Beelzebub

Sorry to hear that ☹️ I have to say though Alan Warburton at DTA has been of immense help to me in the past. He's not quite as chatty as Dave Walker though & is strictly business on the phone. I'd definitely use a DTA system again if the need arose. I know Emerald have a great reputation but I've never owned one. D.

Have you considered a DTA box. Not widely used in Caterham circles for some reason but an excellent choice IMO. D.

Just done mine "Tile red" by Ronseal Should be called "Richard the third" because that's what colour it really is. Not what it said on the tin. Humph D.

I'd 2nd Paul's comments. The oil light being on means zero oil pressure Unless you've configured the light to come on at a pressure other than zero. (Thinking of my SPA gauge & oil light) If the engine's been run in this condition & under the circumstances where the DS tank's been emptied by the pressure stage I personally would be having a closer look. D.

test Edited by - davesport on 9 Jun 2010 09:37:14

I think you've answered your own question. I'm sure Ammo told me to weigh the new packing for my Raceco can & not to use any extra. Why not try removing some of the packing & redistributing the rest D.

Boof Car now sold via PH. Many thanks to the new owner for making the sale quick & easy. I wish him & his new steed all the best. D. Edited by - Davesport on 8 Jul 2010 17:43:30

There's only one answer & I'm surprised nobody else has suggested it as it's one of the most popular modifications available. You need a more powerful engine & by a considerable margin judging from the way you've bent the pedal. I fitted my stop to the floor. The pressure on that little pedal must be considerable & having the stop at the top sems wrong to me. There's the leverage ratio to throw into the equation too. I personally can't see the resin or tape working. If moving the stop's not viable how about faricating a more robust pedal 🤔 D.

It's not gone.....Yet ❗

Now also on PH PH add

BTTT

Boink Yawn......

Entirely normal. At that voltage the battery is in a state of discharge. The circumstances by which it reached this state are relevant. 12.7 V can be considered fully charged. Voltages above this IE 14 V are the result of the surface charge after the charging process is complete. This disipates over time hence the 13.2 & 13 V readings from the other cars. 12.1's not good. If the charging systems working then the battery's goosed ☹️ D.

Hi John. Sorry, until the car is sold I'm not splitting anything from the sale. Thanks for yor interest, D.

If the thread's damaged, then it's capability as a thread is already reduced. Running a die nut down it is'nt going to make it any weaker. D.