MADMALC

Mine has the 'Auto Reverse' feature and I have Avonride Service Manual and Spare Parts List which states the following: Symptom--Trailer Failing to auto reverse Most likely cause: Hitch incorrectly adjusted. Other causes: Hand brake on or partially on. Incorrectly adjusted brakes. It indicates that some hitches have a manual stop but I cannot see where it is. There should be a 2mm gap between the overrun lever and coupling drawbar. From the info I have here it is likely that it is the brakes that require adjustment at the hubs and then check that the 2mm clearance is correct. Hope this helps a little S7MAD

Thanks for the information. S7MAD

Worth getting some waxoil in the tube prior to fitting. Mine is as new on the inside and it is 12 years old. I love the stuff, even the smell. S7MAD

My tube is 10mm shorter than yours at 1151mm. Is your old one the same length as this new one? The extra length would be usefull for the ACB10's on the SLR rims as mine brush the watts linkage when deflected under high cornering loads. No big issue as it just polishes the arm but leaves no mark on the tyre. My tube is in very good condition apart from the pealing of one of the lower shocker mounts so I am going to repair it and put on the extra brace as shown on you photos. Very quick and easy to get the tube out, 12 fasteners including the brake pipe mount and the two lower anti-roll bar mounts, not even the need to disconect the brake pipes. Hope it goes back as easy. S7MAD

If you are replacing these you do not have to split the track rod joint which can be a bit of a bind. Just wind the joint of the steering arm by turning the arm, carefully count the number of turns till the rod falls off the track rod end. Take the old gaiter off and slide the new one on then re connect the track rod by screwing the arm back on the exact nunber of turn it took to disconnect it. The Caterham part is the one to use. S7MAD

Test S7MAD

Just found mine to be none servicable. Near side shocker mounting (Lower welded on type) tearing away from the dedeon tube from above. Not detached yet but can put my little finger in the hole. Found on inspection after renewing drive shaft boots on drivers side. I run my fingers round any handy welds when servicing and cleaning the car as a matter of habit. Just back from a Scotland so suspect that some rough potholed roads are to blame. It was fine just prior to the trip. The tube is rust free and clean with the paint in good order on the outside. It has been waxoiled on the inside from new. I think this failure is not due to corrosion but to inadequate strength at the point of the welded attachment of the lower shocker mounting tube. !998 Superlight R, 25,000 miles and built by myself. Has longer shockers and watts linkage. I think it is a 'Version 3' so no real surprise that it has failed. The car has been used enthusiastically but not abused. If you need any more info please let me know and I will be happy to oblige. S7MAD

Could be a future 'classic', keep it for 50 years and you could be in the money. Better than stocks and shares!!!!!! 🥰 S7MAD

I have now completed the job and confirm the following for others. Is the inner and the outer gaiter the same part? YES Can I replace both gaiters by just pulling the inner drive flange off the shaft? YES You can pull either end to bits and replace both gaiters. If I can do the above it appears there would be no need to undo the centre hub nut. Can I just undo the four hub carrier retaining bolts and slide the whole shaft out in one piece through the hole in the de-deion ear? NOT SURE If the drive shaft joints do not fit through the ears could I just undo the four ear mountings and achieve the same result? YES BUT it would make the shaft very awkward to work on so I did buy the socket and removed the nut. Just a warning: This is a messy job, the black grease seems to get everywhere so have plenty of cleaning cloths or newspaper available. The three legged spider is verry difficult to get off. I removed the roller bearings (ensure that you count them and know how they are assembled) and used heat and a heavy drift. It eventually gave in. Care needs to be taken so as not to damage the spider roller surfaces. If you lose your marks for replacement just ensure that it is replaced equally offset to the spider on the other end of the shaft. To ease fitting I heated the spider in our oven and soaked the shaft in ice and used a socket as a drift. It required serious hits to get it fully home. This was an interesting job and gave a degree of satisfaction when done. I will be much more confident if I need to do the other side. S7MAD

Hi Mark We can have a rummage on Wednesday if you are going. Love M S7MAD

Mine is underslung and touches the diff. I 2nd the split heater hose, worked for me. S7MAD

The round ones are like a tin can at each end of the shaft. They are completely smooth. I am in the middle of this job and it is a pain. Every thing is OK till you try to get the 3 legged spyder of the shaft. Just got mine off with loads of heat and lots of force. (big hammer and a drift) Good luck. ps the black grease seems to grow and appears to surface at random within a mile radius of the work area. S7MAD

I have an RPM MPH calculator that may be of help. My SLR on ACB10's will be doing 144mph at 8000rpm in 6th gear. Blatmail me and I will send it to you. You just put your details in and it gives the answer. S7MAD

I am about to do this and have a few questions before I start. Is the inner and the outer gaiter the same part? Can I replace both gaiters by just pulling the inner drive flange off the shaft? I perceive that I could fit the outer gaiter first using the 'fat' end first and then put the 'thin' end of the other gaiter on second. Alternatively is it possible to put the second one on inside out and then turn it the right way round once on the shaft? If I can do the above it appears there would be no need to undo the centre hub nut. Can I just undo the four hub carrier retaining bolts and slide the whole shaft out in one piece through the hole in the de-deion ear? If the drive shaft joints do not fit through the ears could I just undo the four ear mountings and achieve the same result? Any help and advice would be appreciated as I realise that if I do need to undo the 'big' nut this will be near impossible with the shaft on the bench. Plus I do not have the socket for the nut any way. PS What size is it if I do need to buy one? S7MAD

Spotted twice, sorry I was not quick enough to leap in the road and stop you for a chat. 😬 S7MAD

And so have you. S7MAD

I have one if you get stuck. Advert 25 June 2009. Do a search with RNLI. S7MAD

My standard VHPD has always 'shunted' from new. If you have no throttle and want to take up the drive at too low a speed it will not take it. You have to dip the clutch and take up the drive in the same gear just as if you had changed up in to it. Once the engine is under the smallest of loads it will pull as clean as a whistle. I have just got used to it and free wheel a lot in traffic. Hope this helps. S7MAD

Hi Dave How durable have these been as I have an outer boot to do? Do you get the fitting cone with the kit? Tried a blat mail but it did not work. Thanks in anticipation of your reply. S7MAD

That would have been us on our way to the 'electric brae' and lunch in Straiton. 😬 S7MAD

Back safe but no work for me, just cleaning the car, life is good. 🥰 S7MAD

oooops sorry. I quite like been beaten sometimes!!!!!!!!!! S7MAD

Hi Martin YUASA do a battery that is the same dimensions as the Banner. Mine is a '12N24-3' or 'YUA895/2. This has the terminals reversed so do not get this one, they do one with the terminals the right way round for the Caterham but I can not remember the number. It was easy to fit the 'wrong' battery to my car but it may not be on yours. If you do a 'tinternet' search I am sure you will find a local supplier, I got mine in Otley. If you need more info give me a ring and I will be pleased to help. S7MAD

Take much care with the bolts, they will strip very easily. They are almost finger tight so just a slight nip on a short lever. If one is already duff a helicoil should solve the problem. There is a rubber ring seal which sits in a groove but I do not think you can get replacements from CC any more. I use a little silicone sealant on mine but it still sweats a little. The only way to solve the problem is to take it off and see what you uncover. Good luck and have fun. S7MAD

I have one. The first one died but I think it was old stock. They gave me a new one immediately and this has been fine so far. They told me it had a two year warranty so for the money I am happy. S7MAD