Graham Sewell

Technically speaking you don't need a centre mirror provided that you have external mirrors on nearside and offside. from the MOT Testers Guide Obligatory mirrors Obligatory mirrors are a. an exterior mirror fitted to the offside (right-hand side when seated in the drivers seat), or b, an exterior mirror fitted to the nearside fleft hand side when seated In the drivers seat), or c. an interior mirror. All goods vehicles must have two mirrors, one of which must be option 'a'. Passenger vehicles with no more than 7 passenger seats first used before 1 August 1978 must have any one of the above options. Passenger vehicles with more than 7 passenger seats of any age, and all passenger vehicles first used on or after I August 1978 (not being a minibus as above), must have two mirrors, one of which must be option 'a'.

Did you change the thermostat to a lower temperature?

No the kit was fitted to my 1700 xflow, so the loom that was built will fit a Caterham....

PSJ, I have no knowledge of Dellorto's so cannot say if the TPS will fit - personally I would doubt it. With the exception of the trigger wheel (which is currently Loctite'd to my crankshaft pulley), it is a complete kit. The wiring loom will need a continuity check in case any of the connections broke as I was pulling it through bulkheads. Regards Graham

The entire kit from Trigger Wheels comes in at £338 including the trigger wheel and USB adapter for programming lead. The trigger wheel is £38. So I would be looking at £200 including P&P to the UK for the following: - Megajolt ECU - Coil pack - Crank sensor - Weber Throttle Position Sensor - EDIS Ignition module - Universal crank sensor bracket - Coil pack bracket - Loom from Caterham (may need continuity checks) - Set of 8mm silicone spark plug leads - Complete with software and mapping cable to allow you to tune the system and maps for a wide range of engines - USB Adapter Cheers, Graham

or I have a very low mileage Megajolt going begging - just needs trigger to make a complete kit.

Not sure where my wife got mine, but the backplate is threaded for the allen screws to go into. So there are no nuts on the back. Has worked well for 15 years now.

I used to have the standard front calipers and I would lock up the REARS first in the wet - not nice. Hence I went for the AP 4-pots in front. I may be over-braked, byt the rear drums should only give 10% of the braking anyway.

Hi Jon, If I were more mechanically adept and had more tools then I might be half-arsed to do something. I have already thrown > £600 on this setup and currently have an overweight paperweight in the garage. I do not fancy trying to remove the trigger wheel as it is loctited in place and the space to get a purchase on it is minimal due to the cross member just in from of the pulley. Otherwise, I'd shell out for the Weber wheel kit. And that is assuming that I could find someone to weld it on the pulley in the right place. To say that my trust in mechanics that I have paid for is sadly lacking would be to trivialise it. So far, only Chris Wheeler has not tried to kill me - all other companies that have touch the Seven have - including Ratrace and James Whiting - so I must be jinxed considering the number of cars that they have dealt with in the past. So I prefer to shell out £300 on a new dizzy, coil and leads and know that I can do the work, compared to paying somebody that I don't trust to try and kill me again. TBH - I did not get any significant performance gain and I no longer trust the reliability compared to equipment that I can work on and understand.

Hi, Last September I had an MJ fitted to my less than trusty Xflow by a company in Newbury (AFRacing). Needless to say, things are no longer working - no sparks and the unit does not appear to see the engine turning over. i have replaced the sensor and the lead (both ways round) and still get nowhere. As far as I can tell, because the 35-1 trigger wheel is slightly smaller than the crankshaft pulley, the sensor cannot be put in a good position to pick up the signal. AFRacing no longer exist - went into liquidation earlier this year - so no support there. there is no other official MJ installers nearby and the towing costs to Chris Wheeler would be excessive - in addition to time off work that I can ill afford. Performance wise, I did not find that the 3D ignition was any faster than my memories of the clockwork setup - only slightly better mannered below 2000rpm which is not a big issue for me. Full credit goes to Trigger Wheels who have been as helpful as I could reasonably expect given that my contract was with AFRacing. However, I still cannot get the system to fire. I need to insure the car next week because of the new laws and I need an MOT in the next month otherwise I need to SORN the car in August So I have decided to revert back to clockwork. What I cannot see is how to get the coil pack off the bracket so that I can remount the original Lucas coil. The trigger wheel will need to stay on the car for 2 reasons: - the crankshaft bolt has been replaced with a longer bolt (ie no longer fits without the trigger wheel) - the trigger wheel was also located with loctite (as were the spacing washers) - so a fair amount of brute force will be needed to remove them I may be selling the MJ, EDIS, coil pack and spark plug leads after they have been removed - I am sure they are OK and that it is an installation issue - it is just too costly to carry on debugging. Any ideas?

My usb adaptor (from trigger wheels) ended up on COM8 - and needed to be configured in device manager.

Dave Andrews has a program on the jetting of Weber carbs. If you use his suggestions I don't think that you will be too far out. Certainly, on my car they were near perfect for road use. Edited by - Graham Sewell on 17 May 2011 13:32:17

In full Martini Colours - identification by he McRae/Grist stickers in the back quarterlight window. I presume it is a museum piece somewhere now.

On the back of a flatbed truck - assume the owner did not want wasted mileage on the very beautiful car.

Stephen YHM - sorry if it is too little/too late

I think I got the registration for the red Seven correct - bearing in mind I had to read it backwards in my mirror as I drove past in the opposite directionin my tin top.

For road use, just fill until it starts to weap out of the hole. If you were using it for track days, then oil surge down the legs can lead to premature wear. At least that is all I have ever done, and 16 years/38,000 miles and it is still intact.

So no clues in case we want to stay up till midnight to be the first bidders?

I tried Ruxley as well, but ended up trying to phone the order through as it would not allow a change of delivery address when it was accepting payment. At that point, I was told that they were out of stock. So, I bought mine from Ebay for £59 plus shipping. That included 2l of acid pack and delivery was 3-4 days. btw, filling the battery was a lot simpler than I thought it would be, but then still required about 4 hours on a charger to get it working. Edited by - Graham Sewell on 15 Mar 2011 08:42:04

I wonder which courier company thay use as most will not touch an unsealed lead-acid battery.

probably as you start pressing on the accelerator, you will be advancing the timing. Try waiting a second or two later - so when it is trying to catch.

From painful experience of a certain Caterham specialist fitting mine upside down(!) the nearest part is one of the connection pipes between inside and outside reservoirs. The pipe is not reversible and that then caught on the inside of the wheel.

Jerry, Good point, I forgot about safety specs - I have some but seldom wear them as I have to wear glasses normally.

I have a new dry Banner battery on its way complete with "acid pack" which I assume to mean a bottle with at least 1.6l of sulphuric acid. What are sensible precautions to take when trying to fill the battery - any tips on not splashing me or the work surfaces? My first thoughts were to do in the kitchen sink so that (if bad thngs happen) there is plenty of water to rinse down with. Are latex gloves sufficient - double wrap? Or do I need something a little stronger?

It now appears that the battery can hold its charge for less than 12 hours (charged on Friday night and could not start on Saturday morning). I have a new Banner on its way but am wondering if an Optimate could restore the old battery or is it likely to be a doorstop now?