Domus

New flywheel fitted and first road test feels quicker. It spins up much quicker and seems to want to fly. A good investment I think. When taking the engine out of the car I found the centre exhaust manifold bolt loose, not falling out but certainly not as tight as the others. I suspect this played a part in my lumpy running. A new TPS was fitted and the engine started first kick and was allowed to warm up, then the TPS, idle speed and throttle bodies balance were all adjusted to the recommended settings which took a few cycles to get right. One problem that came up was the TPS value was all over the place which turned out to be a poor latch on the plug connector, it would not click into place, once this was sorted the rest fell into place. Idle is smooth now at around 950, throttle bodies are in sync at a reading of 4 Kg/H with the TPS at 1.04v. Happy bunny

I assume you mean the spigot next to number 4 injector, if so it seems to be sealed, the open spigot on the MAP sensor has a hose to atmosphere bent down towards the road. New plugs bought today. Engine is coming out next week for fitting of a lightened flywheel, when it goes back in I will fit the new TPS and set up at 1.04v with ignition on (top tip) and only fit the new plugs if I still get no joy. I find the data on the easimap screens baffling. I am a definite nuts and bolts man. What I need is a"Get to know your easimap" session.

I ended up changing the Lambda just to see if I got different readings on the laptop, which i did. However the idle was still lumpy and the revs were not steady. I noticed that just moving the allen key in the adjuster a thou or two moved the revs about 500 RPM and had the TPS voltage switching too and fro. Again just loosening off the TPS screws made dramatic changes to the voltage and the revs, it really is super sensitive. TPS removed and inspected nothing obvious and refitted. Adjustments made again as when the engine was restarted the idle was down at 800 or so. New TPS ordered from Ebay at £17.00 it seems cheap enough

Many thanks, will try this on Sunday.

The last couple of runs in the Seven I have had a feeling that not all was 100%, nothing i could put my finger on but I thought I needed to re fuel sooner than expected and not quite as smooth low down in the rev range. I checked it with the MBE lead and Easymap software yesterday, 1.04v for the TPS at 950 RPM and balanced throttle bodies and all seemed fine. Went to Cholmondley today and the idle was very lumpy in traffic and seemed to rock the car, under load (when we had a little break in traffic) it pulled like a train. Last time the car behaved like this it drank fuel like it was going out of fashion, a new Lambda was fitted. This was a couple of years ago before re mapping by the Two Steves. Today it seemed to be just a little thirstier than normal. When I connect the lead over the weekend what values indicate a good v bad Lambda?

Antonio Would love to see a photo of that installation.

Using drill bits as gauges a 9.5 mm goes between but a 10.00 mm will not. 2010 Sigma 150.

Ring spanner and do it up FT ps FT does NOT stand for Finger Tight

Hi Nigel Sounds like bad news, I expect the grot traps are open and full of wet leaves etc. By all accounts on here it may be a re skin is the only proper fix. I hope I'm wrong

There are always questions on here about electrical problems and most seem to end up being due to bad earths or connections. I built mine in 2010 and used Contralube on all connections. Up to now not one electrical problem. http://contralube.com/contralube-770/. Well worth it in my humble opinion.

Just been talking to a local propshaft firm. They intimate that the original Caterham propshaft is not of the best quality, also the seal path segment into the gearbox is sometimes a little short which allows a little "bouncing" which in turn leads to leaking. Taking mine in next week and will report back.

Thanks for the info.

Mankee, can you explain just what a "Top Spec" propshaft is and how it differs from the standard. Ta

I have a Sigma one (smaller input shaft) I upgraded to an SPC one last year. The old one only has about 12,000 miles on it.

May I be the first to say it. Don't need one, wife knows everything. Boom Boom.

Wiggle do free P&P when you spend more than £10.

Too early to say but it does look and feel to be good quality.

Bought that one from Wiggle, £21.25 HERE

Used the info from here for my 150 to good effect, however when trying to sort out a poor idle on a 140 the TPS was nowhere near the 1.04v. recomended for the 150. In the end we got the idle speed around 950 and moved the TPS to allow it to idle at cold. After stopping the engine and with ignition on we got the 0 to 15 on the Throttle Site 1 with no slack in the cable. Car now idles at cold and seems to run well but I would like to know the correct settings for future reference. Are the125 settings different again?

Before ringing Steve, visit the loo and make sure you have a comfy chair.

I have a Holux 245. Worked well up until I upgraded my TomTom for this years European trip. On day one the TomTom froze to a grey screen and lost all satellites. I rebooted but at the worst possible moments for the next day or two it did the same. Swapped units with another car and both worked well, put the Holux in another car and his Sat Nav played up. Ditched the Holux now for an old iPhone with a £1.99 speedo app. Very strange how you do as we say Ooop North

If you think that is engineering porn, then just wait 'till you see what Premier Power does to a Sigma flywheel. Quite scandalous.

Fame at last I went for a walk to the pits and when I got back I found that my spare had been loaned to a chap in the Silver parade as he had a puncture and no spare. I now have a spare that has had track time at "The Home of Motorsport" Should put the value up a little.

One Two Three.

I do hope this is going to happen. If not can you supply a drawing perhaps?