Casbar
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Everything posted by Casbar
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Make sure you do a search before doing this upgrade. The top wishbone rod ends that are supplied with the Caterham kit, have the wrong ball joint taper on the end, they are designed for the non trunnion uprights, which is a specific Caterham part and not Triumph. You can buy the correct rod ends from a motor factor, but you need the correct part number, if my memory serves me, they are a Fiat 132 part, that has a mm thread but an af taper, but do a search and you will find the part number
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got the same engine. Took it to Steve Greenauld and had the ECU mapped. Also had verniers fitted to time the cams correctly. Had no issues since, did this 4 years ago, much better power, it actually produces around 162bhp now, which it didn't when we got it on the rollers, another case of Caterham being over optimistic on power outputs
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I run mine 21 hot. Same camber setup I use for CR500 on the road.
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Alex, my Supersport R is narrow track, and handles fine. It won't make you go any quicker, save your cash and do more track days
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Ammo, I'll have a look for the article, but to be honest, I chucked most of the Circuit Drivers out. But it was written by Dave Walker, and I remember reading about the positive benefits of exhaust wrap, because I pointed it out to a mate
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That nice chap from Emerald, wrote an article in Circuit Driver, saying exhaust wrap was a good idea. So there are experts in both camps
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left the other one unwrapped so I could do a controlled experiment
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Loads of post before on this I've had my CC 3:2:1 primaries wrapped for about 6 years now, with no adverse effects.
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Better sell my dry sump setup then 😳
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If its a K series water rail, then I used the standard Caterham one with some gunk around it. The secret to getting it to seal, is to tighten the rear first, then space out the front captive bolt, so it doesnt force the rear away from the block
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cxr 7x13 - et 24. 6x13 for the front 18. Although 7x13 et 24 also fit on the front ok
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cheers
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The hose between my dry sump pan and scavange pump is starting to perish. Tried the local motor factors, but can't seem to find 3/4 hose. Anyone know of any suppliers that sell to joe pub, only need a metre.
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Anyone know the best tyre pressure for Michelin Wets or where to start from. Running about 21 hot on slicks, is it the same
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I replaced a P4 motherboard PSU only last week. I went an bought a PSU from PC World. Just get a PSU that is for an ATI motherboard and that should be ok, mine cost me £24 I think.
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If the quill turns then there is nothing wrong with the drive in the gearbox. The right angle drive should do up tight, hold the top hat with some long nose pliers and tighten it. If you can get the speedo to work by spinning the cable, then it looks like all the bits are working, have you tried fitting the right angle drive and seeing if the other side is spinning, ie put the rear of the car on axle stands and put the car in gear and test each bit. There is nothing behind the top hat, if it was the speedo drive, its a gear box strip down to sort it out, but if the quill spins that bit seems ok
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If he had a 996, a garage would be doing the job, this car is a bit more of a classic
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That is a great link thanks
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Yep been following that article, but it only talks about dropping the engine and leaving the transmission in the car. And it only mentions undoing the engine mounting bolts, not how many there are. We are trying to remove the engine and transmission together, as per the Haynes manual
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Been working on my mates 911 SC we need to drop the engine and transmission so he can have the gearbox refurb. So all the bits are off the engine, pipes disconnected et and its ready to drop. But, anyone know for sure how many bolts hold it in, before I start to undo stuff. Haynes not much help. It looks like there are 2 bolts at the rear of the engine and then two that hold the transmission on, which makes 4. Anyone know if there are more than two in the engine comp
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Ok, being a bit thick, here, so the drum is not just held on by the wheel nuts. You have to remove the dust cover in the centre of the wheel and undo the hub nut?
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Ok, so to get the hubs off to look at the shoes, is it the normal process of winding off the adjusters and knocking the drums off? Drove a few miles last year with the hand brake not fully off 😳 So the drums were a little hot, so I put on my list of jobs to check the shoes before I start tracking again this year.
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I assumed the brakes on my mino, were normal shoes inside the drums, is that not the case then? How do the brakes opperate? It was something I was going to look at soonest.
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Fitted 15's on the front and 14's on the rear 3 or so years ago, and have never had any issues, the car brakes fine. They are brill on the track