Ray Pearce

That doesn't sound like my blocked pick-up problem, that showed low pressure from cold. But it does sound like my old old oil pressure sender before I replaced it with a mechanical oil pressure gauge. It was this reliable gauge that let me instantly spot the low pressure and avoid damage. My old gauge was so erratic that I would have probably passed it off as a gauge problem. If I were you I would replace with a mech OPG (try a blatmail to 7ERRY) and get rid of the foam too.

Hiya Baz That was quite likely me, late for work as usual.

Charlie was spot on with diagnosis of a pick-up blocked by bits of "foam". In fact the pick-up looked like it had been stuffed full of tea leaves and the remains of the baffle crumbled into grit as soon as it was touched. See pictures here The last picture shows what the strainer should look like and gives an idea of how much cr@p had found it's way in. I have now ditched the foam and drilled the gasket and consider myself very lucky that no permanent damage seems to have been done. Something that breaks up like this has NO place inside an engine. If you haven't yet got rid of it then PLEASE do so ASAP - it is a disaster waiting to happen. If you believe that it is doing a useful job and want to keep it then I would recommend that you inspect/replace it at each and every oil change but I have heard of foam breaking up after only a few hundred miles, so look at my pictures and think hard before keeping it. Yet again I have to thank Richard Young for the loan of some tools which made the job much easier - he really is a useful chap to have nearby.

Graham, you say: But the FAQ article says:

Wet sump K-series with mechanical OPG. I got the car out this morning and noticed a faint zzzizzzing noise in time with the engine revs. I drove a hundred yards or so and then noticed that the oil pressure was a bit low (35psi) for a cold engine. I pulled up and watched as the oil pressure rose to 45psi at idle but dropped whenever I increased revs. Whipped off bonnet but could so nothing obvious apart from the zzz noise seeming to come from the front end of the engine. My initial thoughts are that the oil pump is on the way out. Does this sound likely? If so, how hard is it to access/change? Edited by - Ray Pearce on 22 Apr 2010 10:54:55

Roy, are you referring to the Autocom Logic Independence Wireless? The wireless part makes it very expensive as an intercom system and I imagine gives little benefit in a seven.

There are roll pins in the end of the cam shaft that locate in holes in the sprockets. They can only go back on in the same place but the cams themselves might (will) have rotated and need aligning again before the belt is refitted.

If you haven't got verniers then you won't need dial gauges. Line up the sprocket marks at 90BTDC. Slip in the locking tool. Crack the bolts holding the sprockets. Loosen the tensioner and remove the belt from the sprockets. You can now remove the sprockets and access the seals. Refit the sprockets, line up the marks as they were before and slip the locking tool back in. Providing that the crankshaft hasn't moved then your timing will not have changed, it's quite easy to spot if the sprockets are a tooth out

That excellent chap Richard Young (jj48) had a rummage through his box'o'bits and came up with the goods. What a useful magpie that bloke is

No idea about part numbers but the front seals are black and the rears are brown/red. The seals can be removed by carefully screwing a pair of small self tappers into them and pulling. To fit the new seal, wipe seal and camshaft with oil and slide over the end of the shaft being careful not to damage the inner lip. I used a large socket which matched the outer diameter of the seal to tap the seal home.

I know I'm tight but I didn't mention that Polevault have a minimum invoice of £10 and something inside me tells me its wrong to pay £10 +p&p when all I want is a tiny little spring clip.

After a scary moment during WightBlat when I lost power halfway through an overtaking manoeuvre I discovered that the connector to the throttle pot sensor was missing its retaining clip and had come loose. This appears to be a 3 way Junior Timer connector and although I have found a source (Polevault) for the connectors (complete with clip) I can't find anyone who can supply just the clip. Should I stop being a tightwad and just buy the whole connector or does anyone know where I can get just the clip?

Peter - Something like these? Metal stem rather than black plastic but should do the job. I bought a similar switch for use with the electronic indicators that I got in one of Normans bulk-buys a few years back. I must get round to fitting it some day.

The immobiliser needs to be disarmed before the ECU can learn the code. You problem seems to be between the immobiliser and the remote rather than an ECU issue. Have you tried resetting the immobiliser - press the "arm" button five times and then press disarm. Are the batteries in the remote good?

Isn't that Chaz?

When I replaced my diff I followed the excellent instructions (with pictures) on Myles' website here

Something like the one here?

Check the hazard lights switch. This has a buzzer that sounds when it is partly operated and might be going off under braking.

I agree with the A021 185/70/r13 suggestion. I switched from 14" wheels a year or so ago and got a set of 13" K&N Minator wheels shod with A021's from George Polley for about £100 per corner all in.

Try calling Caterham. They don't always charge the full postage as shown by the on-line ordering system. See TomB's comment here

I was looking at the pdf from the Emerald website here

The manual has a chapter on setting up the immobiliser (page 41 of the latest manual) which explains it all in some detail. If you still can't find it, you need to select Immobiliser from the Setup drop down menu. Then you disarm the immobiliser and click the reset button. This should cause the Emerald to learn your immobilisers code and activate the immobiliser function.

I reckon one of these together with one ofthese would work for under £50

You could always take it down to your local Toyota dealer. Just add your car to the queue and hope they are too busy to notice

Well, I believe that AskThePolice answer is too simplistic and is wrong on at least one other count. You can drive to and from an MOT test without a valid MOT. As I thought, here is AskThePolice contradicting itself. Edited by - Ray Pearce on 12 Feb 2010 14:52:55