm without a hiccup. It's been that long getting to this stage that I'd forgotten just how fast one of these things is. So thanks to Blatchat it's sorted. Andrew H, do you have a part number for platinum tipped plugs in case I want to give them a try? Ezzer

I'm told my new plugs have arrived and I'm very keen to try them this evening. One question I hope somebody will confirm for me. I am assuming the gap should be set to the norm, ie good old 40 thou (1 mm) but did I read somewhere (and can't find it now) that the gap should be something like 0.8mm? So what gap should I set them to please? Fingers crossed these resistive plugs are the answer to my misfire - please please please! Ezzer

Having read Oily's post (#20) I Googled resistive plugs and wasted spark and came across quite a bit of stuff (mostly on Pistonheads) which backs up that theory, amongst a lot of other stuff. Anyway, I am away for a few days now but will be ordering some NGK ​BCPR7ES plugs to try on my return. I can't wait. Ezzer

John - Ditto! I think there's a long list of people who'd support that. Ezzer

David, Andrew, In my conversion from EU2 to EU3 (it wasn't religious) I fitted new plug top coil packs, HT leads, injectors and lambda sensor. I didn't change the plugs but will do so as they were fairly new and I wasn't aware that might be an issue. So for the sake of a few quid I'll get some NGK ​BCPR7ES plugs and try those (I am led to believe that they are the 'correct' plugs). I can't remember what the last set of plugs fitted were (my phone has 'lost' my 'oh so useful' page of notes on all things to do with my Seven. That is so annoying and frustrating, I can't tell you!! ) but I'm sure they were 'EU2' compatible plugs, and certainly worked ok. Never had a misfire before. And I'm still curious why resistive plugs should make a difference but if they work then hey, I'll be so happy! Ezzer

Hi Oily, The injectors are new and correct. I’m still chasing the misfire and I thought I'd found it (a loose plug lead) but no, it's still misfiring badly so I'm thinking of trying new plugs. Looking to identify the correct plug type and reading some old threads on here I came across your comment (#3) "They are resistive as the engine is wasted spark" and I am curious as to what that is about. I've not seen that mentioned in any of the other pages I've read elsewhere on the web so perhaps you could please enlighten me why wasted spark ignition and resistive plugs go together? Ezzer

Hi Oily, I'm confident they are the right ones for several reasons, not least, because I believe there are detail differences between EU3 and EU2 injectors that make it difficult to fit the wrong ones. Nonetheless I'll check when I get home to make sure. From memory, they match your description. Ezzer

Hi Andrew, Just checked my order history at Rimmer Bros and I ordered MJY100640 which I believed to be the correct ones. I didn't trust the injectors from my donor engine for obvious reasons, likewise the plugtop coils. I figured new parts would remove any doubts should I run into this sort of problem. Regards Ezzer

Richard, Mark Stacey (K-Maps) checked all the inputs with his laptop whilst we were trying to diagnose a significant problem (no live feed to the fuel pump) with the conversion from EU2 to EU3 (which turned out to be because I fitted an EU3 spec MFRU fitted whilst the harness was still wired for an EU2 spec MFRU). That confirmed the ECU was seeing all the inputs it needed from the sensors so they were deemed OK. I bought an OBD reader off eBay but couldn't get it to work (despite following Revilla's instructions on how to do it). So I believe the sensors are working correctly but admittedly, that was only before the car started and briefly after the ‘fault’ was corrected and ran, and not since it’s been driven on the road under load. Ezzer

I’ve recently upgraded my 1.6K Supersport from EU2 to EU3 spec with a remapped MEMS3 ECU from K-Maps, plus new coil packs, HT leads, lambda sensor and injectors. The plugs are fairly new so I didn’t change them. Passed its MoT last Saturday without any problem. However, it has a bad misfire under load from approximately 4000 to 5000 rpm with I guess about 60% throttle, and doesn’t accelerate beyond that. (A misfire under those circumstances wouldn’t affect its ability to pass the MoT test.) Intuitively it feels like an ignition problem but that’s not based on much more than being suspicious of the bits that have been changed. Mark at K-Maps says it won’t be the ECU (and I believe him). So has anybody got any words of wisdom to impart that might help me locate the cause of the misfire? Having had the car updated (which took a lot longer than anticipated, but that's another story) I'm really keen to try it out but this misfire is so frustrating. Ezzer

Never heard of this before so like you the possibility of VW BS does come to mind. You could always ask Rain-X if they're aware of this 'issue'. Ezzer

