Rob D.

Just to finish this off - i found this company eventually as I needed 4mm diameter and the ebay and amazon shops only carried 6mm for M/C fairings. https://shop.southco.com/en_gb/ Thanks

many thanks - I think they are.

Thanks Jonathan. Mine have a (highly inconvenient) 5mm hex drive on, I think that ITG may use the clips you have identified on there products, which explains why I can't see them on their website. Thanks for your efforts as ever. Rob.

Greetings, See attached File Does anyone know if you can still get these fixings from ITG (I have reached out to them, but no answer yet) or does anyone have a hack or an alternative supply route ? I'm missing one which means the foam seal doesn't quite compress. No interest in spending money to change the filter system or back plate for the sake of a missing screw. Many thanks for any feedback or suggestions. Regards Rob. itg_fixings.pdf

Radtech are excellent, great customer service too. Just make sure you use blue coolant, I experienced two rounds of leaks using orange over the course of two years. Radtech offered service exchange and repairs even paid for the shipping at their cost. Zero issues since switching to a blue coloured product.

Thanks guys - looks like I need to spend more time on Blat Chat !

Good evening, Has Anyone seen the dates for the Fish and Chip run yet please ?

Hi - I had the same problem - I wasn't aware of this Oxted option, so just went to a foam shop - cut the rough shape needed, used impact adhesive to glue it in place, left it for a day and then re-stretched the leather over. It looks a proper job. Regards Rob.

Ah shucks - I was there at 0930..... Glad to see a fellow Seven fan also enjoying some Sussex cycling. Some great routes around.

Could of been me. - but there's a lot of them about !

There's some great advice in this thread. I'll throw in my two pennies: With my K VHPD+ Emerald. I leave the Immobiliser switched on and crank the engine until I see good pressure. After a winter lay up and in British spring climate, this can be 3-6 seconds. Once you see decent pressure register, turn off the Immobiliser and begin ignition. I understand that the reason to remove the plugs after a lay up is to reduce compression ratio and therefore remove loading on the bearings, but in my personal opinion this is not needed if you believe you have oil film present, which you should have, even after a complete re-build as you would "hand oil" each bearing during assembly. Now if someone can tell me how to predict when I need to replace my main bearings without an intervention - that would be fantastic. Rgds Rob

Hi Si, Has your car always had that state of tune or is this a recent upgrade ? Regards Rob.

I wrapped my headers last summer, as under bonnet temperatures on my VHPD SLR were giving problems with the engine cutting out after spirited summer track day laps in the absence of a cool down lap. I just wanted to cover the first bends and stop before exiting the engine bay. The wrapping was simple - worth watching few Youtube videos, buy extra stainless steel cable ties for mid-point security, don't rush and be prepared to re-start. The high temp spray paint is critical to harden and secure the material, I did an entire can on a four branch header - but could of easily done a can and a half. The car hasn't stalled in hot weather, you can't see the wrap from outside of the car, and it's not un-wound. Hope that helps - Rob.

The ally' can is actually quite thin gauge and is given rigidity by the stainless perforated pipe that runs through. I've been really happy with it so far but on a recent track day then I managed to crack the bottom - not through grounding or impact - just fatigue cracks as a result of long duration at full beans. I think I might just add a new skin to the bottom and repair it that way as other options seem to involve new 4-2-1 pipes and approx 1200 quid. It would be nice to have a nice new exhaust system though.

Hi All, I have a 1999 SLR with a K series. The car was fitted with a Aluminum outer main body can with stainless steel end caps (2.25" inlet). It has a distinct flat bottom to the exhaust body. Do any of you exhaust aficionados know the brand ? - It's not a Raceco as I've been in touch with them. Many thanks Rob.

All, I bought some LED lights from Amazon - They are searchable under HARLEY DAVIDSON LED LIGHT - I replaced the whole unit as I also had a cracked glass. £140 for the pair - also felt these were good value. as they have a circular ring daylight running light. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Headlight-Daymaker-Lights-Davidson-Motorcycle/dp/B06XJNCH3R/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=Harley+Davidson+lights&qid=1583747756&sr=8-7 Top Tip - don't install upside down - you'll make folks angry. /sites/default/files/images/users/43382/large_IMG_0825_0.JPG Regards Rob

Tom - Thank you Sir. Much appreciated.

Hi Stu, Thanks for the fast and accurate feedback - I'm going to combine yours and DA's advice. Looks like I also need to figure out a support for them, do you know if anyone has any photo's of successful support brackets ? - Also - Whilst you're there...... I sent in a photo of my SLR last year for the register along with it's number and it's not yet appeared on the www site. Is the web version not being maintained any longer ? - I see you might have switched or duplicated to instagram. Thank you. Rob

Thanks very much - that's exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for. I will send you an e-mail about the gasket. Any thoughts on the foam filter for the Idle control valve - or just make one ? Thank you. Rob.

Hi, 3 part question for you all. 1) I want to remove the inlet manifold from the head to access the dry sump filter head as I need to fabricate a new bracket, but the top two cap head screws are obscured by a cast rail (looks removable - but I will then need more gaskets) that prevents me from getting an Allen socket in with decent engagement. - I wanted to remove the whole assembly in one go as it's functioning well and in good order. Anyone got any advice or hacks please ? 2) Anyone know the part number, sell them or know where to buy the gasket I need Swan neck to cyl head ? 3) Anyone know the part number for the IACV foam filter ? Many thanks for any help. Rob.

Simon, Also got black flagged in the middle and penultimate session despite having had a 20 quid faux silencing device fitted to my pipe in the pits. I think I was holding the gears a little to long and also believe that the packing was sub-standard in my well used Raceco exhuast. I'm repacking it this week and will then see how noisy it is. Also couple of other observations - Pre track day I tested my exhaust using a calibrated noise meter at 75% of throttle and at 500 mm distance form the exhaust (92dBA). At Brands - they seemed to place the probe in the exhaust - which is a massive difference. Still - a great day out before the noise issues and my dry sump cracking. Cheers Rob.

Dave, Thanks for the pictures and the assistance wit the loan tools for the broken Alternator mount. Cheers Rob.

Just for Search info really. If anyone needs the Caterham Green then this is the code from Caterham Dartford. AM32 277 AM43 399 AM 6 478 AM1 488 AK100 997

https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/Differentials-Parts-/33731