Casbar

The bill :)

Thats ok I never wash my car

same 3 years ago, still brill

I took my switch out, and replaced it with a manual fan overide switch

K series, but 250 front, 150 rear (Eibach). Mostly track and works fine

Be aware your speedo will read wrong.

I've got two in my garage. I changed them out last year, because one of the boots was split, so I bought 4 boot kits with the intention of re-furbing them at my leisure. So, if your interested we could maybe sort something out. PM me, but I won't be able to reply until this evening, meetings in London today ☹️

I had a Weber 3D on my old xflow. It was a doddle to fit and worked really well.

I've got the Pace system got to say

Not with you at the wheel

Neil, Mike's car is in need of new bearings etc, it doesn't tell you after how many miles the bearings were actually shot or starting to wear. Race cars expect to do engine rebuilds. If you believe Caterham will honour engine warranties after you have been hooning around a track - good luck. At the end of the day, its your engine so you pays your money and takes your chances. I personally would ring Dave Andrews and ask his advice. But if you don't have the funds for a dry sump, then its all academic anyway. Those of us the run dry sumps, don't do it because its a tric bit of kit to have, we do it to protect 5k plus of engines.

I'd also do a search on Hellier in general if I were you 😳

If you have the standard Caterham Oil pressure gauge by the time it reacts around a track there will already have been issues. Its not the fastest reacting piece of kit. Fit a mechanical guage for that, although you also need an oil pressure warning light. And if like me, I never look at the gauges on the track anyway, always looking ahead. I did fit a dry sump though and do run slicks..

lol 😬 Oli, what track days you got planned

Tillett B4s direct from Steve Tillet, very comfy seat

18 psi cold - take it from there

Re the wishbone, tightening the bolt up, will probably stop it moving, but all that will do is put extra pressure on the bolt and pinch the upright in the bracket. It won't stop it moving under driving forces, if the bushes are stuffed they are stuffed and most cars at some point will need them replaced.

Give Steve at SPC a call, there are two ways to sort out the movement after fitting new bearings. Either spot weld them or shim them, each way has its fans.

If the wheel is moving in and out, then you need the axle bearing either shimmed or spot welded, two different ways of sorting it out. Either way, you will need new bearings pressed onto the half shafts. SPC (advertises in Low Flying) will do you exchange half shafts. The wishbones, do have bushes in them, which you can change. You can get the bushes from Caterham, and then you need to remove the wishbone and press out the old bushes and press in the new ones.

Kevin sent you a couple of pics

Kevin, I'm using Compomotive CXR's for my slicks, 6 inch front 7 inch rears, and I've also got another set of 7 inch CXR's for a set of wets I'm hunting out. So if you want to see them or try them, give me a shout

Mine as per Martin Whitcher, cam cover breathing to catch tank

Caterham 6 x 13 rims have a 24mm offset.. if you go to 7"or wider you might find that they foul on the front wing stays.. So 6 inch front and 7 rear should be ok, I run that combination.... Simple question - If I replace the current 16" wheels with 13"s - my thoughts are 6" wide fronts and 7' wide rears with Comp Minators (probably from George Polley, who seems to be highly thought of), with 185 55 13 on the front; 205 55 13 rears, offset OT23 (?Is this the correct offset?) George Polley will be able to advise on offsets, but this should be ok. I did have to grind off some of the de-dion tube with 7inch rears, but nothing major and it only took a few mins... Simply - will this fit without any issues, reworking/lowering of suspension; fouling of body (car has clams [yup take the p**s if you feel you are soooo much greater than everyone just by having some other lump of plastic/carbon stuck over your wheels...]). Will it effect the speedo readings and if so by how much? (is that possible to work out? And if it does would it effect the MOT testing?) Different rolling circumph will effect speedo reading, best to check against a measured mile to see how far it is out. Or fit a bike speedo. It will not effect MOT as it is not tested. Tyres - I err between 888s and 021s - car has approx 190ish HP (and needs to go on a rolling road to sort - another issue I would like some plain advice on - if that is again possible here). Think I would go for 888's or CR500's, which is what I use. Infact I use slicks on the tracks and CR500's for a road/wet tyre. Changing wheel size will change ride height, so this will need to be sorted, you will need adjustable platforms, if you don't already have them. Pretty simple questions I know - none which have not been asked before - for which I apologise - all I would like is some straight forward answers.

Good point about an air leak, spray some WD40 on and around the inlet manifold and carbs when the engine is idling and listen for a rise in revs, if there is an air leak, the revs will rise (don't want to teach you suck eggs or anything)

My engine was the same spec and it ran really well. Eventually I fittey a weber 3D mapped ignition system. But I would say, your issues are nothing to do with the cam or engine spec. A Roger King 155 upgrade is common among xflow owners and the engines are normally stonking Perhaps a rolling road session might be the solution. Edited by - Casbar on 23 Jan 2008 13:54:56