Graham Sewell

Yes, that's the one that gives first degree burns on the ankles when there is snow on the ground.

There should be plenty of room to get the dizzy in/out with the carbs in place. The one bolt is easily accessible but make sure that you know where the rotor arm is point first (so that it is easier to retime the new dizzy). YHM Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

The map shows 10 deg for engine speeds below 500rpm. So my guess is that during cranking the voltage drops below a level that the ECU require. After all, when the battery was charged (4 hours later), it fired on te first turn of the key. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

As some of you may remember, I "upgraded" to MegaJolt last September to cure an intermittent misfire. Having left the car in the garage since October because of weather or work commitments, finally got to go for a blat yesterday. However, where the old clockwork system could fire up providing the starter cranked the engine over, MegaJolt seems to need much more oomph in the battery - which is a shame as it resembled a cold pancake on Ash Wednesday when I tried to coax the car into life. Fortunately, 4 hours on a charger rescued the situation - but limited the range of the blat due to light/time constraints. I guess the next upgrade will be a battery conditioner.... Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Edited by - Graham Sewell on 7 Mar 2011 13:59:06

On the assumption that we are NOT talking about a xflow, doesn't the engine have the immobiliser built in to the ECU? Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

Has anyone ever tried Peltor Bluetooth Headsets Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

I just tie-wrapped it in place! Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

I know that you are looking for a specific map, but just to add that the cd comes with a map for a Zetec Blacktop that will certainly get you going. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

I have my old (very old) aldon dizzy setup that I am looking to sell. has standard Caterham advance and was working when I took it off the car a few years back (not the later dizzy that may have had an intermittent misfire). Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

70 profile will have been standard on a classic. Somebody will have thought that going down to 60's will have been a sexy upgrade! After all, lower is always better - right? Init? Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

Before you go to these lengths have you done a compression test on the engine or tried to determine whether there is anything abnormal about it? Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

Tim, I put the Caterham 4-pot calipers onto my live axle x-flow car. The reason I changed was that I could lock the rears before the fronts - which never gives great confidence. BTW, I have only the standard M/C and find no problems with this setup. I think it is one of the better upgrades I have done, but equally I find that the first blat of spring is less than confident - as if the disks and pads need a thorough derusting first. Get a coupe of hundred miles on the car and they improve dramatically. I hope that you find it to be your solution too. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

Mine is a little Heath Robinson by contrast. The company who fitted it could not get the original pulley out without removing the engine as the chassis rail in front is too close. Therefore, they reckon that the torque for the bolt should have been enough to stop the wheel moving relative to the pulley via a couple of spacers located by loctite. Must admit, if I was doing it again, I would drill and tap 8mm holes in the pulley avery 45 degrees (I think) to register with 7 holes in the standard pulley - this would then give a vernier approach to lining up. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

Hi, Which map did they use - the generic xflow on the CD? Did you get a rev limit set? How did they secure the trigger wheel to the pulley? I have had mine for about 2 weeks but not had a chance to get out much :-( Cheers Graham Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

So - for those who use OptiMate, how do you wire it in to the car???? Use a cigerette lighter socket (or similar) - or just leave a flying lead lying around. Just that I would prefer not to have to remove the bonnet and clip onto the battery terminals as the garage is small and it is highly likely that the bonnet would get damaged one day. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

Agree with Rob G - that is how Chris Wheeler fixed my blowing exhaust. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

The company that fitted my MegaJolt system have taken what seems to be an unorthodox method for fixing the trigger wheel. They say that because - the standard pully is larger than the wheel that they cannot weld it in place. - the wheel has about 10mm of spacers (25mm diameter) behind it that they cannot dowel it So they have just located it on the main crankshaft (longer) bolt and tightened it up to the normal torque and say that this will hold perfectly well unless I do something silly like slacken the bolt - in which case the location is fairly easy to replicate. So, dear POBC, are they correct or should I be paranoid and see if there is a better way to hold this all together? The engineer in me would say that a larger precision made spacer (diamter and thickness) could be used and doweled through, but I have no idea how I would get one made (other than ask someone with a lathe). Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

email sent Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

I have 2 sets of 4 plugs that are now surplus to my requirements as MegaJolt requires resistor plugs. These plugs suit Xflow (1.6 sprint or 1.7 supersprint (if road use only)). So, free to a good home - buyer to collect from Reading area. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Edited by - Graham Sewell on 20 Sep 2010 12:04:03

I have a standard 1995 setup - but that does include a fan mopunted on the engine side and a couling around it. I don't know what was standard in 1985. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

I would think that anything that can push more air through the rad rather than let it slide past would help - as does removing any dead flies/wasps/etc from the matrix. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

I notice that nobody has mentioned the couling around the fan - this is essential for the fan to actually suck air through the radiator as against just pushing air around behind the radiator. Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

Gavin, Were you correct with your sizing of 6mm nylocs? Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

I know that I think too much - but once the trigger wheel and sensor are bolted in place, how do I change the fanbelt? Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

I stick to the BP7ES even on the 1700 xflow as the B8ECS foul too quickly. The protruding nose on the BP models allows better cooling at high engine speeds while the hotter plug prevents soot build up at lower speeds (not dissimilar to Champion N9Y designs). If ever I get close to getting mine on a track, then I'll go for the cooler plugs. But as I have been told too many times, my exhaust is just an empty pipe directing gases at the car behind and does nothing for sound levels, I doubt that I'll ever see another B8ECS:-) Cheers, Graham ------ Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!