BBL

It can be difficult to do under the dash, but try to determine which pins on the OBD2 port have a wire attached. My 2006 car only had two IIRC, which I believe were power and ground. YMMV. Attached is a jpeg of the OBD2 standard pinouts: http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/forum_photos/OBDII_Pinout_zps107af0e9.jpg Edited by - BBL on 26 Apr 2014 16:02:53

Danny - I am not sure which one you are referring to specifically, but I got a replacement Pipercross PX600 "sausage" filter from Simon at Meteor Motorsport.

No question I would have the Penskes if money were no object, but the reality is I will probably have my Freestyle-supplied Avos rebuilt when the time comes.

RR'77 - I sourced an aftermarket fuel pump for my application, and found there are multiple sources for pumps that meet the required spec, which has more to do with high pressure capability rather than lph (gph) flow rates - the Duratec likes 4.2 bar, I believe. Provided CC can provide all the other items such as the hangar, the white polymer sleeve, sock filter, etc., a suitable pump itself is not difficult to obtain. At least not here in the U.S.A. And mine was < 100 bucks American, and shipped to me in a few days. You might try a search locally for a suitable high pressure fuel pump, and if no luck, try TRE (cannot recall the specific part number) based in Fallbrook , California or Deatsch Werks DW200 from Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I am sure there are others. My S3 car w/ CSR260 2.3 Duratec came with the standard CC fuel pump, but a dyno session revealed it to be inadequate. I then had a DW200 which worked well, but an unfortunate coolant leak onto the MFRU fried that, and I replaced it with a TRE ($69 USD!!), which works equally well, which was proven on the dyno. Either of these pumps may require enlarging the white polymer sleeve by a couple of mm, but that is an easy lathe job, and once done, fully adequate and inexpensive fuel pumps are readily available, albeit from America. Edited by - BBL on 12 Apr 2014 05:14:43

YHM again.

You have Blatmail.

BM sent.

I also had one fall out a while back now, but an upper one. Still trying to work out how it went walkabout with the bonnet still attached! It seems three is enough to hold it. sidebar -- I like to pronounce Dzus as "Dee-zuhss" (rhymes with "Jesus") just for a laugh. 😬

Quoting Nigel Riches: http://www.saikoumichi.com/ Nigel. I went ahead and link-ificated that for you, sir.

That last one made me laugh. I went to Scotland on holiday around Christmas in 1989, and at security upon return (with me only slightly hung over), the agent went piece-by-piece through everything in my suitcase. At one point, he held up a small container of Savex (chapped lip ointment) and asked "What's this?", to which I casually replied "lip balm". His eyes got big as saucers, and I immediately re-stated the term with a distinct emphasis on the "L", followed by "salve, ointment, cream" and any other like word that I could think of just then. Not at all funny at that time! And I pronounce "tune" just like it has been spelled on the rear wing of the McLaren F1 cars a season or two back.

Quoting Pendennis: Of course if your using carp fluid it could be getting too hot and relief itself from the cap orifice. Dot 5 tends to cope with high temperatures quite well.I assume you intended to type "DOT 5.1", as DOT 5 (silicone-based) should not be used in your car!

Quoting Pendennis: Good point but don't you have a clutch stop?My 2006 S3 does not. One of those things I intend to get around to doing one day, but...

It can also leak out through the plunger at the cylinder up by the pedal box, if the pedal has been depressed too far enough times to prematurely wear the seal there. Or so I have read here before.

Quoting Alaskossie: Uh-oh -- Mine is a 2007, one of the last left-hand Imperial/Arch chassis models. Mine is a 2006, closing in on 15,000 miles now w/ no UJ issues to date. Not sure what a DS joint or OS joint is?

Thanks Gerhard. I'm a little surprised that all responses thus far have been from California and Austria!