Conversion of my car from EU2 to EU3 spec which includes the MEMS3 ECU and it’s capacity for map improvements (the reason for doing it in the first place) has been a long and trying project. Much more trying than I had envisaged as it wouldn’t start despite the ECU getting all the signals it needed to run. I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to understand where the fault was which prompted my plan to interrogate the ECU with a fault code reader. Enter Andrew (Revilla) who as many of you will know is not one to be beaten by a problem such as this. With his considerable help, tenacious and dogged persistence and a lot of hard work (& not to forget his generosity and trust in lending me a MFRU) we, or really Andrew and with some invaluable help from K-Maps, finally got to the root of the problem – the MFRU. In particular the compatibility of EU2 & EU3 MFRUs with the wiring harness. As his excellent posts above explain, the story has some nutty little twists and turns but with Andrew on the case we were not to be denied. We (in reality Andrew) cracked it. So like so many others I have to say a massive thanks to him for his efforts in helping me sort my car out. Ezzer

Jonathan, Unfortunately Bolt & Nut is not compatible with iOS 11, yet. There doesn't seem to be an alternative so we'll just have to wait until it gets updated to iOS 11. Ezzer

Thanks Andrew. Just what I wanted to know and I've ordered the one you linked to. Cheers. Ezzer

I have (finally) completed the conversion of my 1.6K series from EU2 to EU3 with a MEMS3 ECU and modified harness from K-Maps, (and new injectors, coils, changed the MRFU etc). However, it won’t start. No doubt an error on my part somewhere but I can’t find it. The battery is good (13.5v at ignition on, 10.3v when cranking) turns over ok but it shows no sign of life. So I’m looking for a cheap fault code reader to interrogate the system. Can anybody recommend a suitable fault code reader that will do the job? Ezzer

Better very late than never, (but I doubt you'll think it was worth the wait) here is the image of the brake bleeding hose I promised. Like I said it's very simple, the bore is about 3mm, and the hose is about 275mm long (c11" in old speak). You can see the rivet and one of the slits in the hose is just visible. Hope that helps! Ezzer

Glasgow, without checking I couldn't say but I will check this evening (if I remember - off out almost as soon as I get home). I'll try and post a photo but honestly, it's a very simple/crude device that works. As stated previously, I bought it from a car accessories shop and didn't make it myself. The 'rivet' in the end stays put whereas a homemade version might not work so well (I could well imagine that the rivet might pop out of a homemade one). The hose is a snug fit but not excessively tight fit on a bleed nipple. Ezzer

I've used a simple piece of rubber tube that fits over the bleed nipple with a couple of slits in the wall of the tube at one end (and a small rivet to plug the end of it). You might call it crude but it works well, and I've never had a problem with it using the two handed method (one person pumping the brake pedal, the other opening and shutting the bleed nipple at the appropriate time). Think I bought it from Halfords or somewhere similar years ago. It does the job but does need two people.

Will, I bought the smallest CJ Autos mobile axle stands which have 80mm steel wheels. The stands are easily strong enough for a Seven but on my plastic tiled floor (the tiles are by Dynotile and have air gaps on the back for insulation and comfort which 'give' a bit under the concentrated load of small steel wheels when standing for a while, and consequently require more effort to move the car but do recover. BTW they are absolutely fine for vehicle tyres.) CJ Autos do bigger stands with bigger wheels (100mm or even 125mm) but these are more expensive. The bigger ones would roll easier but the smaller steel ones are ok on my floor. On a firmer floor I expect they'd be better still. You pays your money, you make your choice. Ezzer

I've got a pair of mobile axle stands from CJ Autos which work well. I got around the 'wide' front cross piece issue by buying another short length of box section from a steel stockist. I wish I'd got the bigger wheels to make moving it a bit easier on my plastic tiled floor but I'm still able to move it OK. Ezzer

Thanks Oily for the advice. Couldn’t shear the rubber but the whole thing came out. ‘Tis only a push fit into the end of the camshaft i discovered, but I guess timing of the rotor arm in a distributor is not the critical factor in the K series EU2 spec ignition system. A push fit for the rotor arm drive spigot would be good enough. Anyway, end result - progress. Ezzer

Progress on my conversion of my 1.6 K series from EU2 to EU3 has been slower (embarrassingly) than I had hoped (for a variety of reasons, not related to the project). However, I have now encountered an unexpected issue (which I should have foreseen) with the cam shaft. Obvious now but not to me previously and nobody pointed it out. Namely the redundant distributor drive on the end of the camshaft. Can somebody please enlighten me on what to do about the distributor drive on the end of the camshaft. Ezzer

I understand the desire to fit LED bulbs with their longer life but one should not overlook the fact that incandescent bulbs give off some useful heat that helps to keep gauges free from misting up. So don't be in too much of a hurry to fit LED's in your instruments if they are prone to misting up. Just a thought. Ezzer

Andrew, I'm not sure. My innate mechanical empathy doesn't allow me to venture quite that far up the rev range! Ezzer

Ignition in the middle, main beam at the bottom and the top one is rev limiter (used on Supersport spec K series). Ezzer