MADMALC
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Everything posted by MADMALC
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Will have a look in the morning and report back.
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I understand that the oil you use is critical. Main dealers will use the right stuff but independants may not be as clued up. With my Volvo the main dealer can check the level of the dpf fluid so I am sure others will be able too as well. If you ask for the level every service it will give you an idea how 'you' are using it. This will help you not to run out. They don't like it if you run out, limp mode is engaged and the bill goes up.
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❗ 🤔
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On my SLR No27 with standard engine I used 'ordinary' fuel for the road and 'super' for sprinting or sustained 'brisk' road use. The main differences I noted was that 'popping and banging' on the over run was considerably reduced with 'super'. The throttle pick up was also crisper with 'super'. I never noticed any decernable difference in actual performance. Hope this helps.
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My car (1998) did not have the brackets, if yours does then they are the ones to use. If you have to use the main belt mounts as I did the strap also comes out over the seat squab. It can be awkward to get the seat to go fully back as the extra width of the mounts gets in the way but with a little careful manuvering it is possible. Edited by - MADMALC on 18 Mar 2013 14:40:32
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That is how I attached mine, make sure the bolt is long enough to fully engage the threads in the captive nut.
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Old school but not strictly pc. Mini wheel bearings always seemed to be slightly under size, so it was out with the punch and 'damage' the hub seating. Then tap the bearing in over the damage which would create a key. Those were the days! 😬
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YHM 🥰
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If you do get the bolt out and use the tube again I would suggest having the strengthening fillets fitted as well.
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A few bits to help my post Shelsley Walsh rebuild...
MADMALC replied to Richard Price's topic in For Sale
I have 3 of the manifold pipes for the SLR, mail me if they are of interest. -
yhm
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My build manual shows and car (1998) had a steel washer next to the A bracket followed by the nylon 'race' washer next to the DD Tube, same on both sides. If the washers are not fitted then I would think that the A frame tubing will bend when tightening the nut. As I understand it, for my car at least, is that the steel washers are essential and the nylon race washers are optional. The steel washers butt onto the central tube in the bush on either side and are clamped by the A frame. If you need the washer dimensions I can get them in the morning.
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Due to a serious back condition an ex club member has a ticket available. It is for Thursday , Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Also included is a grandstand ticket for Sunday. The ticket is in Filey, North Yorkshire but he will send it out regisered post. He is looking for £100. (It cost him £162) Regards M Edited by - MADMALC on 25 Jun 2012 09:17:07
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Jochen you have mail.
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I have the following that are available free for collection from Filey North Yorkshire. ACB10 8.0/22.0 X13 SPORT 10036 (normal road) over 3mm ACB10 8.0/22.0 X13 SPORT 10036 (normal road) over 4mm ACB10 7.0/21.0 X13 CATERHAM 10035 (normal road) 3mm ACB10 7.0/21.0 X13 CATERHAM 10035 (normal road) 2 to 3mm ACB10 7.0/21.0 X13 CATERHAM 10035 never used approx 5mm on a new tyre All are e marked and road legal. They have been stored in the dark for some time but they appear to be in good condition. Mad Malc
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Hi madmaninshed, Always willing to negotiate, but as you suggest, this may be a compromise too far. 😬 kind regards
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S7MAD registration number on rentention with assignment fee paid. Must be one of the better ones. £1,000
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Vinnie have you taken the 'tin can' off? You have to destroy it to get it off, the gaiter kit has a replacement included. On my 1998 car there were NO circlips and I had to use much brute force and heat to remove the 'spyder'.
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Can you not create a cover for it and fit it for the mot. If it is securely covered then you 'can not use it whilst driving'.
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Virden, yes clockwise to stiffen. I had the standard springs but I think the principle will be the same. I used to go fully stiff and then count the clicks back. The clicks at the soft end were very indistinct.
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Are your spax adjustable? They usually were. If so ensure the settings are not too stiff. I used a very soft setting on the front and quite stiff on the rear. There is little weight on the front suspension to control but the rear axle is very heavy and I found needed much more stiffness to control it. From memory, 2 clicks front and 10 rear. Worth a play as it will not cost you anything. Have fun
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What front suspension does your car have? The type with the anti-roll bar as one of the top links , in my experience, always displays some steering effect under very hard braking particularly on uneven surfaces.
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SLR rims are bare ally. You just have to be very sad and keep up to them.
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I understand they are 'Engine Restraints', they restrict the movement of the engine if the rubber fails.
