Casbar

Nick, I can't make a quiet day, with a R300 on rollers and a 7 inch cat racing can. Was ok at Castle Combe the begining of the month though and have been ok at all other circuits. Haven't tried Goodwood though.

Out. Keep an eye on the screw as if it is screwed out too much, it starts to drip.

Keep oil off the garage floor There is someone who has done this, but it was very expensive and not an easy conversion. Zetec better option, or do like I did, sell the xflow and buy a K engined car

Put pre-load on mine after reading John's article. 4 years later 10k and still fine - Kiss of death

Buy the bearings from CC. They are held in by either a circlip or an odd washer jobby that screws in (not a tech description). I found the best way to change them is to take the bottom wishbone off and get them out on a bench

Like i said Dave Walker said it was a good idea, therefore that's good enough for me. And as my silencer on my K isn't repackable I have no issues with the packing burning through. The silencer has been on the car for 5 years, loads of track days, and measured 90 db at Castle Combe last week, thats on an R300 engine. So do I need an expensive repackable silencer or a standard Caterham one - let me think about that

There is a seperate relay that performs the intermittant wipe function. They are not that reliable, so it may not be there. Mine broke so I threw it away.

Mine are the same, the headlight one works as does the rear fog, but after that its a bit hit and miss. Never really bothered with it.

YHM Edited by - Casbar on 26 Jun 2007 13:38:18

Does the carrier from Burtons have to be machined at all? I seem to remember a post by Arnie a while back, that mentioned something about machining being needed for the Burton bits.

I've had my primaries on my 4:2:1 exhaust wrapped for some 6 years, with no rusting or any adverse effects. There are many lines of thoughts on this subject, do a search and you will see. Dave Walker wrote about this subject in Circuit Driver and said he believed it was a good idea

Mick, I have a narrow track car, and after research decided not to bother with wide track. I changed my dampers for Nitrons, they are superb. But if you do a search, there is plenty debate on the merits of Avo's vs Nitrons etc

Use CR500's on the road and for wet track use, then get a set of used Radial slicks for dry track use. No need to swap de-dion ears, so setup stays the same. I don't do a lot of road miles and run the same size CR500's all around that way the rolling circum is the same as 6" slicks on the front and 7" rears. Which works fine with R300 power levels

Arn't you supposed to state a price, if you want to sell something Or is it on ebay

On mine, the bit with the rubber boot around it pushes aside and then you can get a spanner around it, basically the ball joint bit has a flat on it. You then hold it with a thin spanner and then undo the nut.

Get one from a Motor Factors, around £30. Then you get a years guarentee, so you can have a new one after 11 months

All is clear now, I just spoke to Bruce at Arch. The brackets were originally used for the old seat mounts, and at a certain point, Caterham deleted the brackets when the seats started to be mounted directly to the floor with the ali channels. They then later decided to have the brackets re-instated so there was somewhere to mount 6 point crutch straps. So my 98 chassis is the lighter version without the brackets

Hmm odd. I had the seats out, when fitting Tillets, and I deff didn't have any brackets to fit the crutch straps. Spoke to Bruce at Arch, who told me to rivit a strip of ali to the rear of the floor and then drill through. So it looks like some have and some don't. My old 91 chassis didn't have any either

Yeh, fine, but older chassis have no brackets. Mine is a 98 chassis, it has no brackets to fit 6 point harnesses. You either have to use the lap belt mountings or strenghen the floor and drill through and bolt.

"6 point mounts bolt through the brackets at the bottom of the rear bolkhead (cockpit side) through the floor". Only if you have a newer chassis, older ones don't have the brackets

Don't know about the 4 little screws, didn't get any when I bought my screens 7 years ago I purhased some cap head bolts and nuts, and countersunk them from underneath the stanchion to fix the screens and mirrors etc.

Fitted RS14's to the rears and RS15's to the front last year. They have been superb on the track, I don't use the car much on the road, so haven't noticed any issues with stopping power - or perhaps I just don't use the brakes

In the boot, ran the power along the tunnel top, under the leather thingy

Peter, i would be interested in the part number as well.

Didn't have the lugs as its a 98 chassis. Spoke to Bruce at Arch he told me how to mount the straps. Drilled the mounting holes through the channels at the rear, then rivited ali bracing strips in the gauge he recommended between holes, then bolted through. Each strap has its own two mounting points. Having spoken to Steve at Tillet, he said that cutch straps should really be bolted just under where they come through the seat, so that in a rear end shunt, they would stop the driver going backwards out of the seat as well. But with the length of straps etc I couldn't see how to engineer that solution, even if they went through a sleeve under the seat hole, you wouldn't be able to adjust them. I will give Bruce another call to check up, if I'm in any doubt I'll re-mount them doubling up on the side mounts Edited by - Casbar on 1 May 2007 11:30:36