MADMALC

Hi C, we can put my 'scangauge' on and see what it says. ps welcome home S7MAD

If it is broken at the pedal end you can slacken off fully at the engine end and gain some slack to facilitate a temporary fix. I kept mine as a spare as the new ones are an arm and a leg. I understand they are Rover parts, if it was for an SLR I could give you the part number. S7MAD

Glad you feel better now. If you do not find anything to cure it just try leaving a charger on the battery for an hour before starting to see if it helps. May be the battery is about to fail so it cranks but not enough juice left for the spark. Clutching at straws is my speciality. Have a good weekend. 😬 S7MAD

You looked a bit like 'billy no mates' so have a look at these pointers. Do you let the pump prime? You should hear it buzz and then stop. Do not touch the accelerator till the car has started. Give all the wiring connectors a good waggle and a shuv. You could try re setting the system. Ignition on but do not try to start. Slowly push the accelerator to the floor and release slowly. Do this 5 or 6 times. Turn ignition off. Count to ten and then start the engine in the normal way. Hope this helps to stimulate the brain *wavey* S7MAD

I would say that was a yes. ☹️ S7MAD

When I did mine I put the hand brake on, put it in 6th and got 'my female assistant' to stand on the brakes. The nut came off and I was able to torque it up correctly using the same method as well. I marked the bolt with tippex on re assembly. I do the same on the big drive shaft nuts as well. If they do move you can see at a glance what is happening. S7MAD

It may be helpful to know the voltage when cranking. The battery may appear good but actually be on it's way out. On my SLR I undid the wrapping on the loom to the solenoid and found some damage to the insulation. It gets hot down there. I re insulate and added some heat protection as well. Hope this helps. S7MAD

Lift the engine by using washers under the mountings. Every little helps. 2 dry sumps down so I should know. S7MAD

Can you lock the fronts up? If you can then may be some grippier tyres would help. 1144 is the way I went but more for feel and the lack of heat induced fade. S7MAD

I have the Haynes Service and Repair Manual for the Vauxhall Cavalier 1988 to 1995, but it makes no reference to the Turbo models. In the cam belt section it mentions both manual and auto tensioners. If you blat mail me I am happy to send you a copy of the relavant pages. S7MAD

For the locking tool try here http://www.drapertools.com/b2c/b2cbrowse.pgm and then ring: Darnall Tools- They are in the Members Deals list so mention the club if you need anything. Up to 40% off Draper tools at up to 40% off list price. Go to www.draper.co.uk choose what you want, note the catalogue number and description, then order. Tel: 0114 2448606 darnalltools@btconnect.com Hope this helps. S7MAD

If you can tell me a Vauhall model and year that had this engine I can have a look and see if I have a Haynes Manual for it. If I do I can send the info to you if you blat mail me. S7MAD

See sellers other items for more books. S7MAD

He also has some 7 books if you look at his 'other items' S7MAD

Check to see if you have the 'bolted in' removable upper engine bay diagonals. If you have, note their position and take them out. When I fitted my engine it went in with all the ancilliaries attached, including the Rover throttle bodies. It is a tight fit at the front but it just comes out if the angle of your dangle is correct. I have a 'load leveler' if you need it plus some attaching brackets and bolts for the chains. Do not forget the speedo drive, it is delicate. If you can not undo it in situe remember to do it when the engine and gearbox are half way out. (Same when you refit it) Also take the reverse gear light switch out. It is easy to snap it off when jiggling. Yes you need the gear lever out so the tunel top has to come off. As said above it is usually just a push fit with two self tappers at the rear. Good luck, have fun. S7MAD

You have a little more mail! 😬 S7MAD

Charlie you have mail. S7MAD

Remember you do not need any force to separate the drive shaft from either of the ends, it is just held by turning over the ends of the tin cans. When the tin can is new it is straight at the wide end. S7MAD

When you fit it you put the narrow end over the drive shaft and then push the inner drive shaft up to the spring. You then have to hold it there and tap the outer edge of the tin can over the inner drive shaft. Sorry not a good description. The tin can is bent over at the wide end and this is all that stops the two parts from coming apart. If you look carefully you will see how it is bent over. If you need more info please feel free to give me a ring on 07904516651. I am not at home so cannot send you a picture of the Haynes manual, sorry. S7MAD

I see from you post when I was typing that you only want to split them so just cut the tin can off. An angle grinder or large hacksaw and some pealing will do the job. You will then need a new can which come in the gaiter repair kit which is a Ford part. Sorry not at home to get the number but James Whiting supplied mine. Enjoy. S7MAD

Have you removed the 'tin can'? When this is removed the inner shaft separates from the longer drive shaft bit. There is a spring in there but not under much load plus the plastic thrust washer/spacer. You should then have a three point spyder with a needle roller bearing on each spider firmly attached to the long drive shaft bit. I removed these bearings and stored carefully. The needle rollers are a bu55er to keep, but count them prior to removal so you know you have them all. On my car, a 1998, the spider had to be driven off the shaft. Much heat and energy in the shape of a cold chissle and a lump hammer. Take care not to damage the 3 bearing surfaces. Any buring on the shaft or splines can be fettled. There were no circlips visible or hidden. The Haynes manual says circlips but I had none. Purely an interference fit. Please note that you should try and note where the spder is fitted as it should be put back on the same splines. If you lose the position you will have to expose the opposite spider and alligne the opposit one at 60 deg to the other. ie they are offset equally. Try and keep the rubber gaiter clips intact in case you need them. The replacements I got with the Ford gaiter kit were too narrow for the Caterham drive shafts. The black grease is a nightmare. No matter how hard you try to contain it you will be unsuccessful. It will appear anywhere within a 300 mile radius of the work area, you have been warned. Get plenty of newspaper and cleaning cloths at the ready. This is the worst job I have undertaken in my 60 years but the degree of satisfaction when you get it back to gether in some way compensates. I have a feeling if I do have any further problems in the drive shaft area that I will stump up for a complete new driveshaft and sod the expense. And I am a seriously tight a----d Yorkshireman. You have been warned. S7MAD

Nip in on your way home from work to look at mine, in all evening from 5:15 on. S7MAD

I know a man who can tell you what it is like if you forget, and go round Cadwell in very heavy rain with the fronts 'the wrong way round'. Thankfully it was only his laundry bill that went through the roof!!!!!!!!!! S7MAD

Nick means that it is mounted below the diff but is attached to the bottom the lower chassis rail and not above it as is shown in my build manual. It hangs below the floor line. It looks in grave danger of hitting the road under full compression. My A frame front (outer) mountings have occasionally touched the road and the bar on Nicks car is way below this. Sorry to but in Nick but I think others may be confused over the word 'de-deon'. Please all come back and confirm that it is 'normal' to mount the brackets 'hanging' from the chassis. S7MAD

Mine has a small grub screw at the bottom. Remove this and then use a screw driver blade to prize the ring away from the bowl, starting near the grub screw hole. Take care not to dent the metal. S7MAD