Rob D.

Just to finish this off - i found this company eventually as I needed 4mm diameter and the ebay and amazon shops only carried 6mm for M/C fairings. https://shop.southco.com/en_gb/ Thanks

many thanks - I think they are.

Thanks Jonathan. Mine have a (highly inconvenient) 5mm hex drive on, I think that ITG may use the clips you have identified on there products, which explains why I can't see them on their website. Thanks for your efforts as ever. Rob.

Greetings, See attached File Does anyone know if you can still get these fixings from ITG (I have reached out to them, but no answer yet) or does anyone have a hack or an alternative supply route ? I'm missing one which means the foam seal doesn't quite compress. No interest in spending money to change the filter system or back plate for the sake of a missing screw. Many thanks for any feedback or suggestions. Regards Rob. itg_fixings.pdf

Radtech are excellent, great customer service too. Just make sure you use blue coolant, I experienced two rounds of leaks using orange over the course of two years. Radtech offered service exchange and repairs even paid for the shipping at their cost. Zero issues since switching to a blue coloured product.

Thanks guys - looks like I need to spend more time on Blat Chat !

Good evening, Has Anyone seen the dates for the Fish and Chip run yet please ?

Hi - I had the same problem - I wasn't aware of this Oxted option, so just went to a foam shop - cut the rough shape needed, used impact adhesive to glue it in place, left it for a day and then re-stretched the leather over. It looks a proper job. Regards Rob.

Ah shucks - I was there at 0930..... Glad to see a fellow Seven fan also enjoying some Sussex cycling. Some great routes around.

Could of been me. - but there's a lot of them about !

There's some great advice in this thread. I'll throw in my two pennies: With my K VHPD+ Emerald. I leave the Immobiliser switched on and crank the engine until I see good pressure. After a winter lay up and in British spring climate, this can be 3-6 seconds. Once you see decent pressure register, turn off the Immobiliser and begin ignition. I understand that the reason to remove the plugs after a lay up is to reduce compression ratio and therefore remove loading on the bearings, but in my personal opinion this is not needed if you believe you have oil film present, which you should have, even after a complete re-build as you would "hand oil" each bearing during assembly. Now if someone can tell me how to predict when I need to replace my main bearings without an intervention - that would be fantastic. Rgds Rob

Hi Si, Has your car always had that state of tune or is this a recent upgrade ? Regards Rob.

I wrapped my headers last summer, as under bonnet temperatures on my VHPD SLR were giving problems with the engine cutting out after spirited summer track day laps in the absence of a cool down lap. I just wanted to cover the first bends and stop before exiting the engine bay. The wrapping was simple - worth watching few Youtube videos, buy extra stainless steel cable ties for mid-point security, don't rush and be prepared to re-start. The high temp spray paint is critical to harden and secure the material, I did an entire can on a four branch header - but could of easily done a can and a half. The car hasn't stalled in hot weather, you can't see the wrap from outside of the car, and it's not un-wound. Hope that helps - Rob.

The ally' can is actually quite thin gauge and is given rigidity by the stainless perforated pipe that runs through. I've been really happy with it so far but on a recent track day then I managed to crack the bottom - not through grounding or impact - just fatigue cracks as a result of long duration at full beans. I think I might just add a new skin to the bottom and repair it that way as other options seem to involve new 4-2-1 pipes and approx 1200 quid. It would be nice to have a nice new exhaust system though.