regroo

I think it can. When I fitted mine I had to have a couple of attempts at the calibration to get it to read properly. I left a few litres in the tank even at 'empty' then used 2L increments (i think) all the way up. I cant remember how many increments there were but I think around 12 or so is what I ended up with. The readout is pretty good until it gets down to 4 or 5L, but by then I am normally looking to fill up anyway. A couple of things I found; Less than 2L increments is a waste of time! When using the maximum level of increments my Stack got upset everytime so I reduced accordingly. Damping time is about 30 seconds or so. HTH

After deciding to order a new friction plate after discovering the springs were loose and a bit knackerd I am now seeking advice on the cover plate. There is nothing really obvious wrong with it apart from the fingers are a bit polished on the ends. I have the burton CRB going in and although I really dont want to spend another £100 on top of the friction plate I will kick myself if I have problems in the near future! Its an AP assembly not sure if its original or not as the car is a '99 (not much of it though 😬) and has covered about 30K in total. Thanks in advance.

Don't get out or drive faster 😬 ....but a hole will be fine

Yikes, that clutch is horrible! Definately going to replace it, its got me thinking if there is any fatigue on the pressure plate now..... I think the whole assembly is original so it has covered about 30K or so in various environments.

John, All the springs show signs of wear, one in particular when you spin it around is almost halfway through! I dont think I can put it back in really even though it is only about half worn on the friction material Edited by - regroo on 29 May 2010 18:55:33

I am about to refit the engine and have just noticed that there is a fair amount of movement in the springs. The sides of the 'pockets' which are turned inwards have a bit of wear on them and the springs are also a bit worn. Having never really examined a clutch before I am not sure if this is acceptable to refit or not? Cheers all.

Hi, a few questions to those of you who have been through the process before... Here is my clutch arm. I can't see any signs of cracking or fatigue so dont really want to replace unless necessary. For those of you who have removed one does the angle of the arm appear to be normal? A few other things; The bearing which will probably be replaced is the German INA one from 1999 it doesn't appear to be noisy but I am loathed to re-fit....wise? Current thinking is the Burton route as detailed above. I measured the clutch and it is around 6.5mm, so about halfway worn, the engine will have a bit more torque now so 50/50 on changing, advice? Clutch cover looks ok, nothing obviously worn badly., is it ok to refit with a new friction plate or is that not sensible? Thanks I cant say how old any of it is but worst case scenario is about 23K.

One average size garden. I am sorry it's got to go but I really need to spend more time on my car. Open to offers 😬

Rollers give better full throttle power 'sometimes' because at max opening there are no restrictions in the inlet. Everywhere else in the throttle range part of the 'ball' is protruding into the inlet which upsets the airflow when compared with a traditional butterfly which flow more evenly. Speak to a couple of engine mappers and you will soon find most of them find roller barrels more difficult to get the best from on anything bar full throttle. The difference driving with either of them depends on your style, if you thrash the living daylights out of your car everywhere then it wont be that much of an issue but normal, on/off, part throttle on the road something like Jenvey's will give you a much smoother and faster pickup. Alternatively there are 'spindleless' butterflies but the last back to back test I saw concluded that there wasn't the advantage that was being clamied by the manufacturer....look nice though 😬

If we are talking about 4 cylinders in general I have found the above to not always be 100% true. Although there is obviously a link between noise and gasflow my previous two silencers were significantly noisier than a Raceco I had on trial which turned out to make the best overall power.

At the moment I have the engine out and am looking at anything that might need replacing. If the arm is showing early signs of bending (although it is not cracked) then I will replace it along with the CRB before the car goes back together.

Yes its the dry sump version I need a side view to see how straight it is.

Can someone post a side view of a clutch arm as i may have a kink in mine? Are they supposed to be flat along the back edge? Thanks

Cheeseman std SLR silencer good condition repaired very neatly underneath at the back edge. Set of single tang bushed SLR rods approx. 3000 miles. Offers invited.

Mine was water rail but if you are absolutely sure it isnt that then? Did you use silicone grease when you installed the hoses, it definately helped mine seal.