DaveMorris

From memory - Live Axle - mounting plate by damper - flat plate. De-dion - mounting plate by damper - has a "cotton bobbin" shaped lump on the bottom of the plate which fits into the recess in the chassis.

To give you an idea of how many to make - I'll state an interest in one from the next production run, Dave

It depends on a/. starting condition, and b/. what finish you want to achieve I've been working through the following - to see how much work is involved, and see what finish I end up with. Information gleaned from various threads on blatchat + some metal finishers. This on a new, alu clad chassis. Initial work - to get rid of the grain :- Wet/dry - working thru the grades Wire wool + lubricating oil Trizact Pads (3M) - working thru the grades. Polishes :- Belgom Alu Mothers MAg and Alu polish Brasso Trizact Pads, down to P3000. Worn Trizact P3000 pad with one of the above polishes on it. As a result of the above, the new bodywork is currently a mix of many different finishes. My current preferred option is to use p240/p360 trizact pads to ensure all scratches are removed, then work through Trizact pad grades all way to P3000, then use Belgom Alu manually. (If you don't start rough and work down, you tend to find that scratches which were not initially visible, become visible as the finish gets more shiny). Needs lots of cloths on the final polishing (and Vienna Lime [not Alum !!] to remove the black residue). If you only have a small area to do then you would probably be o.k. with fine, oiled wire wool then Belgom Alu. Forget teh Alum and just keep wiping the black goo off the surface regularly and before it has time to dry. Can be removed with thinners, and the thiners can be used as the lubricant on the wire wool aswell. Based on reading historical threads on Polishing Aluminium - you will get approx 15 more replies - all with different preferences 😬 Dave Edited by - DaveMorris on 4 Oct 2012 11:41:46

Feedback so farfrom my potter friend :- None that she knows of, but she did say that she's not been on the lookout - however, she did ask me what sort are you looking for. Electric or Pedal type, Hobby type or more "industrial". She has lots of contacts around the country, so should be able to give you some good guidance. If you want I can put you in touch - she's happy to let me blatmail you her phone number, Dave

If you don't need certification with it - then one option is to go talk to your local dentist, find out who maintains their autoclaves, and then go talk to them. They may point you in th edirection of one which is being "retired" as no longer certifiable. ALternatively keep searching on e-bay. It's surprising what comes up. BUT - if you do need certification then be careful, manufactureres aren't too keen on people picking up cheap second hand claves that they have not refurbished/supplied/made a good profit from. They will sting you for a service, a thorough check and then certification. Can be upwards of £300 for this.

I've e-mailed a potter friend of mine. If she's organised enough to read her e-mails in the next week or so I'll get back to you.

IIRC the van axles were the 4.11:1 ones (but I could be wrong), Dave

You just can't help yourself can you 😬. Any interest in x'flow project ??

Interested in the fuel lines - can you BM me some idea of how much you'd want (+ length of each bit 😬) tx, Dave

Mine only makes a lot of noise either when the tank is empty , or when priming the carbs. I had one fail - but it just stopped dead.

I have an old style (pre 97 ?) wiper rack with the 9" spacing between spindles. I am looking to convert to teh later style 12/13" spacing. Assuming that the same motor and drive "wire" fit in both the old and new racks - can either a/. the old one be modified or b/. can the 13" spaced one be purchased seperately ? I presume that the reason Caterham changed spacings was to improve swept area on the screen. How much better is the 13" spaced swept area vs. the 9" ? (i.e. - is it worth me going to all the hassle ?) t.i.a., Dave

A number of people have used this company and had no issues. I am sure that if you had wheels to have powdercoated you would use someone else. Let us know who they are. People might be able to find some unsavoury facts about them somewhere on the 'net !

There is definitely a trick to it - I managed to get some to stay put about 3 years ago. .. ...... ........ can't remember for the life of me what I did though (truthfully I can't). If teh memory comes flooding back then I'll let you know. D

I have found on previous threads that the old single bonnet stripe is 140mm wide, but could anyone measure the combined width of the new twin stripe, and the width of the inner pin-stripe for me, t.i.a. Dave

Doug, I thought that you'd mis-posted initially when you said "INSIDE" the engine - but no. I'm sure you've read around this topic, but for me it appears that the main reason for applying this stuff is to aid drainage of oil back to the sump, and reduce oil spray around the crank. I'd say that a/. unless you prep the block for it correctly it may peel off - and anything getting in the oil passaged can't be good, and b/. there is no point in putting in the paint on water galleries as it can only reduce heat transfer. Your call, but I don't think that I'd be doing this myself. Could you not polish the casting and get the same effect ? Dave

Is any form of mastic or sealant used between the side faces and main bent structure of the pedal-box/passenger footwell pieces when rivetting these together ? Dave Edited by - DaveMorris on 11 Aug 2012 21:22:43

I've got some rims in the garage - and the rate at which the powdercoating is coming off I reckon that by March next year they'll be ready for re-coating without any stripping required ☹️

Gordon, managed to get in touch this morning - unfortunately he now has all that he needed (only got them last week as it happens - and paid this sort of money for a lot less kit ). Thanks for holding them for me. So items are still available. Dave

Gordon - could I please put a "1st dibs" on these, subject to calling a mate who I know is after some more weber stuff. (Obviously, I can't get in touch with him today when I really want/need to !!), Dave

Re the washers - many people get spacers machined which are the correct width for THEIR CAR to save the faff with multiple washers. The reason for multiple washers in the first place is to ensure correct centering of the diff - and each chassis can be very slightly different. Dave

Paul, that's great. Will now make my own. Now off to find an aluminium cotton bobbin 😬 Dave

My advice for a R/R session is to get there, discuss what you are looking for with the experts, and then walk away .. . minimum 1mile away, so that you don't hear what happens next. Note the lack of smiley or I couldn't stand next to my car whilst it was on the rollers. Too stressful. Maternity ward was an absolute cynch by comparison.

Caterham appear to sell two types :- this here and this one - here Neither of which look like the ones I have seen which angle the throttle cable down at ~45degrees. Any idea which one I should use for a crossflow engines seven? and are the angled ones a "home made" mod ? t.i.a. Dave

Andy is also making a new, oversize, tank for me. Basically - call the guy, discuss what you want, he will make it for you, and at a reasonable price. Dave

Anthony(M) - I don't think that you were getting 2, or even 4 wheel turns per prop turn As stated by others above above - it's the other way around. Number of prop turns per one rev of the rear wheel. Try putting one wheel on the ground so it can't move, turn the other wheel around 1 full revolution and see how many times the prop goes around. This will (IIRC) be twice the ratio of the CWP set. Dave