paul richards

“However, for tire repairs I would not want to have to remove the bonnet if Ididn’t have to. Where do I put it to protect it. So the jack and handle etc. will stay in the boot.” I used to keep spare cables in the boot until once on the way back from Le Mans my throttle cable snapped. With all the luggage in and on top of the boot it took longer to get to the cable than it did to fit it. You can keep your bonnet safe by putting it in the cockpit (front near the dash and rear over the roll bar). Or simply put it on a piece of grass if there is some nearby.

I have a K series and carry loads of tools and spares. I have fabricated a box out of aluminium that is secured in front of the heater using rivnuts. I use a Tupperware type sandwich box with tools and spares that drops inside it. On top of that I put my spare clutch and throttle cables and on top of them I put my bag that contains a jack, wheel brace, tow rope etc. All secured by stout bungee straps. Pics to illustrate.

Tiny nut.

A simple way of testing for leaks is with a small piece of tissue on the end of a stick or similar. With the engine running hold it near joints and look for the tissue “fluttering”.

Assuming battery is good I’d suggest checking and cleaning all the electrical contacts on the starter, battery and earths. K series click is normally only when engine is hot.

Not sure that any of the things you have done would really cure rich running and I’d suggest that a 74c thermostat is too cold. Standard thermostat is 88c but most will use a 82c. As suggested a rolling road mapping session with the Emerald will sort it if it is running rich. However the backfiring you are experiencing could simply be caused by air getting into the exhaust system. I’d check for leaks around the primaries and cylinder head.

Fair enough.

Thanks Jonathan. I knew you’d be able to find it.

Unfortunately you can’t get caphead nuts.

I don’t have a spacer (I didn’t know there was one) but I simply used 2 pieces of 50mm x 50mm box section. I welded plate on the ends to blank them off and drilled the appropriate holes in them. An easy job that can be done by any engineering workshop if you can’t manage it yourself. There is a thread on here somewhere with pictures but I’m blowed if I can find it.

Push the side skin in.

That’s a deal. A blat to Blackpool?

Time for one last blat before it goes?

“swirl makes your left shoulder wet”. Not if you have a spare wheel.

You can drive it to IVA test but not to post build check.

Tried tape but doesn’t work on “Dusty” surface.

The doors on my car are in reasonable condition except that the material inside the part that bows out to give elbow room has become loose and saggy. I have armrests fitted and to gain access I have removed the armrest and slit the material where the armrest is located and this will be covered when the armrest is refitted. I thought it would be as simple as spraying some glue in to reattach the material to the door. However the material is thin and glue can easily soak into it and show on the inside of the car. Not very successful as the inside of the door is a bit like hardboard and over the years is quite “dusty”. Second attempt was to try and secure using double sided tape but the “dust” doesn’t allow thinks to stick to it. Has anybody successfully carried out a similar repair? I’m thinking I need to find some sort of size/primer and then a suitable glue. Any ideas/recommendations?

My half hood is from Soft Bits. No real problems but does blow up a little when in gale force winds (Scotland) and at 100mph+ (Germany).

Standard floors have reinforcement in the form of channels underneath where seats are mounted. Lowered floors are thicker gauge. In any event repair washers should also be used. 4 holes are used to secure seats. All should be used but may need a little fettling sometimes.

Just needs welding. I’ve had to do mine a couple of times.

Is it to be located in the top hose? If so installation is straightforward. It’s a little more complicated if an Apollo tank is also incorporated. I placed mine with the oil inlet/oulet going up and down with a 90 degree end on oil the hose that connects to the top. As it will sit on the chassis I used some sticky foam to stop it rattling. Picture is my installation with Apollo tank and top hose thermostat (just to make it more complicated).

Nice car for somebody.

Brass T piece finally arrived from China so I have now fitted and shortened/tidied the hoses. Took the car for a quick test drive and it performs exactly how I hoped. Picture below as it might help others. Many thanks again to those who helped with their advice.

David. The slot in the column in the picture is not for the lock. It is for the clamp to attach to the lower column. If you already have a removable wheel and no steering lock then removal of the column is straight forward. However if you do have a steering lock then your upper column will have a collar welded to it for the lock to engage. This collar will not pass through the upper bush so you need to remove the upper bush which can be a bit difficult and the bush could be damaged in the process. If you have to remove a column with a collar for the steering lock I found the best way was by using a ratchet strap fastened around the roll bar. Also as the bush could be damaged I would recommend purchasing a new bush before you start. Hope this helps.

Pop rivet.?