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paul richards

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Everything posted by paul richards

  1. Ian. I stand corrected. M5 is the right size. I purchased 2 x 50mm long for £6.64.
  2. Yes Ian. A better and cheap solution. They are called “Standoffs” if anyone is searching for them. Are you sure they are M5. From memory I think you need M4. Best to check first.
  3. I’ve had my Optimate connected via a socket for 20+ years with no problems and Banner batteries seem to last around 6 or 7 years. I don’t see a reason to remove it from the car or use a regular charger. BJH360S - do you not have something you can plug in to check when it is live? If not, why not consider buying a USB adaptor. It will allow you to use the socket to charge your phone etc. HERE
  4. Works fine if it is live when ignition is switched off.
  5. I assume the body of the sender earth to the engine block. Sounds like feed to the gauge is going to earth somewhere. This could be in the wiring or a faulty sender.
  6. Nick. I think I may have one tucked away in my garage but it will be weekend before I can check. I’ll let you know.
  7. I don’t think there are any problems with length. Important thing is that there is no pre load when car is on flat ground.
  8. Stu. Interested to see how you get on with this exercise. I think your car is similar vintage to mine and I thought about changing the rubbers but decided against. Changing O rings and hoses seemed OK but it was gaskets around the fuel pump and gauge sender that put me off as they can be a pig to seal. You’ll probably tell me they don’t need changing as they are cork but I wasn’t sure. For the relatively small amount of fuel used I’ve decided to use the more expensive E5 super fuels or when not available use THIS.
  9. The idea of the boot bag is to increase luggage space I.e. in addition to the boot. I doubt you’ll find it’s fully weather resistant. Certainly my SBFS Rebag isnt. The best advice is to pack things in polythene bags within the boot bag.
  10. I have Sabelt and they are fine although the lap belts are pull down to tighten which is not ideal as they are not easy to adjust when in the car. I have to set them and breathe in to fasten. Shoulder straps adjust really easily. However I have seen other Sabelts that are very stiff. I think it depends on which type/quality you choose. The best belts I have come across are Schroth but they were very expensive. My advice would be to contact Simon at Meteor Motorsport and seek his advice. I’m pretty sure he does a good quality belt specifically for a Caterham.
  11. I think have a battery tray for a Banner if you need one.
  12. Oxted are the manufacturer so I would suggest they are your best bet. They’ve been very helpful with repairs of seats etc.
  13. Yes. Soft Bits retro fitted the zips. I can’t remember the price. Over £100 but less than £200. There’s a lot of work in it. I was concerned that zips may allow it to leak but it doesn’t. They make a good job of it. Well worth it. worth it.
  14. I have a Soft Bits half hood and had the easy in zips retro fitted. I like the Oxted version as the securing straps seem better attached at the side but not sure if they do easy in zips and Oxted weren’t available when I purchased mine originally. Positive point is less steaming up and no real down sides. As Stu says much better if you have a spare wheel to prevent rear water ingress.
  15. If you are talking about the main box section of the chassis it already has holes for rivets securing the aluminium bodywork. If I’m not mistaken later cars have brackets pop riveted to this for an oil catch tank. I’m sure a couple more won’t harm. However rivnuts require a bigger hole than rivets. Is it not acceptable to just use rivets?
  16. James. That’s not good. It’s obviously going to leak in use never mind when parked. You need a new one, but fortunately lots of people have spare ones. I’m sure a wanted ad on here would get you a replacement and at a much lower price. However I’d look to get a half hood. I’ve used nothing but a shower cap and half hood for years.
  17. I wouldn’t have thought the alternator would suffer and I’ve certainly had no problems. However a long nose shower cap will certainly prevent water getting into the heater. I get your point about prying eyes and agree. I assumed you were arriving somewhere with no roof and then putting both a full hood and shower cap on. I know some put the shower cap over a half hood but if the shower cap is a good fit I haven’t found it necessary.
  18. Ahhh! The only 3 pot 7 I have seen had trailing arms and a panhard rod. I didn’t realise there were already differences in them. As has been said the panhard rod does an adequate job. I think you’d need to be Lewis Hamilton to notice the lateral movement it gives.
  19. If you have a 3 cylinder 7 and talking about fitting an A frame from an early live axle 7 then I’m fairly certain the answer is no. Chassis on your 7 is completely different to a S3.
  20. I don’t understand why you would want a shower cap over a full hood. Surprised your full hood leaks but would expect it can be made waterproof.
  21. Hi Nigel. I have the very similar QED remote thermostat. HERE They fit in the top hose. It has been much easier to fill the coolant with no air locks. Engine does however run cool as I used my existing (82 degree) thermostat which has a hole drilled to aid bleeding. I propose to fit a new (82 degree no hole drilled thermostat) over the Winter. Fingers crossed it will run around 82 degrees.
  22. Malc7. My link above is to a normal warning light. The top light on a car of your era is normally a shift light and is a much brighter bulbous light held in place by a plastic holder as per JP.
  23. Car builder solutions have them HERE however they have a chrome bezel. Might be worth a call to see if they have them with black bezel.
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