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c7trp

Support Team
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Everything posted by c7trp

  1. Hi Chris, I had this a couple of weeks ago. I traced the leak to the heater matrix. The pipes are fixed to the matrix by a plastic flange held on with self tappers. Mine was leaking around this flange. I removed the screws and fitted new O rings and its been OK since. I tested mine with a foot pump, cork and a bucket of water before putting it all back together. Turn the heater valve of off before removing the pipe work and you wont have to drain the cooling system. On refitting you can fill the heater matrix from the upper hose before reconnecting it..... HTH Tim
  2. c7trp

    IACV

    Having cold starting problems with my 1.8k This has led me to the IACV - assuming this acts in a similar way to the choke on an carb. Stripping it down the plunger only has a about 4 mm of movement. Has anyone had theirs in bits and can give me an idea of the movement range. Also when I plug it in with the ignition on, I get no movement of the plunger, just a high pitched noise.... I've tried to de-clag with carb cleaner / wd40 but still not much better. Assume is 🙆🏻'd ? Has anyone managed to strip one of these down?
  3. Fella's you've just made a 7 year old very happy *thumbup* Davesports technique worked. This led me to a carb issue. So I've stripped and cleaned it. ( Now if goes goodo. Thanks for your help.
  4. Thanks all. Will give these a try.
  5. I'm trying to help a mate get his son's quad running. Its a little 50cc two stroke motor with electric and kick start. Its turning over fine with good compression. The plug is new and we've got a healthy spark. I've drained the fuel and replaced. Kicking the engine over there is absolutely nothing! The plug is getting wet with petrol, but its not firing. Engine earth is good. I'm running out of ideas. Any clues?
  6. Fancy metallic white paint work - hood up In the traffic heading into Callender 2:45pm Saturday Didn't catch the rego.
  7. Red with full cage. Going well up the hill 😬 Edited to say around 4pm Saturday Edited by - Tim Pollard on 29 Sep 2007 20:39:25
  8. Hi Dave, Thought it was you! We guessed you were on your way to Arnside.... 😬 Cheers Tim
  9. c7trp

    A Frame Bush

    Cheers All, Looking like I need to change the bushes then....I've already checked the bolts.
  10. c7trp

    A Frame Bush

    Cheers Mav, so you reckon they're knackered then?
  11. c7trp

    A Frame Bush

    Bear with me, I'm a bit of a 7 newbie.... I have a lot of rear suspension noise when going over bumps. It sounds like the boot floor is bouncing around. I've checked the shocker mounts, trailing arms, wheel bearings, boot floor and removed the spare wheel. Still noisy With the car on the ground and the suspension normally loaded, I got SWMBO to rock the rear wheel vertically. The only play I can see is in the bush where the A frame meets the Dedion tube. With the most violent rock SWMBO can muster the bush moves around 2mm along the axis of the bolt. Is this an acceptable level of play or is it ready for a new one? Could the crashing noise be the dedion tube moving around as its not being adequately restrained by the A-frame ? Cheers Tim Oh, BTW, 03 Roadsport with 43k miles
  12. Check multi-connector under the nose cone. Mine had lose pins that needed to be pulled out 😳 Quality lectrics 😬
  13. Do you have one for me too ?
  14. Had this on one of our Passats. It was tracked down, eventually, to the alternator mounting being distorted, this inturn caused the tensioner mechanism to collapse.... Didn't manage to lock the engine / slip the cam belt on ours though.
  15. Dry lining is a pain in the 🙆🏻 when it comes to fitting shelves radiators etc! Be a bit careful dot-and-dabing plasterboard onto damp walls. It doesn't work very well in the long term. If its an old house with solid (or dampish) walls batten with treated slate battens and board with foil backed board (with insulation if you want). IMHO the best solution is to re plaster with lime. Cement will stop the walls breathing and probably make things worse.
  16. FIXED IT! After driving around with various bits removed (spare, bonnet, boot floor, etc) I traced it to the FRONT near side lower ball joint binding 😳 1 Squirt with WD40 and all is gone, and the steering is much lighter too! The ball joint feels OK, it was just full of crap and binding. Also found handbrake cable was vibrating on the top of the diff ( millsn) - so fixed two noises in one Thanks for all your help and apologies for misleading you all with my crap description of the problem Edited by - Tim Pollard on 9 Apr 2007 20:05:52
  17. Cheers all, Quick blat this AM suggests the noise is worse 😳 But then that could just be me worrying about it more.... Time to jack it up and take another look
  18. Can't see any contact marks on the rear suspension. The 'size' of the noise sounds like a big bit of kit - de-dion tube, rear gearbox mounting or something like that. I've taken everything out of the boot, and strapped the spare wheel on to the carrier. The noise only occurs when steering, suggesting something is moving at the back? Myles - snap - I hit a parked landrover head on whilst trying to find a rattle on my push bike 😳 Landrover fine, pride dented, knackered front wheel ol' days mode>
  19. Nope - no rear ARB - standard suspension with trailing arms rather than watts-linkage. Car is 2003 Roadsport with 40k miles.
  20. Have a mysterous noise from my De-dion 7. Getting a loud 'rattle' - like a long metal bar hitting somthing. The noise occurs mostly when cornering, but also when pulling away in too-higher gear. Its like somthing is resonating. Can do it at parking speeds, but not allways. I've checked the bushes at the rear. All seem fine, only very slight play in the a-frame bushes. New rear shockers and trailing arms. Front end recently lubricated and wouldn't seem to be the cause as the noise appears to come from towards the rear of the car. You can't feel the rattle through the transmission, steering or your bum! Any thoughts?
  21. c7trp

    Radius Arm

    Ah, mines the other way around. Socket head (allen) bolt in a counter formed hole inside through chassis and radius arm to nyloc nut... Thanks for your help
  22. I second John's point. As a newbie 7 owner, blatchat has been a massively useful resource for all things 7. The folks at the local meetings are also very helpful - so you wont be alone!
  23. c7trp

    Radius Arm

    Thanks both After driving around for while with 6mm of play in the rear suspension I think I need MUCH less rear steer 😳 Edited to say, I've ordered new bolts. The original is well hammered, and I'm not convinced its the right bolt, as most of the bearing for the bush is threaded! Edited by - Tim Pollard on 28 Mar 2007 20:15:52
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