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DaveMorris

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Everything posted by DaveMorris

  1. Black. Minor storage marks (scuffs) - though only if you look closely. Not moved on a car since re-coated. £193 Prefer collection or Gonads, though I could probably arrange dellivery in UK (not incl. in price above). Dave
  2. Ned, I beleive that when threadlock is required the build manual will (should) say this. Torgue settings are provided and, I beleive, are on the basis that the bolt/nut are "free to move" other than for becoming tight. Basically can be done up with fingers and don't need spanners just to get to the "nipped" position. (obv. not true when using nylocs) As such the addition of coppaslip (or grease of whatever) is sort of "assumed". Dave
  3. Ideally looking for someone who has a Caterham with Ford (108mm) PCD at one end and ITal (95mm) PCD at the other. All rims are ET23. FInished completely in Satin Black (no polished rim). Part #'s KMN1360L4230BB and KMN1360K42363B. Paid ~£300 for the 4, since which time they have had a set of 70 profile 021r's fitted, been bolted to a rolling chassis, covered about 50yards in and out of the garage, then removed and warm stored. 021r's would be removed (unless the prospective purchaser wants to pay over the odds for a set of road legal 21r's of 2013/14 vintage with 50yards on the clock). Not wanting to split initially. May change my mind if no buyer comes forward. £225 for the rims only. Currently no pictures but that can easily be arranged. Dave
  4. Possible something to do with lowered floors and at 31.5 things are very tight. Dave
  5. Well, that was an hour well spent - NOT (as my kids would say). 3 different magnets tried, including one of those telescopic jobbies, and still not a clue. I know the boss is there - because I saw the chassis before it was clad. Smiffy - I will take you up on your generous offer (and if that fails I will cut off the front mount bracket from the exhaust system ). Dave.
  6. Unfortunately not now - as then I'd have two Found a source and agreed price yesterday would you believe (though a few hours before you posted). I would lock the thread - but I don't know how, Dave
  7. Smiffy, well done. I'm glad that you didn't remove the inner panel. I did on mine (and the lowered floow also) only to find that the front mount boss on my car does NOT NOT NOT go all the way thru the chassis rail. It is blind from the other side. I know that my boss is NOT 803mm from the rear one as I specifically requested Bruce, when he rebuilt the chassis, to put it in a different place. I have, of course, lost the paper/document where I wrote down the position. !!!! I am off to grab a fridge magnet immediately after finishing off this message - guess why :-) Dave
  8. DaveMorris

    Harnesses

    Ian, yes please. Will text you, Dave.
  9. Just going to resurrect this thread .. .. though I didn't know of its existence until about 2 minutes ago. Hope that I'm not treading on Vinnie's toes here. I have recently had 20 pairs of these brackets made, they are half way to being nylon coated as I type this. FInal costs won't be known until bill comes back from coaters - but the plan is a to fix a price per pair and then any surplus goes to NtL. Of the 20 pairs, 2 have already been sold (to me) so there will be 18 available. PLEASE don't post any interest on this thread. I will post something in "For Sale" and/or "Chit-Chat" when all details (including total production costs and shipping costs) are known. Dave
  10. THey are fine - I have done 4 floors + large amounts of re-panellng a car with one + lent out to various people. Still going strong. Dave
  11. Elie, if he is then could you let me know. In the meantime I will pursue some other options. Dave
  12. Paul, thanks for the heads-up on that one. Agree that the price seems a little high (That would make my tall FIA roll bar worth £500 (.. .. and it's not)). Dave.
  13. As per the title. Preferably in decent condition. Dave Thread closed - can't see another way to do this.
  14. I have what I think in the set-up you are installing - pressure cap on tank situated on bulkhead. 16mm hose from bottom of header tank to connection by the water pump. Then 8mm hose from connection at top of tank to connection by thermostat housing. I don't think that crossflows really need much in the way of bleeding - they seem to do it themselves. I just make sure that the radiator is competely full (top vent on rad-tec). I have pictures that I can send if you want them. Dave
  15. Why not leave it in there, and route the new one in through the dash at the back of the speedo/tacho gauges. D
  16. I fitted the CIbie H4's in Black with Osram Nightbreaker bulbs about 2 years ago (probably these bulbs are way outdated now) and the difference was massive. The change from lit to unlit zone is very marked and allows better/easier setting up. More "light on the road" and less "light in the sky" Got them from LAE Ltd (Lewisham Auto Electrics) who were the cheapest around at the time and recommended by other 7 owners. Peter and Arthur were the guys to talk to at the time. Will be fitting the same on a rebuild I am (slowly) working on, Dave
  17. Reasons for NOT having a "Q" as I see them are "kudos" and inability to put a "cherished plate" onto one. (Having said that - I've got a Q plate 1700 x-flow (not for sale) and have ended up putting a personal plate onto the Clio instead). "Q" platers have historically tended to be slightly sheaper for equivalent spec - as I am sure you already know. D
  18. SImon, as explained in mail, I was completely mistaken - the 40's left my garage a year or so ago during a "spring clean". Sorry for raising your hopes, Dave (This reminds me that I REALLY REALLY have to get an inventory of what I do have and what I no longer need)
  19. Simon, I definitely have a pair of 40's, c/w linkages that came off (and were jetted for) a 1700cc x-flow. Also pretty sure that I have the 244 cam that came out of the engine during its last re-build. I do not have inlet manifold though I'm afraid. Let me know if the above are of any interest. Dave.
  20. I have re-skinned my L.A. car. Got the new panels from Arch - and all the holes on the new panels were in the same place as the original panels. (Some minor "opening out" of some of teh holes on the Ali panel holes was required in some cases - but not many. Definitely no "second row" or "second set" of holes were needed to be drilled. (I had a few extra to drill for the lowered floors, but that's about it). Dave.
  21. Mark, would like to purchase this piece of kit from you - although it will need to be couriered as we're not that local to Horsham. Will send mail (assuming that works for me), Dave.
  22. Stupid question - but assume you have the larger (diameter) earth wire from the bellhousing bolt just above the starter motor to the battery earth terminal ? D.
  23. Finlay, I use the Valvolene Racing oil as already mentionbed above. Capacity will depend on how large your external tank is. Mine runs at ~6.5litres. The D/S tank will have a recommended level at which to be run - I think just above the top baffles/de-aerator section. Remember to check level when engine ticking over as you will get some drainback into the sump when the engine is standing. Dave
  24. Just to add to this thread - I had very similar conversion done by Dave, but I went for a change of hubs on the axle at the same time and converted to Ford PCD (to be same front and back). Added a bit to the price - but not as much as I might have expected. I only took the axle in to Dave - which means I have to shorten the handbrake cable myself, but that's not such a big job. I am still re-building the car, so no idea yet what it will all feel like in terms of balance - but I think that the rear disc set-up has more chance of getting in balance with the front AP's than the original drum/shoe set-up would have had. D
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