elie boone
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Everything posted by elie boone
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Found this 40 + hp for 50 gbp too good to be true ? https://www.tuning-wizard.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44&products_id=759 you could ask a question direct at Suzuki sport https://www.suzukisport-racing.com/english/sales/cappuccino/list/index.html
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The fly wheel on e-bay does look rather scruffy, also measure carefully as the flat flywheel does use a different CRB from memory the same as the K series.
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You can have the Hi-Spec 4 pot calipers for solid rotors or for vented rotors, i think they just as a spacer. The best balance i achieved is with a std master cyl and Hi-Spec 4 pots front ( vented rotor ) and 2 pots rear all on the same pad size. that was on a par with front Alcon calipers and 9" drum brakes on a pedal box set up.
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You can buy a light steel "pot" type flywheel, if i am correct the pressure plate is flat and thus less prone to cracks. I bought it from an engine specialist in Holland.
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200 bhp is possible, you should search the Japanese sites, problem is that not many are in English. maybe some Japanese member can help you out with this.
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The toffey wheels doesn't produce too much heat, you don't have to push it hard ether it sort of rolls off the glue and in the same process you loose a tiny bit of material from the toffey.
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If you have deep pockets you could plumb in dry break couplings. that will make it really easy to replace the alternator belt.
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i use it to get the glue from the balancing weight off the wheels, it's common used in bodyshops to remove the glue from labels and logo's
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Caterham doesn't state that the ride height and rake should be set with anyone in the 7. If you do 2 turns up ( linear springs ) on the drivers side ( courtesy of freestyle ) compared to the other side you are really close in diagonals with a driver in the 7 if you put it on scales. I always sit in the 7 when i check the display as you can't replicate the human body with a bag of sand.
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The 7 i build with Hi-Spec all round uses the std master brake cylinder. you can have Hi-Spec front brakes with vented rotor, it's about 85ish for the rotor and 75 ish for the alloy bell, you will need vented rotors on the short and twisted tracks if you have more than +/- 150 bhp. I could dig up the part numbers for both parts.
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Ride height and rake is set without driver or co-driver, corner weights are mostly done with driver with or without co-driver
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If you wind up all 4 platforms equally it should be ok. For the best road holding and brake performance you will need to have it flat floored set up but then it only will be at it's best the way it's set up, i.e. for you as a driver only or for you and with a passenger of a certain weight.
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Did you get it sorted ?
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There isn't much wrong at first glance, are all the fingers on the pressure plate in the same plane i.e. if you place the fingers on a flat surface does the pressure ring of the pressure plate is also level ? i just would have liked to see a bit more grease inside the CRB.
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I am sure that the MOD has some 2 K putto to repair this. Just need to find some.
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Fifth that, and on top of that the brake feel with 4 pots om std front disc's are much better. And there front vented disc's is much cheaper even with the first purchase of the alloy bell.
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Wanted - Lumenition Optronic Ignition chopper
elie boone replied to Englishmaninwales's topic in For Sale
Most X Flows and BDA's have the 45D dizzy they are only 20 quid from Merlin here is the 23D https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/lucas-22d-23d-25d-4-6-cylinder-lumenition-optronic-fitting-kit-lum-fk116 If someone ever need a trigger wheel for a 45D and for a 6 cylinder i have one FOC -
RJ, yes it is many thanks.
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As per topic, i am after a manual for the XJ 40 Jag, especially the part that covers the rear hub to dismantle the hub, bearing and handbrake.
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The plastic speedo drive can be taken out as it sits in an angle of about 45 degrees, BUT be care full as you place it back in the gearbox because it can be placed next to it's guide and then it's a real fiddle to get it back out of the gearbox, feeding a screwdiver or 3mm wire from the other side is good to pilot you trough the right angle.and on top of that all this can be done on axle stands. Also i did heat up a screwdriver and bent the tip 45 degrees to make it less difficult to pop off the top cover.
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Yes you can, to make life a bit easier unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the gearbox mounts so you can slide the box from side to side making more room to work.
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Picture of the speedo sensor at the front wheel. this is an unshielded sensor that should be 8.5mm from the bolt but it needed a little bit closer than that before the telltale lights come on.
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If you crank the engine do you have a strong spark at the coil ? if yes do you have the same strong spark at the spark plug ?
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I may know someone that could be interested.
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Or the balance between carb's could be way off IF it has fuel and correct ign timing. This winter i did some work on a Tiger 6 with a X Flow, initially i just needed to make a new remote gearlever, the guy swore it drove up the trailer but in the end i replaced all 4 mishab, there where no end washers and nuts on the Webers i changed the dizzy as the gear was badly worn, replaced the Lumenition trigger wheel as i could rotate it more than 5 degrees !! the central carbon in the dizzy had no spring action anymore and i changed the clutch as i couldn't engage gear because a few fingers on the pressure plate where off on top of that the diff sounded like a bag of nails, turns out someone changed the ratio without proper adjustment
