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alextangent

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  1. *arrowup*Bump Any more words of wisdom before I start? Ta Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  2. Thanks James, will call. Cheers. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  3. Ta Jon. I'll be in touch when I'm back Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  4. Aw no ☹️ one less in Scottingland. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  5. So my trusty old 1700 supersprint xflow is showing signs of age. I did a compression test and #1 cyl is very low (in fact, they're all low). Readings were #1 to #4 (in bars on a Gunson compression tester) 5, 6, 6 and 6; with oil down the bores, 6, 8, 8 and 8. That doesn't sound good Symptoms are a chuffing & misfire at " class="smiley" />, and a truly horrible lumpy red paint job. First, the HMR lump. I intend doing as little as possible on this engine. 1. Strip off the old paint on the block, repaint 2. Since the head is off, remove timing chain cover, ensure cams set properly for TDC 3. Get head gasket, clean & refit head 4. Fit new clutch, clutch plate (I have these already), spigot bearing 4. Replace water pump, dress with carbs, alternator etc from existing engine. Questions; Since it's sat for a while, what else should I do to make sure it doesn't blow up on first crank? What gasket would be recommended? Any other stuff I should do? I did think of removing the sump & new gaskets as there's a slight weep, but I want to stop short of re-ringing, deglazing etc. Once that's in, I'll look at the original engine and assess my options when it's apart. Again, what should I be looking for? Got the rebuilding an xflow book btw. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  6. James, no mail from you, am I still on for the 1/2 shafts? Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  7. James, I'll take the half-shafts. BM me. Thanks! Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  8. I had a very similar thing wot 'appened to me before an MOT. Very stiff steering, low speed, steering weighed a ton, intermittent. At first I thought it was the rack or a trunnion or the top link. The MOT garage identified the problem; a track rod end that looked like half a builder's yard had crawled in under the rubber, and corrosion on the bearing surfaces. It was sticking (almost locking) in a "rolled back" position, presumably after compression on cornering. Worth checking? Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  9. Errr... slipped my mind, sorry. LM on your number. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  10. I'm back. I'll call you tomorrow (Sat) am. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  11. Just buy the cheaper blue stuff. It needs changed every two years, but if your hoses are anything like mine, you'll be replacing them and the coolant every two years too. You really can't go very wrong as long as you don't mix the blue with the pink. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  12. ok, will do. Friday at the earliest; I'm in London on biz this week. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  13. Based in Edinburgh, so it will probably need couriered or GONADs. Blatmail me a tel no and we can discuss logistics etc. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  14. I have a stainless 4-2-1 complete rear exit system from a 1700 xflow. Includes a spare branch for cyls2&3. The can could do with cutting open and repacked, but apart from that it's in good nick. Blatmail me. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
  15. I did it. The two holes for the new link are nerve racking to cut. They're supposed to be 1" dia, but I had to extend both as the links were fouling the skin. The result ended up softer than the original setup, so the shocks needed to be adjusted stiffer. The results are noticeable, as the car turns in much more accurately. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... 😬
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