paul richards

YHM. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Just received my Autocom (another 2 weeks and I could have benefitted from bulk buy!!!! ☹️ Doh!!) My question is:- Where is the best place to position it and what is the best method of fixing. I've considered under the driver seat and under the dash, but space is limited (especially when you have as many wires coming from it as I have). Favourite is looking like boot, as it is as far from engine and hence less likelihood of interfrence and seems easiest to run shorter master headset cable to driver. Hoping that all cable will go down transmission tunnel with headphone sockets popping out near gearlever. Any recommendations before I start ripping out the interior? Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Diff change. De dion or live axle? Ford or Ital? If you're contemplating swapping the diff yourself and its a Ford live axle, I have a slide hammer you can borrow. Echo Simons remarks and confirm John Nobles are good and Caterham approved. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Edited by - Paul Richards on 12 Jan 2004 12:38:07

See 7FAQ (access from home page) for instructions on cure. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

If it's a De Dion, there will probably be bolts which attach from under the wheel arch up into the bar. To access them you need to remove the shock absorbers.

Justin Thanks for your suggestions. When I examined the calipers I did check all the things you suggest and they are all free. I haven't checked the rear brakes, but I am pretty sure the problem doesn't lie here. I rebuilt all the rear end last year and replaced the rigid brake pipe with Goodridge flexible hose - I've never been too keen on the fixed pipe from the day I built it. The thought of a fixed pipe and the movement required by the caliper seems a bad idea to me. On reflection, perhaps the improved rear brakes have highlighted the problem? I thank you for your comment :- If kept in good working order there is absolutely no reason why you should need to upgrade the front calipers. I agree. All Thanks for all your comments. I plan to try 1144s (or even EBC greenstuff) on the front which seems to have improved things for a number of you. It's interesting to note that I'm not on my own with this problem. I'm not keen on fitting a brake bias valve, as I agree with the comment that the problem is being masked - All you are doing is reducing the efficiency of the rear brakes to match poor front ones. I wonder whether a change of disks might be of assistance? Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Edited by - Paul Richards on 16 Nov 2003 18:11:54

Thanks for all your replies - I'm underwhelmed. Someone has suggested Mintex 1144 pads for the front. Any comments? Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

My front brakes are less effective than they were. Since the car was new, the brakes have always required a firm push, but I always put this down to the lack of servo, which I am used to on the tin top. In the last few months they appear to have become less effective and I worry that under hard braking I'm going to get rear lock up which will make the car unstable. I examined the front brakes and calipers appear to be free and I replaced the pads (Mintex MGB533 - standard fitment), thinking that they were glazed. Little or no improvement. I plan to bleed the brakes, but suspect this will have little effect as the pedal is quite firm and not spongy. What is the solution other than uprating the front brakes (reluctant to spend £500 or so). I'm sure even the standard brakes should be better than this, it's a very light car after all. Any suggestions appreciated. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Edited by - Paul Richards on 14 Nov 2003 13:27:16 Edited by - Paul Richards on 14 Nov 2003 13:31:24