paul richards

There’s no need to put the car on axle stands provided you can get a jack under the sump, although personally I would put it on stands as it saves bending down and giving me a bad back. I think you’ll find the long bolts are actually 1/2 inch unf with. 3/4 inch head (19mm spanner will fit). I only mention it in case you damage the bolt removing it and need to replace it.

Ditch the carpet. It will only get wet and smelly.

Can you not put something in the holes and lever it into position. Just needs “tweaking” but you may need to be a bit rough.

If you want fixed mirrors on the windscreen stanchions why not use the IVA fittings for his standard mirrors. HERE I’m sure there will be plenty of people glad to sell them once they have passed IVA.

Tonneau.

Update. The lead time to get a suitable brass T piece is around 6 weeks (from China) so I opted for a plastic T from Car Builder Solutions and fitted it earlier today in the 16mm bottom outlet of the expansion tank. Took it out for a run and it quickly warmed up and never went above 80 degrees. Result. Returned home and left the car ticking over. Fan kicked in at a suitable point and switched off after it had cooled. I’ll order a brass T from China and replace the plastic one in due course. Many thanks for your assistance.

Try contacting Martin Phipps at Caterham. He has access to the sales records. He is only there one day per week so don’t expect an instant response. https://caterhamcars.com/en/contact

I simply used black pop rivets (carefully). The ones I used were quite soft aluminium. You could potentially reuse the plastic ones. They work in a similar way to a pop rivet. When you remove them pull the centre out first.

R I understand that’s what they do at the factory. They do it before the shock absorbers are fitted and simply lift the de dion and tighten when trailing arm/A frame are parallel to ground. Similarly lift front suspensions and tighten when wishbones parallel to the ground. Then they fit the shock absorbers.

I’ve done further investigation and no problems with blockages in pipes or waterways although the orifice in the top of the standard header tank is very small as standard with a narrow metal insert to stop the plastic crushing. Graham - Thanks for your response. I was intending to follow Malcolm’s advice and put a T in the 16mm hose from the header tank rather than the 8mm outlet and you have confirmed it. I note on QED website the kit does in fact show a 16/8/16 T piece. I’ll order the T piece and report back in due course.

Gents. Thanks for your suggestions. Neil. I was coming to the conclusion that something was wrong with the bleed/bypass as it is not allowing hot water to reach the thermostat. As you suggest it appears the thermostat is only being operated by convection/conduction. Stu. I can’t recall whether there is a small ball valve in the cylinder head outlet but I did wonder if this could be the problem as I understand they are prone to sticking. In any event this is a very small orifice which could be easily blocked. I’ll take the hose off and give it a poke. Don’t really need some form of valve? I seem to recall someone advising to remove it. Malcolm. Your idea of tapping into the hose between the header tank and the submarine pipe seems like a good idea. I’ll investigate and report back in due course.

I fitted a QED top hose thermostat housing to my K series engine a little while ago and reused the the 82 degree thermostat that was fitted in the normal thermostat housing. This thermostat had a 3mm hole drilled to aid bleeding. The car runs fine but runs a little too cool for my liking in normal ambient temperatures. I therefore changed to a new 82 degree thermostat with no hole. Temperature now comes up quicker but will rise to around 100degrees or even a little higher and will then drop very quickly to 80 degrees. I assume this is when the thermostat opens. It then stays at 80 but gradually climbs again to 100 and then very quickly drops again. Picture attached to show how it is plumbed. Yes I have replaced the original thermostat with the recommended spacer ring. I have also tried 2 new thermostats with the same result. Any ideas why it is doing this?

My heater case also cracked and broke. I dismantled by taking out the little plastic plugs. I then repaired the case using glue and some bits of carbon fibre sheet that I had knocking around. I rebuilt using pop rovers to replace the plastic plugs. I understand that Clayton can supply the new matrix but recall they were eye wateringly expensive.

Seat belt bolts on all cars (not just Caterham) are 7/16ths unf

A bit difficult to have an effective cover. You can get covers for rose joints but they are similarly difficult to protect and hence they are rarely used.

That’s also my experience. You need the tiniest amount of oil as you don’t want it to contaminate the brake disc.

ZZR over a second a lap quicker around Anglesey International compared to ZZS but don’t last that long before you are down to the canvas.

“mine doesnt have circlips, they are like a flat keyring” They are called Sprirolox retaining springs.

Remove the sump. Ditch the foam. Put holes in gasket and reuse it.

Lateral movement is controlled by the A frame. If there is lateral movement then something is wrong. Is there play in the bushes or insufficient spacing washers?

That’s correct.

Good guys. Callum (ex Caterham) knows his stuff. Have been recommended by a few people.

Not sure this is correct. In my experience the accelerator pedal is held by a bolt into a captivated nut in the chassis. There is a bush in the bracket upon which the pedal rotates. Bush enables the bolt to be fully tightened without pinching the pedal. I’d suggest dismantling and cleaning then applying a little copper grease before reassembly.

I have the DRE shift lights and these are simply held directly on top of the scuttle with Velcro. Admittedly they are probably lighter than the Aces ones but may be worth investigating other forms of attachment. Or perhaps make a new bracket. I’m assuming it’s just a thin piece of bent bar with a couple of holes.

Rattling layshaft. Noise disppears when clutch depressed. They all do it. Nothing to worry about.