BBL

Example: The brain dead teenager post in the Shining Wit section has a link, but I cannot click it, as with other posts. This was in both Safari and Firefox browsers.

I thought all Caterhams leaked gear oil? In fact, I thought all British cars leaked something!

Mine has the fuel line routed from out of the tunnel into the adjustable FPR just before the fuel rail. The FPR has a return port, to which a line is routed back to the fuel tank. This is commonly referred to (at least in the U.S.A.) as a "deadhead" system. A basic diagram comparing the two systems: http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/forum_photos/FPR_Diagram_zps62c51e7d.jpg edit -- Re-added image, as it had been lost in the blatchat.com to lotus7.club migration process. rutabaga

Just to qualify my comments, my engine came with RBs from new, and I have never driven a Seven with an engine that did not have RBs. Just saying, partial throttle is not that much of an issue in my experience.

I am a bit far away from the Kings Langley/Hemel area, but I do have the roller barrel throttle body on my car, and (after mapping) partial throttle is as smooth as any other car I have driven. It had been initially "kangaroo-ing" at part-throttle, but mapping sorted that. I would think that you would be pleased with the performance of either Titan roller or Jenvey butterfly, but know going in that any changes of this type will benefit greatly from mapping after the change.

Just to mix it up... Last time I checked, Caterham recommend a 75W-90 GL4 gear oil for their bespoke 6-speed and Ford Type 9-based 5-speed gearboxes. Redline offer the following: 75W-80 GL4 gear oil, designated MTL 75W-85 GL4 gear oil, designated MT-85 75W-90 GL4 gear oil, designated MT-90 So, I have been using Redline MT-90, without any issues to date. I have always been baffled as to why someone would choose MTL over MT-90 in this application. Unless availability is an issue in the U.K.?

Quoting revilla: @BBL - For the record, can you recall the size of the BFW you used? I'm guessing some kind of thick ½" penny washer? No - it was over 7,000 miles ago! - but I chose it by taking the large mounting bolt with me to the hardware store and looked for what is known here as a "fender washer"; the biggest O.D. steel one I could find with an I.D. that would fit the bolt. The purpose is to spread the load from the downward force of the RHS steel engine mount bracket across a greater surface area of the rubber engine mount. I may be able to measure the O.D. of it without removing it, but I am just having lunch now in California. (Should have driven the 7 to work today and I could measure it right now, but I didn't wake up early enough to beat rush hour, so took the tin-top instead) edit -- I used this engine mount manufactured by URO, which seems to be the common one available. They were $5 USD when I bought them, but have since gone way up in price! Edited by - BBL on 27 Aug 2014 20:16:31

Quoting Jonathan Kay: Any ideas why they should fail so quickly in your car? Torque? Combined with maybe an overly sharp lower edge on the tube the large bolt passes through in the steel bracket? I do find it curious that it is only the RHS one being torn, which is why I mention torque, but the BFW seems to have corrected the issue.

Cool! I-90, or back roads?

Or maybe, they don't make 'em like they used to?

My car came with the Caterham ones, which my Duratec ripped through the RHS one in about 5K miles. LHS one fine. I bought some aftermarket ones labelled as being for Jaguar XKE, and again the one on RHS was ripped through about 5K miles later. LHS one still fine. I installed another XKE one, but with a B.F.W. (big washer - the "f" is silent) on the top of the rubber to simulate the effect of the Vibra-Technics design, and they are both fine with another 7-8K since the last change.

Thank you very much, revilla! My 2006 7 has had the alternator warning light (a.k.a. alternator light) on whenever the engine is running since new. I thought I had read on here that this is a known issue with a fairly simple and straightforward solution, but could not easily locate anything with a search. edit -- Until now. Thanks again! Edited by - BBL on 25 Aug 2014 17:23:55

Thank you very much, Culminator. rutabaga

If looking for a bulk buy, ULine has them at 18 cents (US) each, but with a minimum lot of 50 units (25 pairs). Available on-line in red, black, blue, green, white, or clear. I also found them in person at my local gigantic home improvement store, Home Depot, as well as a smaller local hardware store being sold as "thread protectors" for about 75 cents US each. These were gray. REF: ULine 1/2" end caps edit - Really good looking R500! Edited by - BBL on 7 Jul 2014 01:49:47

From the arrow marking on the side, you can be certain of the intended direction of flow of the new replacement filter. On the previous one it is replacing, the intended flow direction is less clear, but now that it is out of the car, it is irrelevant.