Hi again Martin, I found another source, which I had copied into text in the event the URL might some day be changed (luckily, as it had changed). Copied and pasted below, including the currently inaccurate URL: Minister Engine Data pages Optimum Engine Working Parameters for Cosworth CSR260 Duratec http://www.minister-power.com/support/engine_data_pages/cat_csr260_data_page.htm Oil Pressure 3000rpm 4.1 Bar/60 psi Oil Pressure 5000rpm 4.8 Bar/70 psi Oil Pressure 7500rpm 4.1 Bar/60 psi Oil Temperature Maximum 100°C Oil Temperature Minimum 50°C Oil Grade / Viscosity 5w/50 Oil Filter Number (Purolator) L1763/PC603 (UFI 2311800, FIAAM FT4763, FRAM PH2874, MANN and HUMMEL W77, PUROLATOR PC603, TECHNOCAR R15) Coolant Temperature above 5000 rpm 75°C ± 5°C Track 85°C ± 5°C Road Antifreeze / Inhibitor content minimum 50% Fuel Pressure (Reving) 4.3 Bar ±0.2 Bar Fuel Grade (Road) 95 RON Fuel Grade (Track) 98 RON Spark Plug Torque 12Nm Spark Plug Type (NGK) BR7EFS Spark Plug Gap 0.66mm /0.026" Maximum Power at 7500 rpm Maximum Torque at 6000 rpm Rev Limiter set to 7700 rpm Data Logging Parameters Minimum rpm to Start Logging 3000 rpm Set Shift Light to 7400 rpm Set Low Oil Pressure Warning to 1.36 Bar/2 0 psi Oil Temp. Warning (Max) 120°C Maximum Coolant Temperature 95°C Minimum Battery Voltage 11.0V Maximum Battery Voltage 14.8V Minimum Fuel Pressure 3.4 Bar/50 psi It would appear that Cosworth USA, Cosworth UK, and Minister all agree on 4.3 bar. Not sure where 3 bar comes from, but whatever works. Edited by - BBL on 24 Feb 2014 17:50:54

Martin, My car has a CSR260 engine from Cosworth, and they told me 4.2 bar (61psi) 4.3 bar (62psi) fuel pressure required. edit -- secondary source: http://csr.informe.com/forum/fuel-pump-make-model-dt329.html Edited by - BBL on 24 Feb 2014 15:33:00

Terry, I just checked using "diff" and "oil" with the "search thread titles only" box checked, and it appears to me the search function here is working as intended.

Quoting 6speedmanual: 75w80 GL4 or Redline MTL GL4. The manual that came with my car indicates 75w90 GL4 semi-synthetic is the recommended type of gearbox lubricant. Has something changed? I realize the difference is small, but there it is. I bring it up only because Redline also offer MT-90, which is 75w90 GL4 semi-synthetic, just as recommended by the manual.

Quoting Martin Jeffrey: Scary stuff I hope the driver wasn't badly hurt. Driver was unharmed, as this is a LHD car. But a great photo to show the potential for damage.

☹️ http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/forum_photos/Stokes_prop_fail_zpsde14346a.jpg

Looks great, Andrew! I made a similar set-up for my Ecliptech Shift-i shortly after a friend had added CNC capability to the Bridgeport mill in his garage and wanted to do some simple test runs. I'll have to get a better photo. http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/7%20Build%20Issues/9dbd3cf1-861f-4051-bf76-3342b4cac46c_zpsa48c56aa.jpg Edited by - BBL on 4 Feb 2014 19:28:29

Pardon the hi-jack, but a related question, please: Is the 40th anniversary red from 1997 the same shade (paint code?) as the 40th anniversary red from 2013? I ask because I live outside the U.K., so I don't regularly see the 40th anniversary cars running all over the place like you may see. Been curious about this though, as on the computer screen, they appear to be a very similar red.

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: P.s. Do you not need fog lights in CA? No fog light required here, but reverse light is required. I just realized that, even after thinking about it in advance, I still cocked up the near-side/off-side distinction in the first post. Yes John, I was thinking LHD off-side, but typed it as RHD off-side. Thanks all for pointing out the proper traditional location. It's just so hard to add unnecessary weight! Edited by - BBL on 17 Jan 2014 15:51:05