Darren Harrold

Higher CR cosworth pistons Interesting that Std crank Cosworth ultra race head (cnc ported) Cosworth ultra race cams Induction also modified for cnc head ...... Closer to 300 bhp. Very nice.

It was a couple of years ago when I last looked at all the prices so i have included some useful links below. It is also worth contacting Hanns Per about the Cosworth option. He converted an EU4 CSR200 that had the ford black oak ECU. So in addition to upgrading a UK EU3 CSR200 he needed a new engine loom and MBE ECU with Cosworth map. Hanns Per Website link If you go the Cosworth route then there would be a cost to update your current ECU, but it would remain locked as the ECU is specific to Cosworth. When I spoke to Cosworth last year about other engine options they said they could provide an unlocked ecu and map for the 220hp conversion. I am not sure if this is still the case. Minister Power is perhaps the best place to get a kit price and the latest info. What started me of on this path originally was that I wanted to have full control of the map and a map tailored to the engine hence my decision to go with a new ECU. A new MBE ecu from SBD is £550 +vat (Staying with MBE has the obvious advantage of keeping the existing engine loom). I would suspect however that many of the ECU manufactures could offer a conversion cable. A full rolling road session is around £400. Cosworth or Titan Roller Barrel throttle body set prices can be found at Burton Power Burton Power For Jenvey have a look at Ammo’s site Miscellaneous items will include throttle cable and/or linkage kit and new Thottle position sensor. Darren www.csr7.com Edited by - Darren Harrold on 26 Apr 2009 18:38:16

Some easy options. Cosworth do a 220hp conversion. (Basically the same roller TB as the 260 and a new map/ecu). Very easy to fit on UK spec CSR200’s. I took a different route as I wanted an open ECU. Using 54mm tapered Jenvey TB, new MBE ecu and remap, this gave 230hp. Anymore power than this then you would need to go for forged pistons and new rods before replacing the cams and doing any head work. Darren Edited by - Darren Harrold on 25 Apr 2009 18:36:06

ruff seven, you have blatmail. www.csr7.com

4.3 bar here here www.csr7.com

What wheels were used on the levante and x330? www.csr7.com

Phil, Nice to hear of another CSR owner not far away. I also joined the ranks of Caterham ownership with the CSR being my first 7. Unfortunately I have had first hand experience from damaging the sump of a CSR, my fault entirely for taking the wrong line on the road in a dip. Wasn’t difficult to replace, but it did require the engine out. So I am also looking to fit the sump protection bar that Caterham sell. Darren www.csr7.com

Danny, If upgrading the CSR260 to 280 bhp using Cosworth parts it involves Cosworth CNC ported head, new cams and higher CR pistons. Darren www.csr7.com

I fitted a EWP. Why? One of the issues was overcooling at speeds above 5000rpm. Water pressure was forcing thermostat open. Yes, this could have been very easily fixed with a larger water pump pulley – a 15min Job, anyway, it got me thinking about EWP’s. Whilst reliability has been raised– There is no reason why a well designed EWP using a brushless motor should be any less reliable than a standard mechanical water pump. The jury is still out on this one, however fuel pumps have been electric for a long time now. I liked the idea of an EWP as it could give max flow independent of engine speed and provide run-on after the engine has been switched off. I never found an EWP that would give the same max flow rate as the std pump – but then again I don’t drive on the redline continually. What I didn’t do was fit a variable pump speed controller or remove the thermostat. This concept gave me horrible thoughts of icy cold water from the rad entering the block at a trickle on a cold day as the pump slowed to maintain the output of the block at 85deg. Seemed a very bad idea to me. So I kept the ford thermostat and rad bypass loop (Which controls the temp of water into the block by mixing water from the rad and bypass loop) and run the EWP flat out all the time. Plumbing PDF Here Results are good. Temp gauge far more stable now. Even on the 3 track days during Le Sept last year where air temps were high 30’s. I am just in the process of fitting a 2nd temp sensor to the inlet of the Block. I configured the ECU to give Rad Fan run on and also the EWP.(If fans were on) when the engine is switched off. Darren Edited by - Darren Harrold on 21 Jan 2009 12:21:32

Some interesting comments. What was most appealing to me about CNC porting is the consistency it should be able to offer based on a template of proven design, even if only minor porting is required. (If jigged up correctly as Oily points out). With CNC I understood that the value guides were removed during the process. If that’s the case, the CNC route would surely make more sense to go all the way and also fit bigger valves. That said, I am not looking for a race engine. My goal is to gain more power at minimum cost; I will not be fighting for every single BHP. Thanks. Darren

Just been looking around at getting by Duratec Head ported. I see there are some companies offering CNC porting. (Cosworth / Ultmate Performance) Clearly there are obvious advantages to CNC, is there a downside other than maybe cost ? Darren www.csr7.com

Se7en, Are you looking for a keyless solution that still provides security, whereby the driver carries a battery powered card or fob with them. With these systems there is no need to press button on the device or present fobs to immobilisers to activate the ignition. For example Mercs “Keyless Go” system. Wiki Link here There are a few aftermarket solutions, albeit at a price. A quick Google – here There is a thatcham approved immobiliser fitted to UK CSR’s (I believe mandatory for insurance purposes) that uses a passive (No battery) tag in a key fob. When the fob hangs from the ignition key and if the antenna is installed correctly close to the ignition barrel, you would simply insert your key as normal and not even notice the immobiliser. Given that the immobiliser antenna can give a reading distance from the fob to the antenna of around 150mm I decided to remove the ignition barrel and relocate the antenna. I did some tests with the antenna in two locations, both of which work fine. 1. By the left hand side of the drivers seat. (In the location of pocket when sitting) – So simply kept tag in pocket) – this will not work with CF Tillets. 2. With the antenna in the footwell (above accel peddle) I used a spare transponder (Tag) and fixed into Right driving shoe) !! Anyway once you have found a suitable way for disarming the immobiliser, you will need to find a way to Switch on the ignition, Start and Stop the engine, you could do this with a suitable on/off switch for the ignition and keep the current push button for the starter. Switch here see this FAQ for more info here However I suspect you are looking for something a bit more elegant. Possibly using the same button to start and stop the engine. Which sounds although it should be simple, but having a single button control ignition and the starter I found was not easy to do using off the shelf parts. In the end I designed a small circuit using a PIC micro controller. The circuit detects if the engine is running or not. If not pressing the button Switches on the ignition and turns over the starter. If running and you push the button it kills the ignition. The same circuit also controls lights etc so I don’t get a flat battery I know others have done something similar, check this link for Chris Wyles here I relocated the heater fan speed control and in its place put a Renault start/stop button. This was ideal because it had an led, which I used to connect to the immobiliser LED and my circuit to give me the status of the ignition & Immobiliser. here Darren Edited by - Darren Harrold on 5 Jan 2009 15:07:16

Saturday . V* *** A braver guy than me in those abysmal weather conditions. Darren www.csr7.com

Wed Morning. You were at the junction of Mill Drove heading towards the A16. Darren www.csr7.com

Paul, I warm engine, remove both sump plugs then jack up the rear of car to get what may be in the bell housing. Darren