MADMALC
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Everything posted by MADMALC
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I understand that they are Caterham specific so no other source for standard rubber hoses. If you find differently please let me know as the latest set I have from Caterham are of very poor quality compare to my originals from 1998. S7MAD
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If you are going to use it and you have a heater leave it on. If the temperature rises put the blower on as well to assist the cooling. It may just help. S7MAD
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Is this when the car is at a standstill or on the move. My SLR runs at about 80, goes a little above sometimes but drops back quickly to 80. If stood it will go up to approx 100, fan cuts in and it goes back to 85ish and repeats the cycle. S7MAD
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Cheers, part No. now in my 'system'. S7MAD
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Hi Alex, Awe as it was not my car. Fear for sure if had been mine. 😬 S7MAD
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Caterham would be my first call. As I understand yours is the later type as mine is just a plain roller. If there is any wobble in this I would be very fearful of running the engine till replaced. I have a parts diagram of it and it is labeled 'Pump Belt Idler Pulley'. It is retained by an 'Idler Spindle Circlip' on the 'Idler Pulley Spindle' with final clamping with an 'Idler Pulley Nut'. Hope the above is of some help. S7MAD
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I have used the threaded jaw type to good effect. A little care is needed to avoid damaging the rubber. If I have to split this again on the Caterham I will try the hitting the casting with a punch. I stood in awe as a Caterham Midlands mechanic did one. He hit it very very hard with another mechanic pulling up. Just popped off. S7MAD
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As above plus cable ties are good as is tank tape. I have my old top and bottom hoses on board as well. At least two of us going to Scotland will have folding bucket, shampoo and leathers on board. How sad is that? But clean cars go so much better than dirty ones, don't they? S7MAD
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Check that the hand brake cable is secure and not able to 'flap' about. If you have a rear anti roll bar check for play in the little rose joints, they tend to rattle when not under load if they are worn. A full spanner check would be good as well. S7MAD
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Was it broken when you took it off? If so the note below may not be what you wanted to hear. I remember when I built mine I installed the bar above the diff and later found it should be below. I could not get it out and had to drop the diff which was a bind. Others may know differnetly but I did try to remove it for ages before giving up. S7MAD
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I always jack on the cruciform with a large square of wood to spread the load. It is only loaded on there for a few seconds while I slip the axle stands into place. It looks very strong in that area. S7MAD
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The 'modern' view is new to the rear. The theory is that better grip on the rear will ultimately result in understeer which is considered 'safer' than oversteer. My view is the 'old fashioned' one so new on the front. My reason is if I get the front going where I want it it is up to ME to get the rear to follow. Obviously the 'modern' view assumes no driver skill and the 'old' view assumes lots of driver skill which is where I fall down. But still I do new on the front every time regardless of rear wheel drive or front. The choice is yours and yours alone. S7MAD
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I have the gold pump and a threaded adjusting system. Can you see a threaded bar going through the tensioner pulley mounting? If you do you have to slacken the small nut in the centre of the tensioner pulley. This allows the mounting to slide up and down the slot in the adjuster plate. To move the pulley up and down this slot you have to turn the threaded bar one way or the other. The threaded bar is fixed and the tensioner pulley is threaded so as you turn the threaded bar the pulley moves allong it. Later types are spring loaded and I understand you just pull them to release any tension and slip the belt on or off. Hope this helps. S7MAD
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Hi Dave I will let you know, but I find the Caterham part to be of 'variable' quality. I have had several (including one on my build when new) that had considerable play in them when new. S7MAD
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Is there a better/cheaper alternative to the Caterham supplied spherical joint? I ask as I find them of variable quality but high in price. I have googled ABWT10 with no luck. If I go to a local supplier what do I ask for to ensure good quality and the right size? Here's hoping. S7MAD
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That would be one just like you then David? *wavey* S7MAD
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I am with you now. My tensioner is flat and plastic so no issues for me when fitting it. S7MAD
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Not sure of exactly how your set up is, but, have you put the belt into the V of both pulleys first and then ease the back of the belt onto the tensioner wheel? My tesioner is flat faced and works agains the outside of the belt. If I put my belt over the tensioner 1st I know it will not go over the pulleys and into the v slot. Good luck and hope to see you one day. S7MAD
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Hi there again. My belt is 76 cm or 30 ins long. Bosch no 3pk760 or Unipart GMB30760. My pump is gold and is on a fixed adjuster not the spring type. Hope this helps S7MAD
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An 'Easy Bleed' will make things easier and more reliable than pumping. It is a good investment for life. If you fear the fluid going all over the place you can still use the 'Easy Bleed' just do not fill it with liquid. Just use the master cylinder reservoir and keep disconnecting and topping up. Mine did bed in a bit after a few hundred miles. S7MAD
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I have just been and had a look at mine which has been stood since October last year. When you look down the hole there appears to be very little in there but when I put my dip stick in it revaled a depth of 3.25 inches. You do need oil in there as I understand that the Rover internal pump draws from the bottom of this tank directly and the purple/gold scavange pump sucks the oil from the 'dry' sump pan and throws it back in to the top of the bell tank. S7MAD
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Hi there, If you get stuck you can have a look at my SLR in Yeadon any time after Wednesday. Will be at North and East Yorkshire meeting on Wednesday. Kind regatrds M S7MAD
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Agree with above. I have never found any 'bits' in my gauze. Best to find out what is wrong now and may be save some money in the long run. S7MAD
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The fuel 'going off' could be an urban myth as my Mini stood for 10 years with the same fuel in and started immediately once I had done all the prep as above. S7MAD
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Swap the senders over and see if they read the same then you will have the answer to 'do I have a duff sender'. Remember the oil temp is in the bottom of the dry sump tank so is not the hottest place in the engine. My oil temp is less than my water in normal driving and only goes up when giving it everything. S7MAD
