DaveMorris

Unfortunately I don't think that Steve is currently making these axles, as he's going through a re-designing phase. As a result my rebuild will probably start life being heavily overbreaked at the front. (though with my current rate of progress on the re-build,Steve may well get his redesign done WAY before I'm anywhere near ready for the road), D

Oliver - plan to use Jenvey, tapered 45-40mm TB's. Not sure yet whether to use an MBE 967 that I have in the cupboard or go for an Emerald K6. Brian - there's no real logic to it. It is not to provide more power, better economy, be more dirveable, or to fill in "flat spots". It is very much HEART not HEAD desire to inject the old x-flow, same heart thing that means I will NOT put a Ford Axle in the back of it, but will probably end up fitting one of the SPC axles. Conversely, I DON'T want to inject the Vx - because I want it to remain relatively close to original spec (though this wish may change with time). Dave.

Giles : "does this mean the rest of the car is back together" - oh how I laughed. 😬 So current recommendation is " a more modern equivalent of the bosch cream injector". Dave.

For those who have injected their crossflows - I may be posting a few questions on here in the coming months. First one - did you use the Bosch cream injectors (0280 150 744). Capacity seems to be correct. Or are these too long, forcing use of the shorter Pico injector. (For those who have already decided that my actions are not rational i.e. "Injecting a crossflow" - I agree with you. But I'm still gonna do it) Dave (Edited to spell "Crossflow" correctly ) Edited by - DaveMorris on 22 Apr 2012 10:39:30

I assume you've remembered the one from the o/s engine mount chassis end to the block. THe battery earth on mine is also to bellhousing bolt. Dave

Paul, y.h.m., Dave

PAul, if you can wait until next time I make it to a NW meet, and you'll throw in a pint of ale, then I'll take them. I'm finding some shelves in the garage which aren't completely full - which just can't be allowed. Dave.

Super. Thanks. And for those who may need this information in the future here's a few keywords Boot Ital Depth Measurement Dimension

5 weeks ago I spent ~6 hours looking for this rod. Part of a re-build I'm SLOWLY going through. Couldn't find it. After posting last night I had a sudden moment - and today looked in one of my bags of fishing gear - seems I'd put it there "to keep it safe". At this rate the rebuild will be a few hundred hours real work and 2-3 man years of looking for the bits I put "somewhere safe" when I stripped the car 6 years ago (since which time we've moved house). All sorted now, Dave

Can anyone with a standard boot floor on a live/Ital axled car please measure depth of boot and post here for me (and others in the future). I've tried searching - but failed to find the dimensions. My De-Dion measures 234mm from top edge of rear panel to the plywood boot floor - but I know that Ital boots are quite a bit shallower. Thanks, Dave.

As it says in title. I have an axle, under-dash handbrake assembly etc, but appear to be missing the threaded metal bar that links the nearside to offside brake drums. Anyone got one spare after changing to Ford Axle, or rear discs ? Dave. Edited by - DaveMorris on 18 Apr 2012 19:49:38

Thanks Zak. Have blatmailed you Dave

First dibs on car cover please. I'm gonna be travelling for next few days - but if you blatmail me contact and payment information I can ask SWMBO to the honours for me, Dave

Paul, I've got the range I think. Full Square Cut Semi-helical SPC and Square cut with SPC Semihelical 5th. The semi-helical is not far off same noise as a normal box. Nice and quiet. ppossibly worth exploring is the last one of the three - this gives you best of both worlds really - 1,2,3 are noisy , but 4th (being straight through) and 5th being semi-helical mean that 40mph+ is nice and quiet. Worth talking to Steve about this gear-set (which I think is his own design), Dave

Paul, if you're not now sorted by Mr. Aero, then I have a set of matched 40's that are superfluous to my requirements. Probably mid 90's manufacture and "Made in Spain". Can you let me know if these are not of interest and I will post as "For Sale" elsewhere. Can't help on the rocker cover I'm afraid, regards, Dave

Datatool Turn Alert - discontinued.

AAaaarrrgghhhhhhh I have not even been drinking.

Quoting DaveMorris: Will, give me a call on Oswestry 01691 xxxxxxxx(home No. given in Blatmail ) and we can discuss this. I have one that you could use as a pattern, I have a few bits that are a P.I.T.A. to have fabbed up in small numbers and I also have a couple of drop legs and the clamps which you would need ot make up a rack. I also have some "rough" plans from which these can be made - for different models. As Nick alluded in the Tyre Rack thread last year I was travelling quite a lot last year - and this year is, if anything, worse. So I won't be arranging any mass production. (To be honest last time was a real p.i.t.a. with all the different variants and only resulted in ~£100 going to LRF. They're not the easiest of things to wrap up and ship either ). Looking forward to hearing from you, Dave O.K. - so I pressed the wrong button Edited by - DaveMorris on 10 Mar 2012 20:23:43

Will, give me a call on 01691 and we can discuss this. I have one that you could use as a pattern, I have a few bits that are a P.I.T.A. to have fabbed up in small numbers and I also have a couple of drop legs and the clamps which you would need ot make up a rack. I also have some "rough" plans from which these can be made - for different models. As Nick alluded in the Tyre Rack thread last year I was travelling quite a lot last year - and this year is, if anything, worse. So I won't be arranging any mass production. (To be honest last time was a real p.i.t.a. with all the different variants and only resulted in ~£100 going to LRF. They're not the easiest of things to wrap up and ship either ). Looking forward to hearing from you, Dave Edited by - DaveMorris on 10 Mar 2012 20:23:23

This thread could get VERY long with satisfied customers of Steve.

Silly old me. Trying to be helpful. Assumed dry sumped. Oeps 😳 Not stated either way in original post - and I obviously guessed wrongly.

Jathro, if it is the aluminium plug in the breather hole, you can blind-drill this and then tap it, put in a bolt and pull it out (or prise it out as Roger says). I would recommend an alloy, dry sump rocker cover (from somewhere like Burtons) which has no filler cap, and is also easy to drill and tap for the hose unions. I've got a picture of the set-up that I could send to you if you blatmail me your e-mail address, Dave

Toby - might be worth taking "NoLimits" up on his offer - depends on how long he would need the original black ones for, and how long you could do without your hoses. Dave

I thought that SFS Performance did when I was looking a few months ago (though I was not looking specifically for a Sigma engined car so may be mistaken). I can't check at present as their site seems to be down. HOWEVER ring them up - their front man is VERY helpful. BUT .. .. don't forget to mention that you're a member and claim your discount, which I unfortunately did

I don't think that you'd want an oil catch tank attached to that breather point. Most that I have seen are attached using an alloy hose connector attached to the rocker cover. There is generally a pipe from the breather point that you are referring to, to the middle of the rocker cover (sort of between 2 and 3 cyls, pointing towards the air filters). The "vent" to the oil catch tank is normally taken from the rear of the rocker cover. I've seen pictures of the set-up in the past) so someone may post a link to one for you. If you have an alloy rocker cover these can be tapped and the connector screwed in, if tin rocker cover then you can drill a hole and use a thin nut on the inside of the rocker cover (make sure that the nut can't come off and do any damage). The straight connector is (I think) Ford part number 6148087 .. .. .. infact see here for more details, Dave