Gordon C

No longer available. Picked up. Thank you Nigel

Been some years since I had my axle assy out of the car. When I did I had the car supported on a trolley. This enabled me to roll the car forward or side ways should I need it. The axle was supported by axle stands. With the bolts removed the axle just sat very nicely on the stands. All very easy even single handed.

Clear out ! Lowflying Magazines. Years 2000 to 2007 All very good condition. The odd one or two missing. FREE to anyone that cares to collect from Lightwater, Surrey area. M3 Jct 3. Please message me if you are interested. Thanks all

If you think a mapped Weber Alpha ECU for a xflow would be of help give me a shout. I have one sat around that is mapped for a 1700 xflow on Alpha TB's (40's) Nothing wrong with it. Replaced this with an Emerald ECU when i had the flow rebuilt a few years back.

I have used both Hylomar and an RTV type silicone, preferring the later. In this case > Wurth Super RTV Silicone as my choice sealent. My preferred gasket is the competition gasket http://www.burtonpower.com/competition-sump-gasket-set-ford-x-flow-ohv-kent-711m-bda-fp713kc.html Don't over torque the sump bolts. Any deformity of the pan will lead to a leak. The last time i had the pan off i ended out with a small weep. Thinking it was the fwd banana seal i did it all over again only to find out it was the crankshaft seal. Nice easy fix, just a shame i didn't notice the thing leaking in the first place.....Doh !

I said exactly the same when i was pointed to this earlier today. GJT, I'm sure we use the one and the same fella for our engines. Good enough for me

Engine oils and ZDDP Might be of interest to you ? http://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-performance/443674-zinc-myth-test-data-dozen-more-oils.html

Clive missed this one....Yep power steering Gordon

Mazda MX5 1.8 Litre….SOLD

Without seeing the sort of access and space you have its difficult to advise or know exactly what you're looking for. People have spoken about extensions and universal sockets. All have there place and day. Not seen mentioned here ring ratchets. You'll get these in straight format or with off set / bent ends. Ideal for confined spaces provided you have the swing radially. Reasonable quality for the home workshop use is the Halfords pro range. Nice fine ratchets on these unlike some of the cheap crap you get from the far east. Another thought is the clutch ratchet. I've had one from Britool tools for years. Although i call it a ratchet strictly speaking it isn't. What you have here is a clutch. It will bite and turn with the smallest of movements. You're not relying on finding the next tooth of a normal run of the mill ratchet gear if that makes sense. Working in the aviation industry i have found this tool has saved the day on more than one occasion. The one I have is a 1/4" drive and very short in length. Not sure exactly how long but lets just say its a lot shorter than a standard 1/4" drive Snapon ratchet i use. If you are looking for something that will shift particularly tight bolts or nuts then you'll have to think again to gain the advantage.

Found this over on the Westie site http://westfield-world.com/engineandtransmission.html

Deleted 14/06/17

I too replaced a rather sleepy std xflow starter with the Pinto starter motor that Stridey and Johnathan mention above http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271765788262 Delighted with the performance of the thing. Engine spools up beautifully. To add to it it all its even lighter than the original motor by about a kilo. All in all a great value starter that packs a real punch

Yep loose connector here too throws up exactly the same condition from time to time. Reconnect the connector and its all back to normal again. Whilst we here talking Ctek, I've often wondered what's going on when you switch between Snow Flake Mode & the Normal mode.......Anyone care to enlighten me ?

Like so many i too considered replacing the flow with a Zetec engine a while back however for me there is something very special about a well tuned xflow.........The simplicity, the noise and indeed the history is what did it for me. Following much research and many questions asked it was 2011 i eventually settled on a Ratrace / Protune rebuild creation. All this is hooked up to Weber Alpha TB's and Emerald K6 ECU. Loads of torque, Loads of power, Loads of wonderful noise and above all tis pretty dam economical too thanks to the 3 way switchable map system. Certainly returns 30 to 35 mph in its eco mode. Other than adjusting the valves once in a while and the usual oil changes theres nowt to them. Solid reliable engines. So reliable and so well thought of today that they are now supplying brand new Kent 711 engine blocks. As has already been said parts are fairly easy to get hold of however prices can be on the high side. Now that there seems to be renewed interest in the Ford Kent xflow engines again it seems the asking prices these days for a well tuned engine commands a very high price indeed. These engines could well be most sort after in the future if they aren't already Love my Flow

BRG & Yellow stripe driving into Ullswater at 1600hrs. today (3rd June). Fabulous day for it

Got to ask whats the difference between the two switches above....Typo error perhaps ?

Ellie, yep all scrupulously cleaned. Handy working in the aviation industry dont you know Sealant used Wurth RTV Silicon.

Its not the MOT that concerns me but the Brands Hatch track day in a few weeks time. Cant be leaving oil on the circuit now can we

Elie, that was my thoughts although i'm not convinced just yet I've taken the crank pulley off this afternoon and now gone back to my original thinking that it may well be the sump banana seal at the front. There was no cause for concern regards wear between the seal and the crank. No, when i removed the pulley i could see what i thought was a drip running between the two flanges of the pan and the timing cover. Times ticking and Brands is just a few weeks away what with the need of an MOT before then as well and limited time to strip it all down again i have plumbed for what i hope to be a quick fix but it aint going to be pretty. Degreased the lot and applied brush fulls of sealant to the flange surfaces and beyond. Not exactly ideal but i'm hoping as i build up a few layers over the next few nights it may well hold out. Time will tell.

Nigel, Thanks. I'm now pretty sure that this is the Crankshaft seal after another static run this morning. Watching closely with a mirror placed on the floor a small weep appeared particularly when at higher RPM levels. Not so sure the crankshaft will be worn to be honest as this engine was rebuilt back in 2011 to a very nice spec All i expect to see here is perhaps a shadow mark where the seal runs on the shaft. Tis worth a closer look all the same. I know the life of something all comes down to usage......however was wondering though what a typical life of such a seal might be ? The only other thing that has changed in recent times is I upgraded to a different oil catch can. Rather than running a 1 liter washer bottle type of can with oil lines (2off) just dropping into the top i now have replaced it with an 2 liter OBP can. Still two lines going in but this time made more secure by the means of jubilee clips. Third connection is the breather which now has a tiny filter to hopefully eliminate the fine oil mist i had before. With this new catch can set up is it possible for the oil system to now be running at a slightly higher pressure and perhaps pushing the crankshaft seal out a bit thus allowing oil to pass at the higher RPM's ?

Thanks Oliver, I have ordered a cover gasket as well just in case Re the puller i did find this. Reviews and Youtube footage seems to suggest its a handy bit of kit. I recon with a little care i could get the seal back in without taking the whole lot apart. I'll see on the day what i think

I've had the sump off twice to try and cure an annoying leak at the front end. Thinking it was the front banana seal that was the culprit i buttered up with ample jointing silicon without going mad only to find today i still have a leak. I'm now thinking it could be the crankshaft seal. To remove the oil seal the Haynes manual suggests using a puller to aid removal. Any recommendations for a suitable puller ? Do i really need a puller or could i get it out by other means ? Anyway can anyone can point me in the direction of a compact puller should i need it ? With a Brands track day just a few weeks away this does need sorting sooner rather than later

Yes saw the photos of the auto test last night. Looks like it was a great turn out despite the drizzly day Doug