Domus
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Everything posted by Domus
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As I understand it the prep must be perfect for even the most expensive stuff to stick. The cheaper stuff will lift whatever you do. I went for plastic floor tiles, they are very good, make the place look good and add a bit of insulation when lying under the car. The only prep was to sweep, and chisel off the worst of the high spots. Done in a day and you can park on it as and when.
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Hi Bill Be careful lifting the rad by using the other holes you may lose the clearance between the rad and the nosecone. Ask me how I know. I would just slot the holes with a round file.
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There are three plastic tees on the Sigma. Replaced all mine with brass when the large one deformed and was weeping coolant. I posted a warning at the time as I found the original part online and the spec for max temp was about the same as the normal Sigma running temp. I'm sure the original post is about somewhere. JK seems to have the magic touch when it comes to using the search facility.
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My Sigma 150 has NGK TR5B-13s so I expect they are the same across the Sigma range.
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Which cams did you fit and where from? I would be intersested in what cam timing yours is set to.
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Yes please.
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I made two fingers out of ally strip, one longer than the other to hold the cables in place, look ok polished against the black cover. However they do not look as cool as the ti one Me want, if you ever decide to make some more put my name on the list please.
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Yellow with Black wings, turned off onto Scout Road. I was in the Golf returning from Grange after delivering a car full of stuff. I was about 5 cars behind so not the best view.
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Cut a hole in the tank, at least the same size as the inlet pipe. Pressure then can not build. Fit another hose in this hole and bend it over in a loop and secure it to bottom chassis rail. I very much doubt any oil would make it this far.
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Viton stands a much higher temp than Nitrile. On my days working on rotary vane air compressors hot oil (80c) and 150psi would turn a nitrile seal flat and brittle in a matter of months. Juat as I was finishing working on compressors we started to see silicone O rings on a few applications they felt very soft and seemed to stay that way from major service to major service.
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Interested, have you a ball park figure in mind? Will it be plug and play for us electrical numpties?
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Looks like a different one to mine, my car is a summer 2010 build. Speak to Think Automotive, ask for Carl he will fix you up with the right bits phone: 08448 700596
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I had two Danfoss senders fail on my Sigma. First one failed to 0 psi, second one failed to max. Ditched it and now use a mechanical one with a low pressure warning light. Much happier now. I used a braided hose to a Tee on a chassis rail with an adjustable switch and from there a hose to the new gauge.
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I locked the crank with the Ford pin and the slots in the cams were level enough for the tool to go in (with a slight tap) It was after doing the job that talk on here led me to believe that the timing may be out. I have a timing disc and DTI but these are uselesss without the data required. Someone on here must know surely.
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A very good question. Mine is a 150, I changed the cam belt and water pump over the winter. Not 100% sure that I got the cam timing spot on due to the fact that the Ford alignment tool is not supposed to match up with the 150 cams. The cams are Piper with 150 stamped on the end. I asked Piper for the spec and they replied that as the cams were exclusive to Caterham they could not help me. If you do find out please post on here. The car runs well but I would like to make sure that the valves are opening and closing at the right times.
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Many thanks for that very comprehensive answer.
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On the Easimap the TPS setting is shown. It needs to be 1.04v at idle. The TPS is a black plastic unit on the back of the throttle spindle near the ECU. Two small Allen headed screws need to be slackened and the unit turned. Be warned it can be frustrating as it moves when doing up the screws again.
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It should almost fall off, as above give it a tap but be ready to catch it and the bearings.
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Doubt very much you getting one in there. Best to use a nut & bolt and jack the thing out. Undo the nyloc nut and wind it down 'till it rests on a bolt head screwed all the way into a nut, trapping it on the bearing housing. Hold one and unscrew the other. If it does not jack out the taper get it tight and tap the housing (big tap). You will probably drop the thing a time or two but persistance and shouting will see it come off. Good luck
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I got SV engine mounts for an S3
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This is one reason never to top up the brake fluid reservoir. As long as you don't have a leak, when the fluid becomes low it indicates wear on the pads. If you keep topping it up to the max to compensate for pad wear you risk overflow when pushing back the pistons for pad replacement. With new pads and a full reservoir the system has the correct amount of fluid.
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Redline 01883 346515
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As above, I think you may have dislodged the upper White nylon bush. It is split, with two lugs that locate in the rubber and steel bush. Top tip is to glue the split bush in place and use a lube to fit the whole thing back in the tube. Good luck
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Worth stripping, cleaning and repacking with grease. Also check that the movement is not on the bottom spherical bearing in the wishbone.
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My Sigma (2010) has a Green 4 pin plug on the Lambda sensor the other half of the plug will be somewhere on the outside of the driver footwell. Good luckand enjoy the build.
