Ray Pearce
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Everything posted by Ray Pearce
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I found this in an old post On the older chassis, the VIN number is stamped on the front of the pedal box and it's also on the wiper motor bracket. Newer chassis also have the VIN on the upper chassis rail beside the pedal box - visible through a cutout in the folded over top of the sideskin. Have you tried the wiper motor bracket?
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Dont have a crimping tool and use pliers I think you have answered your own question. Find a proper crimping tool to match the connectors you are using. Edited by - Ray Pearce on 28 Mar 2011 14:01:19
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Here's the official way to remove the pins here But you don't really need the special tool, a very thin bladed screwdriver (think jewellers) will do the job.
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Just the column or does it include the boss too?
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When driving with an aeroscreen/Brooklands you don't have the stanchion to attach doors to. The half doors cut down on side drafts and keep your arm/shoulder dry when the road is wet.
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When I lost one I got one from Richard Youngs scrap spares box see here
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Now that search is back and working nicely again, could I ask for a few enhancements. It would be nice to be able to go directly to search hits within a thread, especially with some of the monster threads that arise regularly. Find Next and Find Previous that can span multi-page threads e.g. I want to find out how to configure TeamSpeak for use in rFactor. If I do a search I get sent to the first page of a 50 page thread. Might not be so easy for complex search arguments though... As an alternative, how about a "search this thread" function?
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In Live Adjustments the Load Site is the throttle position. Should go from 0 to 15 when you press the throttle. It might be worthwhile recalibrating the throttle pot - Setup/Throttle Pot and then follow the instructions.
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My guess would be the throttle pot sensor telling the ECU that you are at wide open throttle. Plug yer laptop in like Johnty says and check what the throttle pot is sending.
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You do realise that it is only the XR4x4 that had an LSD?
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My experience
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brake lights stopped working - need advice
Ray Pearce replied to fred_gustafsson's topic in TechTalk
The brake test switch is a light that comes on when the brake fluid in the master cylinder falls too low. Nothing to do with the brake lights on the back of the car. -
I can't remember who's car it was but I have seen a head torch like this strapped to the roll-over bar which lit up the complete cockpit area to allow pre-launch preparations to be made without the usual fumbling in the dark (fnarr-fnarr) for straps, hat, gloves, ear-plugs etc.
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You will need some way of securing the brake callipers too, unless you are removing them. There are some useful hints and pictures on Myles website where he documents how to remove the prop-shaft here
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Running Engine Stopped on drive way - now wont restart Updated 09/01/11
Ray Pearce replied to nickh7's topic in TechTalk
Hopefully he hasn't been as unlucky as you were, Myles. Has your car finally made its way home yet? -
question for yhose who have fitted the new style headlamp brackets
Ray Pearce replied to The Pikey's topic in TechTalk
Andy, It looks like you haven't made that album public. I can't get in to see the pics. -
But even the Stack is marked in Bar. What we need is a gauge marked in kPa.
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I seem to recall reading that its 2 parts paint to 1 part hardener Mix and apply
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From the other thread paint code for Caterham Yellow Yellow - 1 litre AM44 649 51 658 7 668 1 672.6 AK 100 1180.6 I love to know if Halfords can do something with that.
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How are your plans for this coming along? Couldn't you just use a latching switch for the heated screen? I can see the rest of the functions being handled by a PIC chip and a few relays (possibly using existing relays in most cases)
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What on earth do you mean - "there is no consensus". From what I have read there are dozens of consensuses 😬
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You have wipers and heated screen. How about washers?
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How many racers put armourfend on their wings?
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I have never fitted a new rubber but when mounting a new screen which had a full untrimmed rubber the technique I used was... Loosen the stanchions and loosely fit the screen between them. Feed the ends of the rubber through the triangular hole in the stanchion and pull down on the rubber while tightening the stanchion mounting bolts. This should help to get most of the wrinkles out of the rubber. When everything is tightened down and to your satisfaction, carefully trim the rubber off with a Stanley knife.
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If the wheel is reluctant to come off the splines, the "special trick" is to run a ratchet strap through the wheel and around the roll-bar. Then you just ratchet until it pops free.