BBL

One failed here on a 250-hp spec Duratec car five years ago. A good deal of luck was involved, I believe. http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/forum_photos/Stokes_prop_fail_zpsde14346a.jpg

heat + fuel + oxygen = fire If any one of these is not present in sufficient quantity, then no fire.

Quoting ECR: Incorrect fuel air mix : it would need to be always incorrect which would mean that you could chuck a cigarette in there safely at any time ... It should always be incorrect, unless it is "empty" - the tank will typically have far more petrol fumes than air. In theory, you could chuck a lit cigarette in safely, but the problem is that the fuel/air ratio is far more likely to be at a sufficient ratio to support combustion right at or very near the filler neck. edit -- An example , ignited by static charge. Edited by - BBL on 19 Jun 2013 01:36:53

Quoting ECR: What about sparks igniting vapour ? Why is that not a problem Not enough oxygen in the tank, I believe.

Quoting rgrigsby: I'm running a BGH 5 speed with the heavy duty gearset with the following ratios 2.75 1.75 1.26 1.0 0.86 This is with a 3.92 diff, my engine is around 250bhp and 210lbft but only revs to 7500. They seem to work pretty well on my car. I have the same HD BGH, with same ratios, also with 3.92 diff, with similar power levels (mine is a bit less, likely due to U.S. gas having less 'oomph' than U.K. petrol). Seems to work well enough for me on my car. edit -- Agree that a 1st less than 2.5 would be desirable. Edited by - BBL on 11 Jun 2013 22:04:08

Hmmm... Another suggestion for the wire from the inertia switch. Thank you very much, Mr. Jackson.

Lost a belt, which caused overheat, which resulted in coolant spray penetrating MFU (a.k.a. MFRU) connector, which cooked the fuel pump pin and socket in the connector and MFU. Tried a direct bypass from the accessory socket as a temporary measure, but the fuel pump seems to be drawing huge current now, heating up any wires connected to it in maybe 10-15 seconds. Fuel pump is just over a year old, and I have got to believe the overheating and fuel pump "going bad" events are related, but don't understand how. More importantly, I am unsure of where to look to resolve the issue. Clearly there is increased resistance somewhere, but any ideas on where to look first? Any suggestions greatly appreciated, as my car is 400+ miles from home at the moment. I'll be ordering a replacement MFU as soon as I figure out which one I need to get as a suitable replacement. edit -- TechTalk search (yes, I searched first!) suggests wire from reset switch to fuse box as a likely culprit, but would this affect the accessory socket bypass? Electr *idea*cal things are not my specialty. Edited by - BBL on 7 Jun 2013 06:23:47

I suppose my Freestyle ARB must have been binding in the blocks recently... mine recently broke at the weld of the main crossbar to the leg on the non-adjustable side. I'll have to have it welded back together and check it is not binding upon re-installation, as a discount on a replacement seems unlikely. I hope Mr. May is doing well.

CSR spark plug info here.

Readily available from JEGS in SAE30R9 for external use, and also SAE30R10 for in-tank use (submersible). They ship internationally, but I'm not sure of the shipping charges. edit -- There are other sources here as well, if this particular one doesn't appeal to you. Google down. edit 2 -- If you must have Gates-brand hose, another source: here offers 15' length for 54 USD +shipping. Edited by - BBL on 13 May 2013 22:53:47

Some interesting reading on the subject here. Lots of tech stuff.

Using foam earplugs properly will adequately protect your hearing, and does not prove to be uncomfortable for most people. The gurus at 3M describe proper insertion and fit techniques in great detail in this pdf, or alternatively, in . As with any tool, using the ear plugs properly is the key to achieving the desired result. edit -- I have found it very beneficial to have clean hands/fingers before rolling them up, for obvious reasons. That said, the E*A*R brand from 3M are washable and re-useable. Other brands may be as well, but the 3M literature linked here does not mention that. Edited by - BBL on 6 May 2013 20:48:16

I don't mean to single out anyone in particular - just seems to be a common occurrence recently.

How about offering a small discount on the annual membership renewal, maybe one or two pounds, for those who can demonstrate competency at hyperlinking in a post? I'm only half-kidding.

I have a 270mm wheel.

Quoting mav: Shift i they do have a uk. Seller. Been great in my car Shift-i Same here - really like the Shift-i. http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/7%20Build%20Issues/2013-03-01_shift-i_zps92a1ec4e.jpg

I bought one of the better quality ones (a Bosch, I believe), and as it was a bit too long, trimmed the plunger. Unlike the original, this one had a hollow plunger with the spring inside, so I had destroyed it, effectively. ☹️ Bought a second one and bent the bracket holding the brake switch instead - job done.

Quoting keybaud: Quoting 7TOM: When I was testing if there was no screen the wipers and washers were not testable items , as with mirrors you needed a drivers and either a rear view or passenger side MOT regulations state: Obligatory mirrors are a. an exterior mirror fitted to the offside (right-hand side when seated in the drivers seat), or b, an exterior mirror fitted to the nearside fleft hand side when seated In the drivers seat), or c. an interior mirror. So, just one mirror. http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_810.htm Edited by - keybaud on 18 Apr 2013 21:10:19 A bit farther down on the same page, it reads, Passenger vehicles with more than 7 passenger seats of any age, and all passenger vehicles first used on or after I August 1978 (not being a minibus as above), must have two mirrors, one of which must be option 'a'.

Quoting Stationary M25 Traveller: Untreated CF doesn't like raindrops and sunshine ! Not all cf. Unfortunately for me, the cf on my car doesn't like raindrops and sunshine, as you mention. ☹️

Is the Ballistic Evo 2 16-cell battery available in the U.K.? At under 4 lbs., it is a popular choice here in the states lately, and seems to perform well according to those who have taken the chance on this new technology - this is a lithium-phosphate battery, which is reported to be far safer than the lithium-ion type made popular by the Boeing 787 recently.

Quoting CaterBram Jnr: You could always go carbon here Those are from MOG (Joachim, at Westermann Motorsport).

Sorry that I cannot help with any answers, but I will follow this thread with interest.

A slim quarter keg of beer and a sawzall should just about take care of it... sounds like a party!

First thing I would check is the earth behind the dash - mine is above the passenger knee area on a wiper motor mount or similar, IIRC (there are more than one, but this one helped my gauges). May need to loosen, scrape the paint underneath, apply a dab of conductive goo, and re-tighten. Edited by - BBL on 20 Mar 2013 18:47:20

Quoting elie boone: Yes you need a compressor and a presure regulator, you need about 1bar, further you need a old reservoir cap where youdriil a 5mm hole in it. Open 1 bleed nipple connect a tube to it to collect the old brake fluid Insert the gun in the modifyed reservoir cap and apply pressure it doesn't take long before you will see bubles, the you stop and do they rest of the bleed nipples. Sounds just like a Speedi-Bleed! edit -- not "Seedi-Bleed", though I like that name as well. Edited by - BBL on 7 Mar 2013 16:49:38