PAC

A friend is looking for a Vauxhall powered Caterham. He's not looking for anything too fancy as he's not got a lot to spend, but I'm sure he could be persuaded to up his game if he was sat in one. Thanks Paul

I'll check the voltage under load, and then get the dealer to KERCHING put the KERCHING laptop KERCHING on it Thanks all.

That all sounds sensible! I did think it may be the AC, so switched it off, but the same happened. The battery hasn't let us down, so maybe it is the sensor. Thw warranty is out!

SWMBO has bought a S/H 57 plate MINI. All good, except.......... When you stop at the lights the engine dies.. OK, that I understand. Then without any other inputs on any pedals etc is starts again about 2 seconds later Most odd, and rather than saving CO2 will certainly knacker the battery soon enough . Does anyone know if there is a known software issue here?

Have you got the larger drive pulley? As mentioned here, the alternator will no doubt be reving much faster than in a 1300 Escort, hence why this is available. If you're unsure come back and I'll measure mine...........Wahay! 😬 P

Check out the boot space................. Who's laughing now, Huh?

The procedure I was given was to push the bearing onto the shaft to 'xx'mm, then assemble all back into the axle. Where 'xx' is a dimension very slightly less than its final resting place. Then tighten the hub nut to a torque of 'FT'* This then finally positions the bearing on the shaft with the hub on the taper. There will be no clearance between the hub and bearing. However, I found I was not good at drawing the line between FT and *ST, and indeed did not lock the hub onto the taper properly, which I had no way of confirming as I had not done the pre assembly measurement. Please feel free to shoot all this down if it's Bollox, but this is how I was informed! P *F@cking tight *Stripped thread

If you are doing the work yourself, I suggest the following procedure: 1. Buy new lock nuts. 2. When you get the new half shaft, fit the hub and old nut, washer etc, to it and torque up (all off the car). 3. Mark or measure the distance of the inner hub face relative to the shaft. 4. Remove the nut again and measure the amount of thread protruding from the hub. 3. Replace the nut a few turns to protect the thread, then give it a whack in a vice to split the hub from the shaft taper. You now know how far the new bearing should be pressed on, and be able to confirm it is fully home when the job is done. I did not do this and had an expensive and frustrating year of hassle, all of my own doing Paul

Excellent! Thanks chaps. I'm not in any rush! Cskip, photos would be really useful. Klunk, YHM! The hemisphere on the box is blue. Revin K, I searched for 'Rubber cone, and Escort agency' Couldn't find any gearbox bits, but I have got a date for Saturday night 😬 P

Can anyone help with a diagram of the correct parts and assembly of the gear lever for my gearbox. I don't think it's ever been right since I bought the car! First off, what gearbox is it? It's a four speed with the integral iron bellhousing. Where the original gear level shaft (not the extension) exits the box, I have two plastic mating spherical dishes and a sphere on the lever, but I'm not sure what the arrangement should be above these, presumably a spring?? Is there a seal?? Then where can I get any missing bits from? P

That auction has turned into a full time (paid??) job V good 😬

In Farnborough they have 15W 40 GTX. Whatever, they've 12L less now! P

There! I've done the most difficult bit for you!! 😬 P

JK Do a search on Utube, there is a video of exactly how to do it. Buy a cam clamp from ebay for £5.0 It really couldn't be simpler. especially in a 7, as access is normally the worst problem.