Graham Sewell
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Everything posted by Graham Sewell
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Not worth spending money on postage - so "buyer" collects. Used ages ago for trunnions and propshaft U/J. Located in RG10 (just East of Reading).
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Ian, You have blatmail
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Used to be used on my Seven - no longer have the car so no longer need the stands. Based in RG10 area - "buyer" to collect. Free or donation to charidee.
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I believe that the standard stat is 92'C, but you can also get an 82'C. As for the fan not kicking-in, you could put an over-ride switch in so you have control when stuck in traffic. A search here should get many options on how to wire it up.
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For the nifty-fifty (or even the 18-55mm kit lens) a simple extension tube will get you close to macro magnification for sensible money.
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You can also get adapters to use Olympus OM-Zuiko lenses on Canon Digital SLRs.
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any old junk will do
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I know Chris Wheeler always used to clean the inside of my engine bay with WD40 to make sure that the oil form the trusty x-flow was liberally and evenly distributed. Makes it nice and shiny and prevents some corrosion.
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Quoting blade_runner: I bought standard discs from Canley Classics for about £13 each, clamped the old ones to them as a pattern and drilled them.. proper job I seem to remember that you were supposed to heat treat the discs AFTER drilling and that any holes had to be radiused in order to prevent stress fractures.
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From my understanding, any braking is mainly based on the surface area between the pads and disks. So, all other things equal, drilled/grooved disks may increase braking distance due to the smaller area available. The point behind drilling/grooving disks is tio dissipate heat quicker for the next time you are braking hard. This may prevent brake fade over successive braking zones if braking frequently (eg track driving or Stelvio Pass). But, as ever, I may be wrong.
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Just make sure that you check the clearance onto your wheels. 13" wheels can be VERY close fit. To the point where the position of balance weights becomes critical.
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Can you use a waste disposal unit with this type of sink?
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Which socket wrench drive size? 1/4" 3/8" 1/2"
Graham Sewell replied to anthonym's topic in TechTalk
I agree with James - 3/8" for everything except wheel nuts (1/2") as most torques are reasonably small - and with the smaller associated sockets, it is easier to get to the nuts/bolts. -
Another vote for Chris Wheeler. But I guess it depends on whether the car is drivable - if not, can you get breakdown recovery to tow direct to Chris Wheeler? Whether you go to James or Chris, it will probably be sent to Arch for any bodywork.
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How does it start if you try to jump start it from another car/battery? Mine was somewhat reluctant until a colleague suggested that I check the electrolyte levels (even though the battery was < 6 months old). True enough, topped up the electrolyte, put the battery on charge and it starts first time.
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Jon - YHM
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It is with (likely) deep regret that I am now selling my dear old friend (Classic SE 1700 live axle). I built the car 16 years ago and had a lot of fun with it. However, I have not had the time to drive it much in the last few years (1,000 miles in the last 3 years - and half of that was to/from Chris Wheeler!). The advert is here
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Black and white wire near crossflow distributor
Graham Sewell replied to Molecular--Bob's topic in TechTalk
It used to connect to the coil on my car - and thence onto the tacho. If you have the Aldon, then you can either run the two wires to the coil or connect one (cannot remember which) to this black/white cable (I actually remember white with a black trace). -
Mine has never had them and to be honest that gives you easier access to the battery master switch and the bolts holding on the windscreen stanchions if you want to have a tax disc bolted on. Never missed them....
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A rev limiter will stop an engine accelerating past a limit by cutting off the sparks. However, if the car is doing 80mph (6000rpm in 3rd) and you grab 2nd instead of 4th, the engine will be accelerated by the momentum of the car and no removal of sparks can prevent it. Hence the engine gets buzzed to 9000rpm. By contrast, I find without a limiter I am more cautious on the throttle and drive a little slower even though I know that the red line can be abused. I used to love timing a gear change so that I just hit the limited going under a bridge so that the misfire could echo around. Edited by - Graham Sewell on 30 Sep 2011 14:08:02
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I had a rev limited (Omex) on my Seven until it decided to die one day during an overtake and left me without any engine at all. That was scary....
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Did this once myself. Motorway slip road, 3rd gear at 6000rpm, hit 2nd instead of 4th. Massive scream from car, same from me! Watched revs drop away from what I can only guess was 9000rpm. Paranoia mode on, thought that the engine sounded a little odd, but settled in a few hundred yards. Been fine for the last 8 years!
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I can ask my neighbour who has just had a garage built for his Triumph Stag (his choice not mine).
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On my (1700) xflow, just above the engine thermostat is a short column with the coolant pressure cap at the top. At the front of that column is a thermo switch for the radiator with two wires attached. I do not know the age of your 1600 xflow, but did not think that they differed that much as to have a radiator mounted switch - but I could be very wrong. Edited by - Graham Sewell on 5 Sep 2011 16:13:03
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If you just want to check that the thermostat switch is the problem, take a paperclip and connect the two terminals on it. The switch being the one on the filler neck. If the fan fires up with the paperclip and not with the switch (even when it is up to temperature (check the temp that tit is supposed to switch at) - then the switch is the fault. Sometimes just cleaning the terminals can help if any antifreeze has soaked the terminals at any time.