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I've just had my FIA bar, hood sticks, windscreen stanchions and windscreen surround blasted and coated for £50

Does anyone know what ford Sierra model the standard rear calipers are from? I need a seal kit. Car is a 2003 de-dion Cheers

Thanks chaps

I'm removing my FIA roll bar for powder/nylon coating. There is an Arch sticker on the bar say "do not remove or paint over". Clearly it will be removed when the bar is blasted Will not having a sticker give problems at future track days etc? Cheers Tim

Glad its sorted Stuart I think raising the front of the car helps as this assists in forcing the air out of the heater matrix towards the bleed T. The heater matrix is near enough horizontal when the car is level, so its easier for air to get trapped in it - by tilting a few degrees it helps the air bubbles move towards the bleed T Also helps clearing the air locks in the j-hose. Having silicone hoses really helps with all the squeezing 😳

Ah - the engine was hot - I'd just refilled, bled and tested the cooling system, so the engine had run for a good 15 mins. So assume the probe is hot - but I see that this isn't related to my starting niggle. I had SWMBO bring the revs up whilst I watched the meter, from memory, it climbed from 550 mV to 850 mV. Thanks for your help

Sorry for the long post... I'm chasing a poor cold staring problem and today noticed uplugging the lambda probe makes no difference to the running engine. If anything it idles a little smoother and certainly seems to start better. (My thinking being if the lambda is sending duff signals, unplugging it will set the ECU into default mode) I'm using this to check the sensor. At 2750 rpm I'm seeing around 850mV a lot higher than the site suggests (450mV). I'm checking this on a DVM as I don't have an O-Scope. Removing the probe shows it to have a biscuit colour on one site and more black on the other side. Is it shot? Anyone got any experiance in testing these? EU3 engine XPower 140 Oh, BTW - A recent RR Session showed the AFR to be very lean ... Cheers Edited to say, there is about 10v on the heater pins Edited by - Tim Pollard on 27 Sep 2008 17:36:58

Yup - just blagged 4 freebies from them 😬

Cheers SM25T You've helped make a little boy in Oz happy 😬 I'm giving his mum's old tricycle its 30 year rebuild ready for the new arrival. BRG with yellow stripe of course 😬

Does anyone know where to get those top-hat shaped spring clips that press onto the end of steel rods. Bit hard to describe really. They hold the wheels on a childs toy and just press onto the end of a 6mm bar. Cheers Tim

My car won't start from cold without applying a little bit a throttle. It used to start with "no feet" at all, but now it won't.... When it catches, it doesn't really want to tick over for the first few seconds, and then the cold start seems to kick in and lift the revs to 1500rpm until it warms up a bit. IACV was changed last year as full of grot, and its never really be spot on since. Tried resetting the ECU. I can hear the IACV 'home' itself when the engine is turned off. It also makes a high pitch whine for a few minutes too (the old IACV did this also). Un plugging the IACV seems to make no difference to the starting procedure, so I figure it's getting a duff signal from another sensor? Where do I look next? Coolant temperature sensor, I assume the ECU uses this to figure out if the engine is cold and wind out the IACV accordingly...? Cheers 2003 K-Series EU3 1.8 Standard alloy plenum

Tony, YHM

Just removed from my 03 Roadsport as too wide for my setup. Approx 2 years old, unknown manufacturer. Bigheads bonded on to suit 13/14" stays 700mm circumference 240mm wide 560mm Chord length Piccys here £100 plus delivery at cost

Polished Ally side panels About 6pm today

Yellow and black nice day for it

Adam Interested in item 1. Any chance of free delivery to the frozen wastelands of Lancashire 😬 Tim

Found it! The play is between the inner race of the bearing and the shaft. The fit of the bearing doesn't feel too sloppy but there is a bit of play. Surface of the driveshaft in good condition with no scoring or obvious wear. TADTS or crap bearings?

Now I've had time to strip the half shaft out and assemble the whole lot on the bench. Everything is fitting OK - the inner bearing races are against the shoulder on the drive shaft and the nut nips up OK. Checking with a dial guage I'm getting 0.25mm movement @ 115mm radius. (so movement is going to be about 0.75 at the rim). I'm certain this is movement from the bearings. As I've got the DTI clamped to the de-dion ear measuring off the brake disk. I had a similar amount of movement from the old bearings on both sides... Anyone any thoughts on what to check next?

Thanks Jason That kinda supports my theory

OK Here are some pics of the RH side drive flange. I reckon there around 0.1mm run out (14.8 to 14.7mm measured from the step) on the mangled inner face (that locates the inner race of the taper bearing?) If I'm understanding Rob correctly this face locates the inner race of the bearing, but the design of the shaft/hub carrier prevent this putting an significant axial load onto the taper rollers. However if its a bit worm (as it seems) this will prevent the inner race of the bearing fully locating giving me a bit of movement? Thanks for your help

Cheers Rob I'm going to take a more in-depth look at it now.....

yeah - I torqued the nut up once to 'seat' the bearings. An then slackened off and re torqued again Haven't had chance to look again today, but suspect the wear on the back of the drive flange is causing the problem. Can easily test this theory with a big washer when SWMBO lets me out..... If it is, then time for new drive flange Can't really think of any thing else it could be

Yep - I think this is wear on the hub - making the internally splined bit shorter so you can't load the bearings up before the hub nut hits the end of the thread on the half shaft. If you know what I mean Will place a temporary shim behind the hub nut and torque it back up to see

Thanks both. Expected this was wrong. Will investigate further.

Noticed some play in the rear hubs of the car. On closer examination I could detect a noticeable movement of the hub both vertically and horizontally. Car has done 45k miles so assumed bearings are worn. Fitted new bearing and seals tonight. Tightened the hub nut up v.v.tight and still got a bit of movement. 😔 The amount of play is very small - you can't see the wheel rim move, but you can feel a definite amount of movement. I would guess its less than 0.5 mm at the rim. Is this normal? The drivers side hub nut looks like its been loose in the past as the washer looks like its been rotating, and there is a little wear in the inboard side of the hub but nothing else looks too worn. The near side looks fine..... Anyone any experience of this? Car is an '03 road sport with de-dion.