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Gordon C

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  1. Been some years since I had my axle assy out of the car. When I did I had the car supported on a trolley. This enabled me to roll the car forward or side ways should I need it. The axle was supported by axle stands. With the bolts removed the axle just sat very nicely on the stands. All very easy even single handed.
  2. Clear out ! Lowflying Magazines. Years 2000 to 2007 All very good condition. The odd one or two missing. FREE to anyone that cares to collect from Lightwater, Surrey area. M3 Jct 3. Please message me if you are interested. Thanks all
  3. If you think a mapped Weber Alpha ECU for a xflow would be of help give me a shout. I have one sat around that is mapped for a 1700 xflow on Alpha TB's (40's) Nothing wrong with it. Replaced this with an Emerald ECU when i had the flow rebuilt a few years back.
  4. I have used both Hylomar and an RTV type silicone, preferring the later. In this case > Wurth Super RTV Silicone as my choice sealent. My preferred gasket is the competition gasket http://www.burtonpower.com/competition-sump-gasket-set-ford-x-flow-ohv-kent-711m-bda-fp713kc.html Don't over torque the sump bolts. Any deformity of the pan will lead to a leak. The last time i had the pan off i ended out with a small weep. Thinking it was the fwd banana seal i did it all over again only to find out it was the crankshaft seal. Nice easy fix, just a shame i didn't notice the thing leaking in the first place.....Doh !
  5. I said exactly the same when i was pointed to this earlier today. GJT, I'm sure we use the one and the same fella for our engines. Good enough for me
  6. Engine oils and ZDDP Might be of interest to you ? http://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-performance/443674-zinc-myth-test-data-dozen-more-oils.html
  7. Clive missed this one....Yep power steering Gordon
  8. Without seeing the sort of access and space you have its difficult to advise or know exactly what you're looking for. People have spoken about extensions and universal sockets. All have there place and day. Not seen mentioned here ring ratchets. You'll get these in straight format or with off set / bent ends. Ideal for confined spaces provided you have the swing radially. Reasonable quality for the home workshop use is the Halfords pro range. Nice fine ratchets on these unlike some of the cheap crap you get from the far east. Another thought is the clutch ratchet. I've had one from Britool tools for years. Although i call it a ratchet strictly speaking it isn't. What you have here is a clutch. It will bite and turn with the smallest of movements. You're not relying on finding the next tooth of a normal run of the mill ratchet gear if that makes sense. Working in the aviation industry i have found this tool has saved the day on more than one occasion. The one I have is a 1/4" drive and very short in length. Not sure exactly how long but lets just say its a lot shorter than a standard 1/4" drive Snapon ratchet i use. If you are looking for something that will shift particularly tight bolts or nuts then you'll have to think again to gain the advantage.
  9. Gordon C

    Engine weights

    Found this over on the Westie site http://westfield-world.com/engineandtransmission.html
  10. I too replaced a rather sleepy std xflow starter with the Pinto starter motor that Stridey and Johnathan mention above http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271765788262 Delighted with the performance of the thing. Engine spools up beautifully. To add to it it all its even lighter than the original motor by about a kilo. All in all a great value starter that packs a real punch
  11. Yep loose connector here too throws up exactly the same condition from time to time. Reconnect the connector and its all back to normal again. Whilst we here talking Ctek, I've often wondered what's going on when you switch between Snow Flake Mode & the Normal mode.......Anyone care to enlighten me ?
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