How did you happen to find that article now, as it is from the 2010 May issue of C&D?

Might want to ping user Alaskossie via BlatMail. He has CSR wheels on his S3, I believe.

I'm no expert, but it sounds warm to me. I recently drove my Duratec-engined 7 in mid- to high-30s temps all day long, and the coolant temperature gauge only went over 80 on an uphill no passing section stuck behind an older woman doing 25 mph maximum. After passing her, went back to 80 fairly quickly (still uphill, and still a very hot afternoon). Also, my car has a Modine oil/coolant heat exchanger, which only serves to introduce that much more heat into the coolant. Sorry that I can offer no insight into what might be potential causes. Best of luck.

Suggest a link at the top of the BC main page(s) next to lotussevenclub, 7faq, etc., please. I know; you are probably already working on that, but thought I would throw it out there, just in case.

I recently read about a similar problem of carbs leaking fuel in a Seven, which turned out to be caused by a worn motor mount (the rubber/steel puck ones on the lower frame rail, not the brackets to the engine). The rubber would compress too much under load, causing the carbs to contact the upper frame rail and weep fuel at the carb/head interface. Something to check.

Not what you were asking for specifically, but I bought a panoramic one from mirrorsforsevens.com for use with the full windscreen, and it works very well.

Alaskossie has CSR wheels at the rear of his S3, but not sure they are 15x9; seems like they were 13" diameter? (Or do you guys spell it "diametre"?)

Same as mine then, as the Mann WK612/2 is on the cross-reference list Randall had posted. Reposting here, for convenience. ADL ADG02302 ADL ADG02303 AC GF651 ALCO SP2083 BOSCH 0986450119 BOSCH F0119 CHAMPION L219 CLEAN MBNA984 COOPERS FIG7010 CROSLAND 6709 DAEWOO 25055129 DAEWOO 96130396 DELPHI FF0052 FIAAM FT5294 FILTRON PP859 FORD 1137438 FRAM G3727 GM 25055046 GM 25055052 GM 25055128 GM 25055129 GM 25055480 GM 25121130 GM 25121741 GM 25121792 GM 25121914 GM 25121915 GM 25171109 HALFORDS HFF217 ISUZU 8250551290 JAGUAR CBC7083 JAPANPARTS JFC393 KNECHT-MAHLE KL158 LAND ROVER ESR3117 LAND ROVER ESR4065 LAND ROVER NTC6936 LOTUS A910E6929F LUCAS FDB137 MANN & HUMMEL WK612/2 MEAT & DORIA 4070 MOTAQUIP VFF237 MOTORCRAFT EFG6102 PBR AG6029 POWERTRAIN PMFI11 PUROLATOR F33144 QH QFF5368 QH QFF8130 ROVER ERS3117 ROVER ERS4065 ROVER ESR4065 RYKO Z479 TJ FF5368 TJ FF8130 UFI 31.564.00 UNIPART GFE7020 VAUXHALL 25055046 VAUXHALL 25055052 VAUXHALL 25055128 VAUXHALL 25055129 VAUXHALL 25055480 VAUXHALL 25121130 VAUXHALL 25121741 VAUXHALL 25121792 VAUXHALL 25121914 VAUXHALL 25121915 VAUXHALL 25171109 WIX 44831

Hi Mike, I used a WIX 44831 on my S3, which was a direct bolt-in replacement for the original Rover item supplied with my car, but I'm unsure if this will be suitable to replace the one on your CSR - I would think so, but don't know for sure. I started a thread on the California forum about my search for a replacement a few years back which turned up a good number of suitable replacements. rutabaga REF: http://californiacaterhamclub.com/chat/showthread.php?1830-Fuel-filter-source edit -- Here is the page where Myles shows you how to replace it, and offers the great tip of changing the phillips head fasteners in the behind-the-seats bulkhead for hex head ones to make it so-o-o much easier the next time. Edited by - BBL on 6 May 2014 21:18:16

Irrespective of the supplier/brand you choose, I think I would prefer convex mirrors for the sides. I forgot to specify this when I bought mine, and the flat side mirrors sometimes seem as though they would be better as convex. I like how your thread title asks which are best, but your post asks which are cheapest!