Smegnoguk

No new stereo. Seems to me that if 50ma is normal and there is an intermittent 250+ma drain I haven't yet located the correct fuse.

Talking to myself here but nothing unusual there. Backup lights are REVERSING LIGHTS! 😬 Might just leave that fuse out for a bit to see if it solves the problem Presumably making sure the gear stick is nowhere near reverse when parked is also a good idea. Thanks to those who responded. Just spotted your reply Tim. It was definitely off the scale at least twice so fault may be intermittent. Will get a better meter today. Many thanks again to all. Edited by - Smegnoguk on 29 Mar 2014 14:24:44

I have located the 50 milliamp drain to fuse 9 which is described as "Backup" in the manual. What does this do? Can I just leave it out?

It is a crude multimeter but I have tried again and after the initial deflection it settles at 50 milliamps.

Help! 😳 My son's car. Battery went flat so I charged it up. Went flat again after 3 days so I replaced it with a new one from Halfords. Also went flat. Have read that circuits can jam on even when all is switched off an drain battery. Have charged battery again and tested all fuse tops with a multimeter to see if there is a voltage across any of them but no luck. If I switch meter to amps and put it in series with the negative terminal on 250 milliamps there is a strong reading off the scale. Does that mean there is a current flowing when there shouldn't be?

OMG! Kwick-fit wanted £229 for the same tyre!

That's my feeling. Have decided to go for the Bridgestone at Sheen Tyres £148 including VAT. Thanks for your help.

Bridgestone or Continental tyres for my son'r Civic Type R are £140 + VAT. Tyre fitter in Munster Road, Fulham has recommended Kenda tyres for £80 + VAT. Can I trust a tyre that costs £80?

Sent both items (ECU and motor) off to ECU Testing. They were excellent. Had a text message when they received it and a phone call two working days later to take payment and then a text message to say that it was on it's way back and it all works now. Total cost about £200. Thanks for all your help. Edited by - Smegnoguk on 8 Aug 2011 16:30:20

I have found two places on the internet that offer replacement units for around £200 but replacing the whole thing looks like a big undertaking so I have gone for a firm called ECU Testing. You remove the motor and the ECU and send them off for testing. If they need replacing, the cost is about £150. The Fiat unit is over £600 plus fitting. Word of warning here. The ECU is held in with one torque bolt. Sounds easy enough but took me two hours to remove lying on my side with the seat edge sticking into my ribs because you need a special ratchet torque spanner (I had a torque socked but there isn't room between the bulkhead and the ECU to fit it. In the end, I had to make my own tool by jamming the torque socket into a ratchet spanner with electrical tape and bashing the two together with a hammer. Why Fiat engineers thought it necessary to fit this unit in with a torque bolt is beyond my imagining unless it is to make it impossible for people to work on themselves. It will be going back with a conventional hexagon bolt. Thanks to all for your help. Edited by - Smegnoguk on 31 Jul 2011 13:43:27

Sorry Stuart. I thought you were ignoring me until I spotted your e-mail. Many thanks.

Electric power steering has failed. ☹️ Common problem apparently. However, when I asked the Fiat dealer if it was OK to drive (without causing damage), they said not to because it could damage the pump. This makes no sense because it has electric power steering so I presume that there isn't a pump. Can anyone tell me if it will damage the steering to drive it 7 miles to the garage? You have to heave on the wheel pretty hard so something is taking the strain. Any help appreciated.

Tyres are Yokohama 185/60 R13s and clearance under the sump with nobody in it is 50 mm. Member No. 10421 (unable to think of a single car I would want to replace it with!) here

Me again. Whilst I am here, my car has always grounded in Surrey B roads because, for some reason, the ride is ultra low and with 14 stone of lard in it, it constantly scrapes the tarmac sending out showers of sparks. I have 13" minilite wheels with Yokohama tyres and suspect that a larger wheel would solve the problem. Would this upset the handling very much? If not, what size/make should I go for? Thanks 😬 Member No. 10421 (unable to think of a single car I would want to replace it with!) here

1999 Classic with 8 valve 1600 cc Vauxhall engine. Last time it went in for an MOT, James Whiting pointed out the the cooling system hoses were beginning to perish so I ordered a set from Caterham Cars. Does anyone know how easy/difficult these are to fit with the car on the ground? The car would have been on axle stands when I first built it and I was 11 years fitter than I am now. If easy, are there any rubber lubricants I can safely use to help make the job relatively easy? Any guidance appreciated. 😬 Member No. 10421 (unable to think of a single car I would want to replace it with!) here Edited by - smegnoguk on 9 Nov 2010 12:36:45