Willbav

Morning all, I’ll be tightening up my diff carrier bolts this morning after I noticed they’d worked loose after some enthusiastic driving at North Weald on Friday. What’s the recommended torque for these? Loctite as well? It’s a 2018 270R with a Titan LSD. It seems a fairly common thing so I wondered what other bolts are known to come loose? Has anyone produced a post / during track day list of things to check? Many thanks.

Just wondering if anyone in the North Herts area has an engine hoist available for loan weekend 30th June. Many thanks, Will

I've exchanged emails with Derek. The first of many I expect. I'm just to go with the settings in the new build manual.

Thanks Jonathan. Yes, that's the search method I've been using. And yes, this is the new pictorial manual on the Caterham website marked as 2018 BETA Assembly Guide. An example is shown below where the old manual states top and bottom rear damper bolts to be torqued to 54Nm but the new manual states 47Nm for the top and 81Nm for the bottom. Given I've been directed to use the new manual for my build starting in just over a week I'm a little concerned.

No. Both Nm. Lots are exactly the same. Could a difference be due to the different applications of copper grease? Seems like a big variance on this particular example though.

I’ve just been reviewing the new manual vs old and there are lots of differences in torques with some pretty significant. For example, rear spring damper bottom is 54 in the old manual but 81 in the new. Have there been any corrections or confirmations on the torque settings in the new manual? And either I’m not very good at using the search function on this forum or there hasn’t yet been a review of the new manual. Thanks for any input. Will

Thanks for your comments. I was thinking about this last night and whether it would it be possible to find a jack that could lift onto the mobile stands and also be low enough to go under the car once finished. I’m scouring the internet for the right jack but think i’ll have to go with two; one for high lift and one for low entry.

Hi John, Thanks for your comments. By coincidence, I discovered your fantastic blog yesterday evening and was reading it until the early hours. I must remember adequate sleep will also be a critical build preparation! I hadn’t got to this page yet but I’d already had similar thoughts about moving the chassis to the hoist. It’s good to see that works well. I think I’ll copy you with swapping the wheels out (do you recall the specific ones?). I see you found some with locks; essential for me as my garage has a slight incline and the drive even more so. However as long as I can stop everything rolling away (using chocks and the wheel locks) it should definitely simplify getting the angle needed for the engine install. Many thanks, Will

Hi Ezzer, Thanks for the tip on wheel size, which ones have you got? I’ve got plastic tiles too (disc profile). I see that CJ Autos have a set with 100mm wheels. Just wondering if these are the larger ones. Thanks, Will

Thanks chaps, some great advice there. I can see this is going to be a regular haunt. I look forward to one day passing on my own tips. Larger wheels make sense - should give me the option to move it onto my block paved drive if I do need extra headroom for the hoist. Will

Morning all, Post #1 from a newbie. A quick question in advance of kitting out my garage for a build. I’ve got fairly limited space and am considering a pair of mobile axle stands so I can get a bit more room around the car when needed. I’m just wondering if I’d hit a problem when using an engine hoist with the legs of the hoist clashing with the strut of the forward axle stand. Any advice? Thanks, Will