elie boone
-
Posts
6,202 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by elie boone
-
If the bolt would brake out of the tube in an accident you be dead for sure, i never did say you have to do the bolt up so much that you crush the tube there is no need for that as the forces are more torsional. A incorrect placed shoulder strap can do much more harm the a new fixing point in a non std place without bush.
-
I would use 2 and drill a new hole the other side of the popper that is close to 3 towards 2. just use a long bolt and nut for the new position of the shoulder strap.
-
I don't know much of the inside of the black box but if the indicators don't switch off reliable could that be something to do with the time the switch is operated ? fast or slow operation of the switch or resistance ?. Finally found a illuminated toggle switch but i think it will not flash with the indicator relay even if you connect the indicator warning light to ACC https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Illuminated-Toggle-Switch-30A-SPST-12V-Green-LED-SCI-R13-423L2-/113638955920
-
What about the Weber look alike throttle body's, they have the injectors underneath if those would clear the diagonal.
-
I thought that the original switch had the warning light into them and not in the tacho. If your warning lights are in the tacho then it might work if you just operate your new switch manually like a spring return switch.
-
L66TEY, your problem is that you want to swap a spring return switch with a non return switch, your original switch has 4 connections, i didn't measure them but my guess is that 2 are for the activation of the indicator relay and 2 for the warning light. the only way i can see this working is with a spring loaded switch and separated warning light and this for each side. Or .......................use your new switch but with all new wiring for the indicator circuit and that includes a new relais.
-
The switch you have placed on your dash is just a ON-OFF switch, the third connector is to illuminate the switch light, unless you want a switch for the lh indicator and a separate switch for the rh indicators on the rh side of your steering wheel. otherwise you need one of these https://uk.farnell.com/nkk-switches/m2113tcfw01/toggle-switch-1pole-bi-col-led/dp/1187775 this is a ON-OFF-ON where the center connection is you + feed. Now a toggle switch has a smaller dia hole in the dash than that amber one so you would need a washer to compensate.
-
B O the ARB was made by Midas Metalcraft ( long gone since ) i just can't say how much it was over a std arb and i had to provide a detail drawing with all dimensions.
-
You forgot option 4 : have a purpose build ARB that goes round the rad fan.
-
I have made a remote sender line myself, the main difference is that i used a banjo on the oil filter housing to keep it as high as possible from the road. One note of warning, remote also means that on first start up from cold it takes a tad longer before the gauge goes into action and the oil pressure light goes out.
-
If you put the wire from the OP sensor direct to the earth and the gauge is stable at max pressure than the OP sensor needs replacing, if the needle still flickers then the gauge needs replacing.
-
If you talk about weight reduction, compare the original DD tube to the latest DD tubes.
-
Once up a time there was a recces in the alloy so that the bolt could pass without a problem ( 1990 ish )
-
The roll bar connects to a gusset welded to the vertical bar in the boot, not std equipment on an S2 so you will have to copy the Caterham set up.
-
First bleed the caliper closest to the master cylinder first bleed the inner side of the caliper until there is fluid coming out of it the do the outer side until there is fluid coming out of it then go back to the inner one and bleed until there is no air coming out of it next do the same with the outer one.
-
I would consider a bearing that moves in his housing a problem, but i am no expert.
-
The other day i had to use an wrench on the hexagon part of the tool to get the piston going and i did bent the small bar on the tool so difficult it was to wind back the piston, so far it was the most difficult one i have ever done. The best one's are 30 years old OEM Ford calipers and 20 years old master brake cylinders. I guess it all comes down to quality control and that is one thing another is finding another manufactory for small batches if needed.
-
5.6 kg for an exhaust is not light, my all SS can weighs just under 5 kg that's because the outer skin is 0.8mm ! on a cold winters day i can warm my hands on the rear of the can without shedding some skin.
-
I guess that at the front you would need something like the Miniator center cap to clear the center nut.
-
I think that the std exhaust with Cat inside may be too long to fit behind the 4 into 1 exhaust system of the R 300/R400. However you could shorten the can with the cat fixed into the front so that it may fit behind the long 4 into 1. For the std exhaust system ( 4 into 1 inside the body ) i modified a few silencers with cat so that they could be taken off and replaced with an other silencer without Cat.
-
Rather than using a bolt which has to be M6 to squeeze the rivnut i would try to use a spacer and a vice, in the worst case you might need to clean up the tread.
-
Could it be the gearlever ball joint that has a lack of grease ? you can't reach it from the underside unless you have very little hands but if you undo the gear knob and pull the gaiter out you can about just fit the grease gun head trough the top of the gaiter to grease the ball joint. this would save to take the tunnel out.
-
If it's a steel rivnut just a spotweld would be enough to fix it.
-
Old style VDO gauges as used in Caterhams are hard to find. I think the VDO Vision Cockpit has the same style bezel but an orange pointer, but they have black bezel not chrome. if you really need the white pointer and chrome ring then maybe VDO could be persuaded to sell the pointer and ring only and have it fitted by someone who restores gauges
-
Yes the LRS110 is pre engaged, the inertial type can't match the performance of the new breed of starters, give your starter a good clean and see what that gives. To swap to an pre engaged system can be done on a budget with new starter and ring gear or expensive with new light flywheel, clutch assembly and starter motor.