Graham Sewell
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Everything posted by Graham Sewell
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Norm, That was exactly the problem that I had with my x-flow. Copper gaskets did not work until I took the car to Chris Wheeler at the 7's workshop and had the manifold mating surfaces ground flat. Since then, it has been fine. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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try here Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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Windy, Sorry, I cannot remember the bolt size. I just happened to have one lying around in the spares bag. IIRC the hex head was 17mm or the imperial equivalent so there cannot be that many options. If you have the long bolt, it should not be too difficult to measure the diameter, and for length, add 20mm to the length of the spacer tube. Send me a BM if you need me to double check the size at the weekend. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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It looks like you are not using the spare wheel spacerthat bolts onto the wheel using two wheel nuts. Without that, the bolt that you have will seem impossibly long. Depending on the bolt that you have, you may need the spacer sleeve. I do not bother with a spacer sleeve, but use an ordinary hex-headed bold onto the spacer - so that the hex head is recessed and cannot be removed easily by thieves - unless they have a socket set with them. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Edited by - Graham Sewell on 26 May 2009 09:49:10
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If you had a 92/87'c switch, then the chances are that the thermostat opens around 82'c - therefore a 79'c will never switch off. You need to replace the stat to match the switch. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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You will lose the heel pivot point on the chassis rail and about an inch of toe room (significant if you have size 11 feet). Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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MusCat, They may onbly last 8000 miles, but I only managed 300 miles last year because of poor weather and various work/family commitments taking up my weekends. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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I have always been told by various Guru's that the xflow works best with a CO reading of 3% so your current figures are spot on. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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Allegedly, tyres should be thrown after 6 years.... So most peoples spare wheel is useless. The date code on the side is the week number and year of manufacture. So it should be easy to work out. But if you are lazy, Car Bibles has a calculator (in red) ust before the description of the E mark.... Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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What I found when I fitted the Vulcan MAxiflow II head with unleaded was that I lost a fair chunk of performance off the top end. I was most disappointed until I got the dizzy recalibrated by Aldon. Now it flies and the petrol is cheaper (but nowhere near cheap enough to pay for the headwork). Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Edited by - Graham Sewell on 15 May 2009 13:46:18
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Seconded for Burghfield Starter & Alternator Centre. They rebuilt my Xflow alternator and it has been fine since. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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Replacing the bush takes less than 30 minutes and I treat it as a disposable item during every annual service. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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Also check carb balance and valve timing. I had terrible trouble with this years ago until I changed to a hotter plug (Champion N9Y of any variant). Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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You could probably try to get someone to weld it back into place. From what I can see, the older single screw filters that had this sort of bracket were discontinued a while back and the new ones have two screws. So if you need to replace them, you'll probably need two! Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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My thermostatic switch failed one hot summers evening on the way back from a "classics in the park" type concert - just as I got caught in traffic. The temp went into the red and the only way to cool the engine was to put the heater on full blast. So with an outside temp >25'C and the heater going, we were toast...... Now I find that I use the manual switch any time I get into traffic. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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Sat next to a Ford GT40 in Gulf Oil colors. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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If yours was a yellow Seven, then the green/yellow was me :-) Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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The Aldon dizzy is just a Lucas one which has been recalibrated. If you then have the Aldon Ignitor electronics internally, then this is normally very robust. I do not remember hearing anyone saying that they have had a problem - but my memory is not what it used to be.... If the coil is getting hot, then the main culprit is overcharging for whatever reason. Check the voltage when running (as has been mentioned before). As a side issue, do you have an aftermarket rev-limiter installed? If so, have you tried bypassing this as they have been known to cause problems. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Edited by - Graham Sewell on 17 Apr 2009 11:33:01
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Live axle standard Spax adjustable dampers - Settings ?
Graham Sewell replied to JACK FLASH's topic in TechTalk
From what I remember, there used to be 16 settings and the method was to fully tighten (stiffen(?)) and then count the clicks back. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! -
My axle was fine with the standard supersprint engine 135bhp/122lbft until I did a day at Brooklands and slid round the slalom course and hit a pothole. Next thing I knew, the axle needing shimming. Been alright since - but purely road use and no kerbs.... Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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Have you tried Namrick for nuts and bolts? Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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I followed Roger's advice with BP7ES years ago - for road use they are perfect. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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I used a switch like SW9 and a relay like R20B. The cable was Ref 20 in a selection of colours (Black/Green for the relay to fan switch - switched side, Green for the relay to fan switch live and Black for the relay to switch (Earth)). Cheers Graham Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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I located the relay inside the engine bay near the radiator to minimise the 12V runs. I then piggybacked the switched circuit onto the existing switch and also piggy backed the live feed on the relay from the lived side of the switched circuit on the relay. Then all that was needed was a switched earth lead from the earth side of the relay to a switch on the dashboard which feeds into the earth loom. This means that if anything goes wrong, it is only a low voltage, low current wire running back to the dashboard. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!
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I went through this several years ago and James Whiting supplied me with the correct belt in the end. From Wilco I can also see a qba775 that should only be 0.5inch shorter. Enough to get away from the brake pipe but not so close that you cannot get it over the pulleys. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!