MADMALC
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Everything posted by MADMALC
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All the above, but leave the plugs out while you crank the starter. Do it in short bursts till oil pressure registers. S7MAD
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Hi Alex You are correct, when it was new we used to get a little bit woooooooooosy in the summer. I give it a top up every year, I think we must be addicted to the stuf! S7MAD
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I agree with watering down with white spirit. Using it neat is wasteful and difficult. Hand held trigger sprays left over from the home work well with watered down waxoil. They do fail regularly but just get her indoors to pass them on when empty to assure a good supply for stock. It will always be tacky. It is a 1St Class product and works. Our Mini has at least 15 litres sloshing about in and on it and it is now 18 years old with no signe of rust. I would be reluctant to weld it if it did need some work as I think it is more like a candle than a car and would burn forever. S7MAD
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I had the same problem many years ago (1998) on 'big' brakes, Caterham replaced both calipers FOC at the post build check. Give them a ring on Monday and I am sure they will sort you out. S7MAD
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I use 'back to black' but it does turn your fingers black as well. S7MAD
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http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/ Try the above for fault code identification. S7MAD
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Stuart I will take the Haynes book if it is still available, it will go with the other 130 I have!!! Let me know how much for the post and will sort it. S7MAD
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There are two sump designs, Caterham Midlands explained them to us. If I remember correctly on early engines you can not just drop the sump off as it is partly retained by other fittings at the front of the engine. S7MAD
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Hi Paul The heater hose is the same on my SLR. It is very tight down there but once it is on it seems to be OK. My oil temperature sender is in the the side of the dry sump tank (bell housing type). There is a threaded bit for it that had a blanking bolt in when supplied. Hope this helps. S7MAD
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My two builds had the engine and gearbox fitted into the rollong shell. This makes the job easier as you can move the car back and forth as required. The rear diff and suspension need to be done prior to fitting engine and box. Would be surprised if the current build manual wanted you to fit the engine prior to all the suspension, brakes and drive shafts being fitted. Hope this helps S7MAD
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Hood won't fit, cracked my windscreen trying!
MADMALC replied to Gingerbread Man's topic in TechTalk
You could slacken off the 4 windscreen retaining bolts prior to tensioning the hood to see if you get a little more slack. You could then retighten the 4 bolts with the hood up to keep the position. Warmth is the main helper though. S7MAD -
It is easy to do but makes you a bit nervous. Loads of room to work. I put mine in 6th gear and had Shirley standing on the brakes with the hand brake on as well while I undid the nut. Same for tightening. Worth investing in the cam locking tool. Draper do one and it is not expensive. Very satisfying when it all goes to plan, but take your time and double check everything. S7MAD
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I understand that the gold pump sucks harder than the purple one. Gold was standard on 'race' engines. My slr came with gold but a friends sl was on a purple one. S7MAD
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How old are the flexible pipes. Get someone to pump the pedal slowly but very firmly while you put your hand round the tubes. Feel for any expansion all along the pipes. Just an idea S7MAD
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I have the 'Dolly Sprint' Haynes manual along with well over 100 others, so yes I love them. Perhaps I should be 'Sad Malc'. S7MAD
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The pressure plate and friction plate are both on the outside off the flywheel, not the inside as on non verto clutches. Your google tip reveals that the pressure plate is a taper fit on the crank not the flywheel. I can now see why I have to pull the whole thing off. In effect I am pulling the pressure plate not the flywheel off the crank. Thanks for the guidance S7MAD
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Is this because the attachment bolts go from the rear of the flywheel to the pressure plate? S7MAD
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Can I replace just the friction plate without taking the flywheel off? I know the pressure plate and flywheel come as a matched pair but all my drawings appear to indicate that the pressure plate can be removed without removing the flywheel, thus exposing the friction plate. Any info from someone who has had this later type of clutch apart would be of help. Cheers in advance. S7MAD
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A little oil on a cloth will bring them back to life. Repeat application is required, once a year usually does it. S7MAD
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My cable stretched in use so I tied a knot in the end nearest the pedal. Works a treat and repeatable. Not exactly an engineering solution but it is cheap, just like me. S7MAD
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I too have some issues and looked on a manufacturers web site and was amased to find that they are considered a 'service' item. Life expectancy of 80,000 miles then hey presto another 'profit' opportunity for the dealer to go along with timing belts and brake discs. S7MAD
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I took off the chunk as per the instructions but my bar still just touched the diff. I put a piece of split heater hose round it at the point of contact to stop abbrasion and rattles. Works fine for me. S7MAD
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Have tried the clutch trick and it works sometimes but not all the time. But thanks for the info, very helpful and somewhat comforting. S7MAD
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How do you tell if it requires replacing? Would a metalic rattle coming from the general direction of the clutch housing when you turn off the engine be a clue? It is a 1.6 diesel and the rocking as the compression stops the engine seems to result in the noise. It sounds just like a heat shield been knocked but unfortunately it is not. It is under warranty but just a bit of a 🙆🏻 when it is brand new and has to be taken appart. Cheers S7MAD
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Has any one got a broken or unwanted F10 that is in the way. Just really after the mount and 12V lead for the seven. My original is a semi permanant fixture in Viktor Volvo. 07904516651 Cheers. S7MAD
