BBL

My car (Freestyle superwide) came with an inboard ARB, but it broke after about a year. I removed it, and been running without one ever since.

I have a BGH on the back of a 2.3 Duratec, and the gearbox is not too noisy. It clatters a bit when idling in neutral, but that is no longer heard when either of the pedals to the side are depressed. Biggest issue for me is that it frequently doesn't want to go into reverse without a fight, but then sometimes it does.

Mine have done this too, and while I was able to mostly restore them, I now fear getting the wings wet. I simply don't take the car on the road whenever it appears there may be a chance of rain. The good news is, this doesn't happen all that often.

From the 7 owners I have talked to with LiFePO4 batteries, the trick in cold weather is to turn on the headlights for 10-12 seconds first to warm up the battery, then turn them off and start the car. Or so I have been told - this is not my own first-hand experience, as my PC625 is still going strong.

I purchased a package of pre-charged Eneloop batteries which contained a four-place charger, 2x AAA, 8x AA, 2x C-sized shells, and 2x D-sized shells. Found this at Costco shortly after this thread was started, but a quick search shows the same (or equivalent) package can be found today at various web-based shops, at least in the U.S.A., and likely in the U.K. as well. edit -- Yes Roger, Panasonic bought Sanyo.

Does Avon still make the ACB10? That sounds like it would tick all the boxes for what you're after: increased grip, progressive, but still light weight (although it is bias ply construction, so would likely require a change to your set-up).

I went to an unveiling ceremony for the Zenos in San Jose, California last night, as the U.S. distributor just took delivery of their first car. It had ZZRs, but I can't remember if they were 15s or 16s? My current R888s are due to be replaced, and I'm thinking I'll get either ZZRs or CR500s for the next set (in 13" size).

Ain't broke - don't fix!

No, I don't. Checked on a co-worker's computer and saw the same photo, posted here for reference.

Search Google Maps for "Yosemite Arch Rock Entrance", and hover mouse or click on the result. I snapped the photo in 2014 June, but don't know how it came to appear on G-Maps?

Plugging in your numbers above on willtheyfit.com yields the following: Front: 195/45-16 diameter is 556.5mm 175/55-13 diameter is 522.7mm Difference: 33.8mm, which equates to a 16.9mm lower ride height in the front on the 13s. Rear: 195/45-16 diameter is 556.5mm (again!) 205/55-13 diameter is 555.7mm Difference: 0.8mm, which equates to a 0.4mm lower ride height in the rear on the 13s. Ride height is easily adjusted with the collars on the dampers. You will want to specify your car to have the dampers to have the ride height adjusting collars (or whatever the trade name for these might be). When I went through this decision, I read posts with lots of opinions on either side. It seemed to me that generally, those who went with larger wheels (14", 15", 16") did so primarily for aesthetic reasons, and those who went with the smaller wheels (13") did so primarily for performance reasons. On my own 7, I have only ever known 13s, so my opinion will be of little value here. Best of luck, sir. -Sean

Mine came with the Cheesman exhaust, with the bung in one of the primaries, but it proved difficult to access during mapping (hot!), so I had another welded into the collector specifically for mapping. Easy cheesy, or similar.

I have been considering getting Cibie H4 lamps and maybe even re-wiring my headlight system as per http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html. Haven't yet done it though, because the 5.75" set-up I currently have doesn't seem that bad to me.

Harry - just shy of 19,000 miles so far with no issues. edit -- Now watch, it'll fail next week! Ian - Both your garage and your car appear to be very clean! Best of luck, sir.

Uh, I don't know! Ordered gearbox from BGH Geartech (through Gary at Freestyle), and the gearbox arrived with the bellhousing, clutch slave cylinder, and related hardware plumbed and installed (I added the O2 bung in the lid for ease of filling). It works well, as this set-up allows for initial filling and subsequent bleeding of the clutch hydraulics easily. But I do not know the manufacturer or any specifics of this unit.

Here is a photo of the way my clutch release was laid out: http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/7%20Build%20Issues/7CRBplumbing.jpg And here is how it looks from the outside (Titan BH on Type9 'box): http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn384/BBL-Sean/7%20Build%20Issues/Gboxtop1.jpg

I should clarify: This offer would of course apply to any of the MT who have persevered through the recent difficult development period and associated criticisms, but particularly to Shaun_E as he has been the brave soul who stepped forward as the 'face' of the MT during this time and addressed the nay-sayers and the hard questions. Bravo, sir! Also, I believe it was photos of Shaun_E's blue 7 way back when that motivated me to create a similar looking one, now in my garage.

Search box now DOES work as advertised! Good work.

Well done, Shaun! If you ever find yourself near San Jose, California, I'll buy you a pint or two. -Sean

A search for zxcvb yielded zero results. So much for that theory. GJT, I owe you an apology, sir. Any ideas?

zxcvb If my theory holds, a search for zxcvb will show this thread in the result, immediately.

Post #1 text is recognized instantly, every time I have tried. Subject lines and subsequent posts are never recognized, every time I have tried. Deduce from this what you will.

A search for the term "kafloop" yields zero results. Seems obvious that search looks only at post #1 of any threads in the forum, to the exclusion of even the subject line of the thread.

Post # 2: kafloop

Test to see if the search function can find a word in the subject line when that word is not in post #1 of the thread... edit -- FAIL!