Casbar

Had my MBE mapped by Steve G. He fitted the comms lead, mapped the engine and then gave me my original map and the new one, so I could change if I wanted too. He did an brill job. The Emerald is also a good bit of kit, so you are in a win win situation, you sell the one you don't use

Is it a K series If so, you can remove the top of the 6 speed box from the engine bay. Once its off, just make sure if there is a seal, that it is properly fitted when you put the lid back on. If no seal, re-seal the lid with Wurf RTF or similiar, or do as I did, and bin the rubber seal and use the Wurf anyway.

Or just take the top of the box off, its held on by 6 cap heads, then fill to your hearts content.

They are standard Sierra driveshafts, so Ford dealers should be able to supply. I've bought driveshaft boot kits off them before.

DVA Has an explanation on his DVA Power website - it explains pretty much everything

Haven't got a clue where you are Like I said, how many people actually drive on the road in a car with a Helmet, probably only aero warriours I asked a traffic cop, and he said the opposite. You pays your money you takes your chances, use a car Helmet for the track and have a bike Helmet for the road, personally, if I need a Helmet on the road I will use my GP5K

My GP5K is road legal, what they actually mean is, its not for use on a motor cycle etc. There are not many car drivers that wear helmets for the road. You will not get knicked in a Caterham wearing a car Helmet.

Had the Willans with S Type seats and they are still a sod to adjust, if your not a big person, pulling down whilst sat in the car is more difficult than pulling up IMHO Have now gone back to the Luke harnesses

If its the shoulder straps your having problems with, then I would say there is something wrong with your harnesses, as I've never had a problem adjusting the shoulder straps even when my Luke ones were new.

Had the Willans in my last car, which had S Type seats. With the adjusters near the buckle and pull down adjustment, I found them a little easier to adjust but still quite difficult. Infact I know have CC Luke ones in my car and find pulling up easier than pulling down if you know what I mean. The only pain now, is with the buckle hiding behind the Tillets, but I intend to make the Tillet hole larger on the advise of Steve Tillet. Other option of course is to get yourself down the gym

Yeh its only been a problem for about 8 years, glad to see CC are working on a fix - they told me to bin the flap inside the neck when I fitted an aero cap 4 years ago

Does CSR live up North I wonder

Take somebody with you who knows what they are doing

I managed to change mine without removing the chassis rail. Though that probably depends on how high the engine is mounted. Just check that the engine mounts haven't broken, as this is a common cause of the water rail cracking as it drops and rests on the chassis rails. Also tighten the rear of the rail first, then the front bolt, packing it out to make sure it doesn't force the rail too far onto the block, thus stressing the rear seal. Good luck they are a PITA sometimes.

If the engine has been protected by a dry sump, isn't it a bit of backward step to then put a wet sump back on. If your only using it on the road I suppose it would be ok, but if your tracking it, even with an Apollo, wear can occur on the bearings. That's my understanding anyway, perhaps Oily could comment

I've had Brooklands on two cars now. I thought of changing to a carbon aero, but found that I couldn't see the left hand wheel through them. Which was a bit of a problem when on the track So not a style queen, kept the brooklands, they work really well and are great on a track because you can see through them.

Try taking one of the units out of the circuit to fault find. One controls the indicators the other the hazards.

Mech Gauge

Thought you said it was a Professional mitre saw

The guage of steel is exactly the same for the Roadsport and Superlight chassis. So if you spec'd a Roadsport without wheel carrier, it would be the same chassis

Caterham will only supply the new type of rail. It will fit, although if like me, EU2 R300 engine, I have to source another bolt for the front of the rail, as the original won't be long enough as the fittings are different. They also sold me another two sensors, as they told me the threads were different in the new rail. I have an MBE ECU so think that maybe a different thread, not sure on that point so went with CC recommendation, it all fits and the leads were long enough. You will also need a new gasket. I did try and get my old one welded up before I bought a new one, but mine had a crack around the mounting bracket and after two attempts it still leaked, so went for a new one. If going for a new one, make sure the gasket end of the rail is flat, then when you mount it, do up the gasket end first, then pack out the front bolt with some washers if needed, so when you tighten it, it doesn't force the rear gasket surface to twist, if you see what I mean

Yep, once you have a comms cable fitted. I had mine mapped by Steve, he then sent me the original map and a copy of the new map. You then need the software, which SBD allow you to download for free. Oh you also need the code to unlock the ecu, mine was 8654 as most are :)

alas clear now

Why would and Emerald increase performance My R300 engine has an MBE ECU and has been mapped by Steve Greenauld, nothing wrong with the MBE. If you buy an Emerald you should still get a mapping session.

Run RS14's and RS15's and mine don't squeal on the road, and have had them for a year or so Perhaps I'm not going quick enough