elie boone
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Everything posted by elie boone
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K7VCT, can you do a link can't find a complete steering lock.
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Thanks Ian, as nothing moves these day's i will just wait a bit and hope a complete comes round if not i will order the Defender one.
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Wanted for a friend an ignition barrel, other complete with key or just the electrical switch, it's for a X Flow and must be able to post to Belgium
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If you think that a Escort MK2 cap is to big have a look at some Classic mini caps. Am i correct in thinking that you have the old master cylinder with 3 brale lines connected ?
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Maybe best to take the starter off and clean the rotor and carbon with brake clean, if it still cranck slow invest in a Lucar LRS110 1.4kw much cheaper than all those special starters and just as good https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-0-FORD-PINTO-LIGHTWEIGHT-UPRATED-STARTER-MOTOR-LRS00543-LRS00109-LRS00110/273796747058?hash=item3fbf8ecf32:g:a~YAAOSw8
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Didn't they always use a 2.0ltr water pump if the engine is longitudinal ? from memory the 1.8ltr waterpump turns the wrong direction.
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Didn't they always use a 2.0ltr water pump if the engine is longitudinal ? from memory the 1.8ltr waterpump turns the wrong direction.
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If you have a top filler you can vacuum the oil out, talk about oil ATF is also fine and gives a better gear change from cold.
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The one from a Ford Escort MK2 should fit, that is without float.
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7WOTH flat slides have indeed the same characteristics as roller barrels but takes much less space leaving more room for a cold air feed.
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GL4 only spec gear oil ( which is a mineral gearoil )
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The problem i have is that Bilstein UK knows the part but it's not listed in the parts catalog. Bilstein will only post it to a dealer witch in term has to post it to me, the can't even give me a official price, i should pay what the dealer demands for it. The part in question Are the rubber bushes (E4-B36-55A ) but they are for a Live Axle witch are different from a De Dion
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Anyone know a Bilstein dealer that works with Bilstein UK ? i need a part that is not listed by Bilstein but is known to Bilstein UK.
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A flat slide throttle body would be smaller leaving more space for the air box and a possible cold air intake but i am not aware of these flat slides exist for the Duratec engine.
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The minimum is to use a filler with fibers if the wing is not broken, (if it is cracked then i use Sikaflex to glue the wing together) i would start sanding with a 150 the a 500 and finish with a 800 for a solid colour and a 1000 for a pearl, if done properly and in a decent spray boot there is no need to cut and buf the paint.
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Engine design hasn't changed for over a 100 years, manufacturing however has changed significantly since computers aid the manufacturing.
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The original wiring is that a white wire goes to the + or no 30 side of the coil, white/black goes tot he - or no 15 side of the coil, on this - side there will be 2 wires, 1 for the dizzy and 1 for the tacho. with the new distributor there should be a wiring diagram that will tell you what to connect where. BTW didn't the old Lucas amplifier had 3 wires coming out of the dizzy ? i would not cut the old loom but open it to see what you can delete and what u can reuse.
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I guess that your new radiator fan sits in front of the radiator, i would not use both fans ( front and back ) at the same time as they might disturb airflow trough the radiator. Using ty wraps to secure a rad fan is not a good idea if it would be a permanent fix. but a picture say more than a thousand words and for the gasket : just buy a sheet of gasket paper and make your own gasket.
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I am sure that Vulcan or Wilcox and a few others i forget can build you a singing and dancing X Flow. The compression ratio is only part of the picture, the hight of the head gasket also has an influence on the CR. And it needs to work together with the valve timing, carburetion and the ignition advance curve. Just my 2p
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Why not go to Aldon for the dizzy they know Caterhams quite well and have a better advance curve.
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It already exist in the technical guides.
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One can explain a method of work in a text it's always the reader who interpret what has been written. It's not the first time one explains something on the phone and then have the reply it doesn't work only if you show how it needs to be done they say ah right that is how it's done not to speak of eventually complications. To work on a caterham some tools are modified or only a specific socket makes the job easy like for the level plug on a Ford diff on a Dedion.
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From memory a K series has the rad outlets at the same position as the X flow, i would stick with the copper rad as this accepts a little bit more flex but you should mount both tension free.
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Correct Bricol, this is eaxactly the reason why a Wiki won't work. If the propshaft would be too long on a DeDion it would destroy the propshaft seal on the gearbox tail and in an extreme case would damage the seal housing.
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That is about the play what you need for a Live axle so i can't see why it shouldn't work.