Gordon C

Baz, thanks. Forgot about these guys. Email sent

I have the smallest of oil weeps from the end plate on my xflow oil pump ! I'm after an internal oil seal.......anyone know the part number of said seal ? Looked through the Burton catalogue but can't see anything for looking. High Pressure Pump p/n FP201A by the way

Std 7" lamp i have a 3mm hex on mine

Johnathan, can't see any mention of bolt size in the manual i'm affraid. Just mentions torque figures

As per Haynes Manual Clutch pressure plate.......13 to 15 lbft

Annoyingly my gear knob used to work loose as well. Top of gear lever had seen better days so cutting a thread wasn't an option. I went down the route of drilling and tapping some small Allen type grub screws around lower part of the knob and partly drilling into the gear lever. Zero chance of the gear knob now working loose or at worse coming off. Sleeve supplied with gear knob slides and screws over the top of grub screws so you would never know they where there

And i have a Ratrace creation.......runs beatifully on Millers CTV 20w 50 compitition oil semi synthetic. Add a shot of Camshield ZDDP for good measure

Linky

Kumho Tyres Worth a look How much

weather

Quoting 7 wonders of the world: A 6" rim will happily seat a 185/60x13 on the front with an 8" taking a 205/60x13 at the rear Graham, the way i read that is.......... 6" will happily take 185/60/13 & 8" will happily take 205/60/13

Roger, thank you. Thought you where go to say that 7 Wonders, sump pan appears to be in good shape however worth a tickle if need be. Thanks.

Well i was beginning to think i was missing something. Split plate yes All the bolts accounted for and easily removable with the tooling i have. Thanks guys Roger, thanks. competition gaskets it is One last thing.....How would you recommend assembly of competition seals ? a) Dry b) Jointing compound ie Hylomar c) Light film of engine oil I thank you

Looking in the latest Burton catalogue i see there are two oil sump gasket sets mentioned for a 1970 xflow onwards What appears to be the standard sump gasket set if you like comprises of rubber end seals...retail £7.75 and a second gasket set as per the above design but made of competition material...retail £11.75 Question....what is the material used that now makes this 2nd seal a competition seal ? Designed to cope with the increased engine temperatures of a competition engine i guess ? And another question / observation My xflow a Ratrace build is weeping oil oh so slightly from the sump area. They all do that you say. Well mine didn't and although i am in no hurry to take the sump off i will do it over the winter period Now then, unless i am missing something here i have counted 18 bolts that hold the sump on. 9 on the right & 9 on the left running front to back. Everyone of which by the way i can get to easily with the tooling i have available. Release all 18 bolts and sump drops out right ? Reason i ask is i read in a previous 2007 thread that the oil pick up prevented the sump from dropping down and said pick was then removed in this instance to enable removal of sump Really ? Am i missing something here ? Am i over simplifying the job ? Having got a copy of a Haynes manual, Fords Kent xflow engine rebuild and tuning book and a few magazine cuttings from way back this all appears pretty straight forward to me. oooooor am i really missing something ? Thoughts if you please

Quoting Aeroscreens: You need one of these Never had a problem since i changed over to the CBS switch. That said have now taken original switch apart and cleaned with a switch lub. Works beautifully on the bench. Hoping never to use it again mind

Wheel bearing kit please Thanks.

07 FUN spotted just gone four this afternoon

Following me into Chailey village in my girlfriend's red MX5 around 16:00 hrs a Blue with white stripe

Use a hilok fastener from the aviation industry and you will be able to carry out full adjustment of mirrors without removing stanchion assembly or drilling scuttle to access back of bolts. Hiloks in this case are counter sunk heads with 1/16" allen key drive in the tip to stop rotation Used a 10-32UNF bihex nut to complete assembly. Used what we call a repair washer underneath nut to take up the csk in Brooklands mount. Not really needed but as an aircraft engineer I am probably fussier than most Hilok fastener explained

Seen with the corner of my eye BRG ( i think ) twin yellow stripes at 1730 heading towards Crooked Billet

Cheque posted, email received. See you at Brands

Try greasing up your prop shaft universal joint. Probably isn't but worth doing all the same to eliminate that.

I ditched the cork style gasket some years ago for the one supplied by James Whiting. Not so much as a weep out the rocker cover. Can be used many times over

Go on then i will take the half doors if you please

Can't keep up with you Craig. 45's one minute Jenveys the next Interesting all the same. And are we having switchable maps ?