Casbar
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Everything posted by Casbar
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hi
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Think, it makes the track the same as the rear. I have narrow, so can't be sure
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You'll be warm in the winter though
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I've been using second hand radial slicks, from Michelin for the last 3 years. They are great, and I've not found any problems with them. They arn't quite as sticky as new slicks, but are fine for my standard of driving and track days. I got mine for £25 a corner. Oh and you don't need to change the de-dion ears as radials are radials
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I was advised it was a straight swap as well You only have to grind off a little of the excess on the tube, probably 2 mm. But you maybe lucky. Just check that the rears arn't rubbing.
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I fitted CXR's 6" front 7" rear. I think I went for 18 offset front and 24 rear. But I went with what Polley's recommended, so they should be able to advise of offsets. On the rear, I had to angle grind the de-dion tube off a little. And you also have to be careful where the balance weights are fitted, if you have big brakes.
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I fitted Leda dampers which I bought from James Whitting. You can also buy them direct. They worked really well
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I like more feel in the pedal, so left my standard m/c on, and they work great
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With a tyre rack and 4 tyres, and car on the front stops, mine weighs around 90kg. But as Peter said, if I move the stops one set of holes down the bed, the weight goes down. But you need nose weight to enable the trailer to tow correctly. Just cut a piece of wood the same height as the tow ball and stick some bathroom scales under the wood and then stick the lot under the tow hitch of the trailer and lower the jockey wheel and weigh the nose weight :)
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I've just had another look at my front uprights, and I don't seem to have any spacers, the bottom of the wishbone just sits in the bearing
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My narrow track car doesn't have a spacer, its a 98 chassis, or if there is one, I missed it, when I did my bushes last year
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I bought some Compomotive CXR's a couple of years ago for my slicks, 6" front 7" rears, been so pleased with them, thinking of buying some more for wets
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Alba7, have the ears arrived yet Haven't heard from you!
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Did No 3 on the advice of Bruce at Arch. Mine is a 98 chassis. I got some Ali, rivited to the floor, then drilled through and bolted them through. Can't remember the gauge of Ali I used, but Bruce will tell you.
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"Does owning a xflow give one a persecution complex" Hmmm, I worry a lot more about my K series engine, than I ever did about my xflow
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Mark, not really upto me to tell people his real name, but I'm sure he wouldn't be bothered if everyone knew. I'm sure Revin will tell if he wants to. Knowing his real name doesn't seem to bring anything to the discussion though
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Mark, Nope Revin Kevin doesn't have a beard, but he is a top bloke with a solid engineering background and a rallying pedigree. He has also helped out many of the West Hants chapter with engined re-builds etc on both K, Vx and Xflow's. There isn't much if anything about 7's he doesn't know about.
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As I've already stated, I have a K now, and very pleased I am with it. But when I did have my xflow, it was re-built with the help of Revin, to 155bhp spec, with forged pistons, and a 3D mapped ignition system. The grand total of this re-build was £1200, the engine was then pretty much bullet proof. I also had rose jointed rear suspension, and to be fair the ride was no different to my de-dion ride now. Try re-building a K for that kind of money
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Having had a xflow LA and now a K. If I had 12k, I would buy a LA car, and save myself some wonga, then I could decide if I liked the Caterham experience and then decide which way to go. There is nothing wrong with Xflows or LA's
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Mine You could always ring Steve Tillett and ask him
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Easy job to change the ears. And I happen to have two neg ears spare, ones I bought secondhand, intending to run xply slicks, but now run radial slicks, so if you need them drop me a mail.
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Saunders also did my xflow a few years ago
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Tillet B3 seats. Sold by Steve Tillet directly, can't buy them from Caterham. They are wider than the CC Tillets. I couldn't get on with the CC ones, but the B3's fit great.
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I believe the caliper did change later. But mine are your vintage, and I didn't loosen any bolts, just took the pins out and changed the pads. Dead easy, unless I was just lucky
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They are like the old type, but the castle nut needs to line up with a split pin hole, so not a lot of tightening to do. They probably need replacing, quite a common fault. Bearings can be bought from either CC or any Triumph parts supplier. The domes should just prise off, but sometimes they don't, you then need to buy some new ones, from a Triumph parts supplier.