A simple solution to secure the pin is a metal plate between the damper support body and the wishbone pin, 1 side you knock downwards the other side upwards. I understand a car manufactor prefer to use Loctite as there is no washer one can forget to add as the Loctite comes with the bolt but there is no need to use it on a Caterham.
It was a serious Q, if they indeed work loose why didn't they also alter the design of the pin ? and talk about the pin if excessive heat was used for sure the metallurgical capacities have changed.
In the end i didn't use the mesh i bought from the link in the OP as it's too flexible, i did find some locally that was rigid, it's bolted and glued in place now.
i would bring the cat side of the exhaust closer to the skin to make the angle less important with the collector,you may have to ditch the front support to do this, the down side will be that the rear of the silencer will be further from the side skin.
The 5 speed support sits a bit further in the chassis tunnel easily fixed with an additional plate from the original mounting. By gear change extension you mean a raised pivot point ? New clutch assembly Angle drive Speedo cable tunnel top cover Propshaft
Just measure the distance between gearbox and diff flange and a decent shop will make you a new propshaft. They will need to know what gearbox and the dia of the diff flange. BTW 1985 should have an Ital axle if factory build.
I have to admit i am not familiar with the 620 primary cooling set up but what if the primary circuit would only heat up the oil cooler ? so to connect the metal tube behind the thermostat to the oil cooler and going from there to the cylinder head outlet that way you would have a cooling flow in the engine and a more steady rise and fall in cooling temp when the main circuit opens but then one can't use the ali. thermostat housing with the big hole in it.
I would start and disconnect the fuel pump, and make sure the suction line is free without blockage, you should be able to blow the line trough by mouth. if that is ok i would test your fuel pump if it delivers what it should and if that is ok test the pressure fuel line there is no blockage by disconnecting the carb and see how much fuel is coming thru.
Maybe a combo of things, like a sticky throttle cable but the bowl of the filter king should be full so it could also be a problem of venting the tank ?
It's worth to check your Sierra caliper carrier as they do worn, it's only 1 of the holes that is worn each side. the holes in the new carriers are 0,2 mm bigger than the pin ( pins do not wear ) but i replaced a carrier that had 0,6mm play
Nick, your longer studs would not have saved you loosing a wheel, it would have take a bit longer and you may have feeld a wobble hat's all. When the paint gives away where the nut is seated your wheel nuts are effectively loose.
LRS 110 works very good on a X Flow https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-0-FORD-PINTO-LIGHTWEIGHT-UPRATED-STARTER-MOTOR-LRS00543-LRS00109-LRS00110/273796747058?hash=item3fbf8ecf32:g:a~YAAOS for the alternator https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-65A-ALTERNATOR-FOR-FORD-ESCORT-1-1-1-3-1-4-1-6-DRA0760-77FB10300GA-9AR2700G/153532763959?fits=Car+Mak
Yes radiator protection edit to say that i bought this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133325623488 thanks to K7 VCT his hint as i didn't thought of looking at serpent defense