Richard Price

Rob, Are these what you're looking for? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191539042161?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3D357cc6e0d1cd4ecc9f822249c1b9b45b%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D191539042161%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3Acc3ab37118e0a8d9e7740282ffffc0b8|pageci%3Ac89301d4-f7db-11ee-a93b-72628a1c79f2|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage

'still for sale, and reduced to £22,500

I can't accurately quote championship regulations from that time, but, I doubt Martin Phipps can really offer too much either. (the result is very likely to come back saying that a "race" chassis was sold to a race team, who then built it into what ever was required by their customer). Whilst the DeDion "road" chassis changed from the under the dash hand brake, to the now standard tunnel mounted hand brake at around 1996, the "Race" chassis retained the under the dash hand brake until 2001, so a 97 race chassis should have an under the dash hand brake (along with an extra diagonal in the floor under the seats) Whilst 2001 (2001 being the first year that Academy cars were K series cars) and onwards "academy" cars were often upgraded to "Roadsport" race spec, that spec changed dramatically over the years, as the owners progressed through the various factory race series. (with 2002 + 2003 being a particular sweet spot where the basic spec was 1600 supersport, with a "competition" long four branch exhaust, 6 speed 'box, and LSD. (however, many cars also had the optional dry sump and/or Stack dash upgrades). I'm a little less clear on the original spec of the race cars from 97, but with a little research I found a few clips of video showing 98 Roadsport race cars running Avon ACB10 tyres. ACB10's are crossply tyres, so, if the car that you're looking at is in its original spec, it should be set with less camber to suit crossply tyres (easy on the front, but different dedion ears at the back). Roadsport race cars of that time will have run with a full windscreen and wipers. (where the later cars ran with a single aero screen) However, unless the car that you're looking at has remained absolutely as it was raced, its very unlikely to remain in exactly the same spec as it was originally. I'm fairly confident that a 97 Roadsport race car would have been the nominal 135bhp "Supersport" spec 1600 ,which is a change of cams and ECU with the rev limit increased from 6800 to 7600 RPM, whilst not actually specified, many 1600 supersport 1600's may have also been upgraded to include forged pistons. 6 speed is easy to confirm, but the LSD may be less easy to check without removing drive shafts.... around that time the factory supplied either the ZF LSD (where, if the car is jacked up, and one wheel turned by hand, the other wheel will turn in the same direction), or, the AP suretrac which was actually a torque biasing diff rather than a true LSD (where, if the car is jacked up, and one wheel turned by hand, the other wheel will turn in the opposite direction, just like an open diff). Rather than getting too concerned about what spec it was originally, I'd be more concerned with exactly what spec it is in right now, and its condition. I think there are very few 7's that remain unmodified in any way in over 25 years...

I'm pretty sure the period sales brochures quoted 3.92 final drive, as the original R500 max revs was over 9k (over 1000rpm more than the SLR), even though the max revs was later reduced to less than 9k rpm. On the original 22" ACB10's, 8600rpm would still equate to a theoretical more than 140mph (where a 3.62 diff would have been over 10mph greater, but it would have taken more than the quoted 235bhp to get there.....)

Ainsley, I don't actually have that detail to hand as the car stands now. I do have some numbers from when the car was run as a hillclimb car without lights, no passenger seat, with small fuel tank, and on slick tyres, but don't remember how heavy Tom would have been as the car was on the scales. I think the weight of the car would likely to have been around 430kg ish.

For anyone looking for more than 620R performance for considerably less money, this car is still available.

Graham, your thinking is close to correct. Yes, it is quite likely that a proportion of the high current would flow if the resistance was low enough. However, the resistance of most car looms, in practice is noticeably higher than you may assume. As this thread is really about a car with a non engine standard installation, its also likely to have a loom that has been modified. Sadly, I've worked on a few cars that have had looms modified to suit different engines, ECU's, or instrument layouts, some of which I'm surprised they ever worked at all! However, We're going off topic here. Sadly, unless the OP can find a "friend" (who really knows what he's looking at), I suspect it my take hours of investigation to identify what the root cause of these issues is before being able to sort it out.

Generally, a wiring loom is tied to ground (the chassis) at various points of the loom. Typically, the largest current is drawn by the starter motor, with a large cable from the battery to the starter motor, and grounding through the engine, then with another large cable from the engine back to the battery. However, an engine/car loom is also likely to have several smaller earth cables also connected to the engine and other exposed metal. If that main earth strap from the engine to battery is faulty in any way, then the starter motor current would try to use any alternative path back to the battery. Those smaller cables, in the worst case, may then act like a fuse, and simply burn up! To burn up tracks in something like a Tacho, may only take a comparatively small but greater than the design current to flow to cause damage. The car in question may have wiring that has been "adapted" at some point as a 2005 Duratec with a DTA ECU predates any factory Duratec cars.

Graham, Does the solder actually melt on the offending part? Id not, it may be that you're not actually getting that part hot enough? What sort of power is your soldering iron? The iron needs to be able to heat the work piece, and then solder melt on the work piece rather than the iron.

Oops. I posted the wrong link. I meant to post a link for shorter lengths, here:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325005613591?hash=item4babd81a17:g:WDgAAOSwIxVci5lJ

I’ve used ALM for thin wall wiring for loom modifications and additions. They normally have a great range of sizes and colour combinations. https://www.almsolutions.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3_60 for small orders they also list on EBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223153994869?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=caMWM9FeReK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Qgzwi6arT4e&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Remove the head rests. If you have pockets, they need to be custom fitted to suit your seat position. You should also be aware that a tonneau normally has the poppers fitted to suit the popper bases that are fitted to the car, but the positions of those bases may not the the same from car to car. Therefore, a tonneau that has already had poppers fitted, may not actually fit on your own car correctly.

Posting on behalf of my son Tom. See the Pistonheads listing here:- https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/15921855

Billy, If for any reason you don't take Paul's, I also have tonneau for an SV that has never been fitted. Just like this:- https://caterhamparts.co.uk/tonneau-covers/1026-tonneau-cover-sv-standard-vinyl.html?search_query=TONNEAU+&results=31 I'd also like half CC's asking price. Regards Richard

Dom, You should have blatmail.