paul richards

"I believe Partridge Green Motorsport (PGM) do an uprated version at £170 if required." I think that might be for a dry sump bellhousing. Standard Ford item is fine for wet sump.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Type-9-Reconditioned-Clutch-Fork-Sierra-Cortina-Capri-Kitcar-Locost/253063347629?campid=5338627314&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=EAIaIQobChMI8oCXmJffgAMVHIBQBh0L7gPSEAQYAiABEgJcIvD_BwE,EAIaIQobChMI8oCXmJffgAMVHIBQBh0L7gPSEAQYAiABEgJcIvD_BwE&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&gbraid=0AAAAADk7gXN0PmwPgpcAz5voc6nf3gp6V&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8oCXmJffgAMVHIBQBh0L7gPSEAQYAiABEgJcIvD_BwE&pageci=010d1692-4aeb-4ff6-9962-4d07b0b46cf3&redirect=mobile

Is this not what you want? https://caterhamparts.co.uk/brackets/7574-cycle-wingstay-rh.html Does however appear to be out of stock. Considering the price I'd be welding it but if you want to purchase I'd contact Redline.

Can't go far wrong with a Radtec.

There was no throttle stop or hole for a throttle stop on older cars. Carefully measure where a hole is needed and get the drill out.

What Stu says.

Car is nice and clean and JAL lights are much better than standard but are still not as good as many tin tops. I certainly felt vulnerable with standard lights and anything that makes me more noticeable is a good thing.

Yes. Polarity is fine. In my experience if polarity is wrong they don't work at all.

I think I badly worded it. I said :- ""However when side lights are on and ignition is switched off the new high level brake lights go out when I press the brake pedal." I should have said high level side lights go out when I press the brake pedal. I think you are correct jbcollier. An alternative route is being found. I did think a diode would be the answer but wouldn't know how to go about it. The lights are certainly working satisfactory for use and I can live with it, but it was just puzzling me. Thanks all for your replies.

I decided to replace my high level LED brake light with 2 round LED lights. The new lights (cheap and made in China - isn't everything) are designed for use on a motorcycle as side and brake light. My original intention was simply to wire them up as brake lights but there is a reasonable distinction between the side and stop illumination so I decided to use them as intended for side and stop bearing in mind Caterham rear lights are quite poor (even with my JAL conversion). Im no electrician but have a basic understanding and have wired them up using the sub loom I already had for my existing brake light and connected the new side lights to the correct feed in the harness for the rear side light. Existing side lights and new additional side lights work as expected. When ignition is on all side lights and brake lights (including all the new lights) work as expected. However when side lights are on and ignition is switched off the new high level brake lights go out when I press the brake pedal. I have replaced the new LED lights with "ordinary" lights and they work fine. Seems to be something within the new LED lights. I can of course simply ignore this and live with them as under normal use there is no real problem, but why they do this is bugging me. Any ideas.

60k miles - just run in! Change the oil. Clean the sump plug. Away you go.

3.9 is higher than 4.2 so will give you more mph per 1000 revs.

Nick. You've confirmed my memory that there are spacers. I recall they were a bit like the filter tip on a cigarette.

Assuming WOT means wide open throttle then yes you need pedal to hit stop at WOT otherwise no point in having a stop.

I'd suggest making sure you have adequate ground clearance rather than trying to fabricate a sump guard. The fitting of a guard immediately reduces your ground clearance and more importantly there are no points to attach it to that don't risk damage to the chassis.

I think you'll find normal pop rivets are fine as I don't think the glass goes completely to the edge of the frame. There are small spacers holding the glass in place. Make sure you use rivets that don't protrude in the popper. Countersunk rivets are best.

I don't think that's what he is after. The item you have linked to is for fitting female poppers to hoods and the like. Poster is looking to fit male poppers to windscreen frame which involves pop riveting.

I know you are not building new, but for IVA the front tip of the wing must be at least in line with the front edge of the wheel (not the tyre).

Stuart's recommendation of RTech is good, but I'd be surprised if you can't refurb your SIP machine. The wire feed is fairly simple. Have you renewed the liner? An alternative gas supplier is SGS. They have a lot of distributors. Bound to be one close to you.

When I fitted a 4 primary exhaust to my k series replacing the single pipe that exited the bodywork I offered up one of the primaries and trimmed the bodywork bit by bit until it fitted when fully bolted to the head. I then moved on to the next primary. Do the primaries one by one individually and you should have an exact hole.

I struggled to get Contralube last time I needed some. Is it still availablee?

Dielectric grease. Don't just stop at plugs. This is the stuff to use on all your electrical connections.

Oil can is ideal for top up and ok for a full fill with a little rest halfway. Much easier, quicker and less messy than a lot of other methods that rely on gravity.

Oil can is ideal for top up and ok for a full fill with a little rest halfway. Much easier and less messy than a lot of other methods that rely on gravity.

Not sure what information on you are after. Do you mean filler/level plug? If so chassis has nothing to do with it. Type 9 Ford gearbox usually requires 10mm cut down Allen key although there are a few plugs with a square recess.